09 350 Tranny Fluid Change
07-26-14, 11:52 AM
#16
[QUOTE=mike33;8638779]
Mike I didn't measure, I just waited for the fluid to flow out of the recessed plug in the bottom of the drain pan. 2 plugs on bottom of drain pan: 1is the drain, the other is recessed and sits higher into the drain pan. When fluid pours out of the higher one, the tranny is full.
My guess? 2.5 to 3.o quarts.
Claus
My guess? 2.5 to 3.o quarts.
Claus
07-27-14, 04:26 PM
#19
Well, technically speaking... it would be every 100k miles you would change it since it's "World Standard" and has a use life of 100k miles. I'm not sure if shops would have a flushing machine to flush all the fluid out or not. If they don't, its just a drain and fill of the pan.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-analyzed.html
05-20-16, 09:47 AM
#20
Hate to bring this back.
Have an 06 IS350, from what I have read there is a DRAIN and REFILL bolt in the the earlier post:
I just drained and refilled and drained my 09 IS350 tranny just like I did on my wifes 06 GS300.
Fill hole is on drivers side 23mm under black plastic cover.
I read in the manual that it requires 1.8 QTS of World Standard WS Fluid. This statement in the manual confirms of the 1st statement above.
Have an 06 IS350, from what I have read there is a DRAIN and REFILL bolt in the the earlier post:
I just drained and refilled and drained my 09 IS350 tranny just like I did on my wifes 06 GS300.
Fill hole is on drivers side 23mm under black plastic cover.
I read in the manual that it requires 1.8 QTS of World Standard WS Fluid. This statement in the manual confirms of the 1st statement above.
Last edited by mandyfig; 05-20-16 at 09:58 AM.
05-20-16, 09:57 AM
#21
Here's the snip from the Manual, it does state that DRAIN and FILL is a process.
06-06-16, 07:10 AM
#22
Finally did my tranny drain and fill over the weekend. Thanks to the forerunners in the drain and fill of our trannies (the so called lifetime fluid WS).
Guess what I found out?
The tranny is identical to my 2008 Mazda MX-5 Miata Auto. 2 Drain holes and the fill opening using a 24 mm bolt. Except that Lexus put in a Cover to hide the fill hole (24mm). I recently purchased a long offset metric set (finally had a reason to buy it). In the Miata, I used a standard 15/16” socket which was tight but worked. The 24 mm worked flawlessly.
The Miata fluid was almost black when I did my 1st drain and fill and over the years of doing the 2 QT drain and fill, it finally turned reddish.
The 103K IS350 tranny oil had a cruddy looking very slightly red color, not translucent at all. The IS manual calls for 1.8, I used 2 Qts after it was all done, spilled crap all over (reminds me I need to get a new suck-fill tool, mine’s leaking after so mnay years of use) I waited for the fluid to start trickling out of the fill hole (as specified by Miata) to signal that the reservoir was full.
I did not see any residue (filings) on both the Drain and Check holes. Good indicator.
The hardest thing was to get the car on the ramp and raising the rear so you have the car level. When jacking the rear, make sure that you use a good location to raise the car (ask me why I strictly suggest that as you do not want to make the same mistake as I did).
Thanks to the original posts on this tranny drain and fill, lesson learned, if there is a fill hole, drain and fill can happen, as long as the recommended fluid is used. The failure mode is that people use alternative fluids and Toyota wants to prevent it.
I plan on doing a drain-fill after a few thousand miles. BTW the WS fluid is steep in price.
See pics:
Guess what I found out?
The tranny is identical to my 2008 Mazda MX-5 Miata Auto. 2 Drain holes and the fill opening using a 24 mm bolt. Except that Lexus put in a Cover to hide the fill hole (24mm). I recently purchased a long offset metric set (finally had a reason to buy it). In the Miata, I used a standard 15/16” socket which was tight but worked. The 24 mm worked flawlessly.
The Miata fluid was almost black when I did my 1st drain and fill and over the years of doing the 2 QT drain and fill, it finally turned reddish.
The 103K IS350 tranny oil had a cruddy looking very slightly red color, not translucent at all. The IS manual calls for 1.8, I used 2 Qts after it was all done, spilled crap all over (reminds me I need to get a new suck-fill tool, mine’s leaking after so mnay years of use) I waited for the fluid to start trickling out of the fill hole (as specified by Miata) to signal that the reservoir was full.
I did not see any residue (filings) on both the Drain and Check holes. Good indicator.
The hardest thing was to get the car on the ramp and raising the rear so you have the car level. When jacking the rear, make sure that you use a good location to raise the car (ask me why I strictly suggest that as you do not want to make the same mistake as I did).
