jenglish

I'm in Naples, Fl - car is black on black.... My air is ice cold! I mean freezing.

TimboIS

Just checked my '06 IS 350. Temp is 43C here today, and the AC is blowing 7C after 30 seconds.

firelikeiy

Try cleaning the condenser. Harbor Freight sells a telescoping air nozzle that works pretty good for it. Just blow air from the backside. Home Depot also sells a condenser coil cleaner for home a/c units but it works just as well on a car. It's a foaming spray that you let soak in and then wash off...just don't get it on your paint. I usually replace the condenser when I replace an a/c compressor because they are fairly cheap and it just makes your a/c work sooo much better. You can also try a foaming evaporator cleaner.

ISFPOWER

iTrader: (20)

go to a place that uses a proper machine to pulls full vacuum, adds in proper dye/refrigerant, and the tech uses a proper thermometer to make sure its cold like its suppose to be. the machine is also a leak pressure tester.

Gerb

Local shop quoted 150 - 200, to recharge A/C to make it cold again and make the passenger side blow cold air again instead of blasting hot air? Private mechanic. is that the average pricing.

Bichon

An A/C doesn't consume refrigerant in normal use, so if it's low on gas, there is a leak. A proper repair involves finding the leak (either with an electronic detector, or with refrigerant dye), repairing it, evacuating the system and pulling a deep vacuum, and then charging it.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

Brought it to the dealer, they recharged it and said if it gets low bring it back, but they cannot find any leaks. A month ago they did a recharge and changed the compressor/clutch, so he said it was possible someone didn't do the job correctly the first time.

cruzinZ

Common locations for the AC to leak is the high and low side connection points, any place there is a connection fitting and inside the cabin under the dash. If you have a slow leak you will be able to run a while with your AC functioning correctly. Best way to fix the leak is through a reputable automotive AC shop. Just about anybody can switch out parts but hunting down a leak and fixing the problem takes a little more skill.

When changing out a compressor all moisture/air should be removed from the system. The most common way to do this is to pull a vacuum on the system. Another way is to purge it with nitrogen.

Replace the receiver dryer every time the system is charged from scratch. If it's been opened up and a vacuum has been pulled on it be sure you have a new part as it's cheap.

When dealing with automotive AC systems going to a discount or 'cheap' shop will NOT save you money. Going to a shop that has knowledgable people will save you money in the long run. It's better to pay a little more and fix the problem the first time than to go back two or three times to burn a hole in your wallet. As for pricing it all depends on your location. In my hometown the wealthy part of town has typical high prices. The 'other' side of town can be shady but dirt cheap labor.

For the $200 what are you getting? Does that include refrigerant R-134? Receiver dryer? Pulling a vacuum on the system? If so how long? i would like to see it done on my vehicle for as long as possible..... Overnight would be best.

Are they going to put in die into the system to locate the source of the leak?

Bichon

I agree with most of what cruzinZ says, but strongly disagree that a nitrogen flush is sufficient before charging a system that has been open to the atmosphere. Nitrogen is great for leak testing, and flushing the lines with it is a great idea, but before charging it is essential that you pull a deep vacuum, and let the pump run for at least 30 minutes to boil off any residual moisture in the system.