Kalittle10

So, I bought a used 2009 IS 250 with 80,000 miles, the car is in beautiful condition and runs perfect like it should. I drove it to work and at quit time got in and it didn't wanna start like it had a dead battery. So I got a boost and after about 15 attempts I became suspicious but she started. I drove home and turn the car off and immediately tried to start it again at the house to no end. It was three days before the car started. When it did I drove it to a Toyota dealership and they replaced the fob battery, pointless, so I sat up an appointment to take it in and have it tested. The car wouldn't start for a week and I missed the appointment, two appointments actually bc they always make them early and on days it rains. So I've tried everything, the only time the car will notice the chip in the key is when I remove the chip and touch it to the push start. But that doesn't matter, bc if the car isn't hot to the touch for a few hours it will not start. The gauges just flash and the Amber light in the push button just flashes about 8 times after a failed attempt to start. The ACC works and I've went over every fuse and relay.
I called Lexus and a guy that had worked for them for 17 years said he had never heard of this problem. The closest dealerships are nearly 200 miles from where I live and towing the car there seems ridiculous when the car starts it runs like it does with no other problems at all. Any help or insight into what this might be or a way to possibly fix this would be great. I would just like to know that I'm not the only owner that's had/having this problem. Thanks

VTsuckah

iTrader: (1)

Have your alternator tested.

pheonix72

iTrader: (6)

What do you mean by "went over every fuse and relay"? I think you might have issue with one of the relay. Do you have someone with similar car to swap out one relay at the time?

Sffd103

iTrader: (16)

Have the battery tested at an auto parts store also.

B16da9

iTrader: (7)

check for loose or corroded grounds, also check the battery terminals make sure they are in good condition and that you're able to tighten them down to the battery poles.

Kalittle10

I went through all three fuse boxes and all were good, I bought relays and swapped them out and but put the originals back bc that wasn't the problem bc the car will start. I took the battery and had it tested but haven't had the alternator checked. I went over the grounds and all looked well, I read a thread about a guys "accessory" battery going bad and he had similar problems but the only thing I can figure is when. The car is getting hot in the sun it's generating enough juice in the accessory battery to give it that initial kick when I push the button. Said it was a gel type battery made by interstate but I haven't had any luck finding it and don't know where to start looking on the car. Im kinda grasping at straws on this. Oh and does anyone know if I buy the push button start does it have to be programmed by the dealership or if I buy the key and the start button together if they are programmed to ech other and it's kind of a plug and play type of thing? Which if it's the accessory battery, if that's even a real thing, then none of that's gonna matter and I'm wasting my money on the start button and key anyway.

hirsch2is

Wiggle your steering wheel next time this happens. There is a tsb out for toyotas with push button that says the car won't start sometimes if the steering wheel is pressed against the steering wheel lock bar too hard. A lot of people unconsciously use their wheel as a handle when they get out of their car and cause this

hirsch2is

Oh and btw there is only one battery in this car. The post you were reading might have been referring to some sort of hybrid where they have two battery's. The other thing to look for if wiggling the wheel doesn't work is if the light in the switch flashes back at you after pushing it

carlos3366

i had similar situation with my 1996 oldsmobile head lights switch. it would work after a while. it had something to do with an electric grease inside the switch. I replaced it and problem solved. maybe you start switch is acting up.

Kalittle10

Ok, so I tried wiggling the steering wheel as I pushed the start button and it had no effect but after the first try the light in the push button flashed amber about 8 times. It has to be between the switch and the remote right?

hirsch2is

If the button lights up green when your foot is on the brake and then flashes Amber when you push it you probably have a button problem. If it's Amber or not lit up with foot on the brake then you most likely have a communication issue between the remote and the car

Kalittle10

So I took my car to the local toyota dealer and had it checked out and they said that all codes pointed to the ECM and that it was gonna have to be replaced for $1k, and then have the junction box checked to make sure that there aren't any more problems there. Is there any way for me to replace the ECM myself or is this one of those dealer only things?

hirsch2is

It's possible to do it yourself however they sometimes have to be programmed to your vin which requires a techstreAm. You can get techstream software online for your own laptop but I'm not sure if it's capable of doing this. And by the time it's all said and done you'd be payin about the same as you would pay the dealer. Most of that cost is the ECM itself they only charge about an hour labor to install and program usually