Looking to Get Back Into a IS350, but have a few questions....
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Looking to Get Back Into a IS350, but have a few questions....
Hi everyone,
I had a SGM 2006 IS350 a few years ago and sold it, and now looking to get back into one.
The issue is my budget would only allow a 06-07 with higher miles (120k-150k),
What are issues should I be looking for when checking out IS350 with higher miles? (I've been reading that the transmission is a big problem)
What questions should i be asking the seller when inquiring about a car for sale?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks everyone!
I had a SGM 2006 IS350 a few years ago and sold it, and now looking to get back into one.
The issue is my budget would only allow a 06-07 with higher miles (120k-150k),
What are issues should I be looking for when checking out IS350 with higher miles? (I've been reading that the transmission is a big problem)
What questions should i be asking the seller when inquiring about a car for sale?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks everyone!
Last edited by integlspwr; 05-19-15 at 08:16 PM.
#6
Register the VIN on the Lexus website before purchasing to verify regular service history and to make sure recalls get done after your purchase if they haven't been done yet (VVT cam gear, valve springs, fuel delivery pipe, fuel pressure sensor gasket, wiper arm nut, trunk release lever, accelerator pedal, rear view mirror, sticky/marred dash and door panels).
Pay to have it professionally inspected by a third party before purchasing. Things that may need replaced at some point around that mileage include alternator, water pump (can check for leaks/pink crust around it with a dental mirror and they typically make a loud noise before failing completely, check Youtube for an example), spark plugs/other 120k services, nav screen freezing and needing repaired/replaced, shocks if not replaced yet, degraded windshield mouldings, squeaks/rattles in the dash or elsewhere. And there are some less common issues in the FAQ, such as airbag light, O2 sensors, radio turning itself off when going over bumps, wheel bearing, ignition coil, timing chain cover oil leak ($$$). I would definitely recommend finding a dealership with the adapter to change out the transmission fluid; mine was due to be replaced when I did it at 115k miles according to the Blackstone Labs analysis done afterwards, but YMMV based on the driving style of previous owner(s). Also changing out the diff fluid would be cheap insurance but maybe not necessary.
Pay to have it professionally inspected by a third party before purchasing. Things that may need replaced at some point around that mileage include alternator, water pump (can check for leaks/pink crust around it with a dental mirror and they typically make a loud noise before failing completely, check Youtube for an example), spark plugs/other 120k services, nav screen freezing and needing repaired/replaced, shocks if not replaced yet, degraded windshield mouldings, squeaks/rattles in the dash or elsewhere. And there are some less common issues in the FAQ, such as airbag light, O2 sensors, radio turning itself off when going over bumps, wheel bearing, ignition coil, timing chain cover oil leak ($$$). I would definitely recommend finding a dealership with the adapter to change out the transmission fluid; mine was due to be replaced when I did it at 115k miles according to the Blackstone Labs analysis done afterwards, but YMMV based on the driving style of previous owner(s). Also changing out the diff fluid would be cheap insurance but maybe not necessary.
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If your budget is already limited, how will you afford to fix the car when something goes wrong? Chances are that you will end up sinking some cash into the car sooner rather than later if you go the route you're taking.
My advice - If you have the means to do so, wait and save some additional cash so that you can purchase a newer, lower mileage 350.
My advice - If you have the means to do so, wait and save some additional cash so that you can purchase a newer, lower mileage 350.
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If your budget is already limited, how will you afford to fix the car when something goes wrong? Chances are that you will end up sinking some cash into the car sooner rather than later if you go the route you're taking.
My advice - If you have the means to do so, wait and save some additional cash so that you can purchase a newer, lower mileage 350.
My advice - If you have the means to do so, wait and save some additional cash so that you can purchase a newer, lower mileage 350.
Thank you for the response, any way to check this when looking at the car? does it need to go on a lift etc? where is it exactly i'm looking for in the engine bay.
Register the VIN on the Lexus website before purchasing to verify regular service history and to make sure recalls get done after your purchase if they haven't been done yet (VVT cam gear, valve springs, fuel delivery pipe, fuel pressure sensor gasket, wiper arm nut, trunk release lever, accelerator pedal, rear view mirror, sticky/marred dash and door panels).
Pay to have it professionally inspected by a third party before purchasing. Things that may need replaced at some point around that mileage include alternator, water pump (can check for leaks/pink crust around it with a dental mirror and they typically make a loud noise before failing completely, check Youtube for an example), spark plugs/other 120k services, nav screen freezing and needing repaired/replaced, shocks if not replaced yet, degraded windshield mouldings, squeaks/rattles in the dash or elsewhere. And there are some less common issues in the FAQ, such as airbag light, O2 sensors, radio turning itself off when going over bumps, wheel bearing, ignition coil, timing chain cover oil leak ($$$). I would definitely recommend finding a dealership with the adapter to change out the transmission fluid; mine was due to be replaced when I did it at 115k miles according to the Blackstone Labs analysis done afterwards, but YMMV based on the driving style of previous owner(s). Also changing out the diff fluid would be cheap insurance but maybe not necessary.
Pay to have it professionally inspected by a third party before purchasing. Things that may need replaced at some point around that mileage include alternator, water pump (can check for leaks/pink crust around it with a dental mirror and they typically make a loud noise before failing completely, check Youtube for an example), spark plugs/other 120k services, nav screen freezing and needing repaired/replaced, shocks if not replaced yet, degraded windshield mouldings, squeaks/rattles in the dash or elsewhere. And there are some less common issues in the FAQ, such as airbag light, O2 sensors, radio turning itself off when going over bumps, wheel bearing, ignition coil, timing chain cover oil leak ($$$). I would definitely recommend finding a dealership with the adapter to change out the transmission fluid; mine was due to be replaced when I did it at 115k miles according to the Blackstone Labs analysis done afterwards, but YMMV based on the driving style of previous owner(s). Also changing out the diff fluid would be cheap insurance but maybe not necessary.
#9
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andper10 covered everything.
The fuel pressure sensor gasket and dash/door panels are current recalls.
Watch out for the dashboard and door panels if they're soft to the touch and would likely get damage with your fingernails. There's a recall that is currently in its first phase.
The fuel pressure sensor gasket and dash/door panels are current recalls.
Watch out for the dashboard and door panels if they're soft to the touch and would likely get damage with your fingernails. There's a recall that is currently in its first phase.
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