Thanks to the original posts on this tranny drain and fill, lesson learned, if there is a fill hole, drain and fill can happen, as long as the recommended fluid is used. The failure mode is that people use alternative fluids and Toyota wants to prevent it.
I plan on doing a drain-fill after a few thousand miles. BTW the WS fluid is steep in price.
See pics:
06-06-16, 02:39 PM
#25
The 2 smaller holes on the underside of the tranny pan are the drain holes. One hole indicates it is a “check hole” which takes a HEX (I think a 6 mm or 8 mm) wrench. The drain hole is a 14 mm.
06-06-16, 05:49 PM
#26
Lexus Champion
06-10-16, 01:49 PM
#27
At 84k, I did a drain and fill on my 2008 IS250 awd. I know color doesn't mean everything, but the fluid that came out was darker than my 2006 GS300 with 20k more miles. Got 3.2 quarts and before the change, the car shifted ok, but not as smooth as when I got it at 59k. After the change, the car shifts significantly better, as did my GS after a drain a fill. If you don't do a full flush or don't have the tools to do it, I highly suggest a drain and fill.
06-10-16, 01:54 PM
#28
Drain and fill with the right fluid will only help with the shifting and the longevity of our trannies.
06-11-16, 07:20 AM
#30
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Did it roll back from the ramps....
Btw did u replace the filter....
Btw did u replace the filter....
Finally did my tranny drain and fill over the weekend. Thanks to the forerunners in the drain and fill of our trannies (the so called lifetime fluid WS).
Guess what I found out?
The tranny is identical to my 2008 Mazda MX-5 Miata Auto. 2 Drain holes and the fill opening using a 24 mm bolt. Except that Lexus put in a Cover to hide the fill hole (24mm). I recently purchased a long offset metric set (finally had a reason to buy it). In the Miata, I used a standard 15/16” socket which was tight but worked. The 24 mm worked flawlessly.
The Miata fluid was almost black when I did my 1st drain and fill and over the years of doing the 2 QT drain and fill, it finally turned reddish.
The 103K IS350 tranny oil had a cruddy looking very slightly red color, not translucent at all. The IS manual calls for 1.8, I used 2 Qts after it was all done, spilled crap all over (reminds me I need to get a new suck-fill tool, mine’s leaking after so mnay years of use) I waited for the fluid to start trickling out of the fill hole (as specified by Miata) to signal that the reservoir was full.
I did not see any residue (filings) on both the Drain and Check holes. Good indicator.
The hardest thing was to get the car on the ramp and raising the rear so you have the car level. When jacking the rear, make sure that you use a good location to raise the car (ask me why I strictly suggest that as you do not want to make the same mistake as I did).
Thanks to the original posts on this tranny drain and fill, lesson learned, if there is a fill hole, drain and fill can happen, as long as the recommended fluid is used. The failure mode is that people use alternative fluids and Toyota wants to prevent it.
I plan on doing a drain-fill after a few thousand miles. BTW the WS fluid is steep in price.
See pics:
Guess what I found out?
The tranny is identical to my 2008 Mazda MX-5 Miata Auto. 2 Drain holes and the fill opening using a 24 mm bolt. Except that Lexus put in a Cover to hide the fill hole (24mm). I recently purchased a long offset metric set (finally had a reason to buy it). In the Miata, I used a standard 15/16” socket which was tight but worked. The 24 mm worked flawlessly.
The Miata fluid was almost black when I did my 1st drain and fill and over the years of doing the 2 QT drain and fill, it finally turned reddish.
The 103K IS350 tranny oil had a cruddy looking very slightly red color, not translucent at all. The IS manual calls for 1.8, I used 2 Qts after it was all done, spilled crap all over (reminds me I need to get a new suck-fill tool, mine’s leaking after so mnay years of use) I waited for the fluid to start trickling out of the fill hole (as specified by Miata) to signal that the reservoir was full.
I did not see any residue (filings) on both the Drain and Check holes. Good indicator.
The hardest thing was to get the car on the ramp and raising the rear so you have the car level. When jacking the rear, make sure that you use a good location to raise the car (ask me why I strictly suggest that as you do not want to make the same mistake as I did).
Thanks to the original posts on this tranny drain and fill, lesson learned, if there is a fill hole, drain and fill can happen, as long as the recommended fluid is used. The failure mode is that people use alternative fluids and Toyota wants to prevent it.
I plan on doing a drain-fill after a few thousand miles. BTW the WS fluid is steep in price.
See pics: