Check VSC Light - need to replace transmission
#167
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (6)
So like many of you I had the VSC Check Engine Light on. Car drove normally and shifted normally. I went to the dealer and they recommended that could try a transmission flush. After the flush the check engine light came on one more time, but turned off and has not turned back on since. It was been a few thousands miles since the light came on. Now I have to make the decision to keep the car for a few more years or not. The car is rapidly approaching 150k miles and from my understanding the rated life Lexus transmission is only 150k. Has anyone decided to trade in their vehicle and how much of a hit did you take by trading it in?
#168
Driver School Candidate
I've noticed this issue seems to be mostly on the 250's. I have an '06 IS350 with 115,000 miles. My Lexus tech says it's common on the 250's but he's never had to replace a transmission on a 350, but it could be because 350's are much rarer out here. Has anyone had an issue with their 350 tranny? Just wondering if it's something I should be concerned with in the future, a $3000-5000 repair would be the end of the car I think for me.
#169
Lexus Champion
I've noticed this issue seems to be mostly on the 250's. I have an '06 IS350 with 115,000 miles. My Lexus tech says it's common on the 250's but he's never had to replace a transmission on a 350, but it could be because 350's are much rarer out here. Has anyone had an issue with their 350 tranny? Just wondering if it's something I should be concerned with in the future, a $3000-5000 repair would be the end of the car I think for me.
#170
Lexus Champion
So like many of you I had the VSC Check Engine Light on. Car drove normally and shifted normally. I went to the dealer and they recommended that could try a transmission flush. After the flush the check engine light came on one more time, but turned off and has not turned back on since. It was been a few thousands miles since the light came on. Now I have to make the decision to keep the car for a few more years or not. The car is rapidly approaching 150k miles and from my understanding the rated life Lexus transmission is only 150k. Has anyone decided to trade in their vehicle and how much of a hit did you take by trading it in?
#171
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2016
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I was driving in snow setting and when I came to a stop my car (IS350) dropped rpms and shot back up. once i turned the snow setting off i never had that problem again but about a week later my check VSC came on along w the engine light. Every once in a while it turns off but then comes back on a day later. Recently i turned snow back on and my car did the same thing w the drop in rpms. So could this be a loose wire of some sorts? I have no problem when I drive w/out snow setting besides the fact that my traction control is always off. Been driving like this for about 7,000 miles
#172
Well crap, was hoping to find this wasn't a major problem. ~115k on my 2006 is250. My car stuttered at a red light recently. When it turned green and i hit the gas, VSC Check Engine Light lit up and the car went into "limp" mode (the best i can describe) and allowed me to pull over. I turned the car off, turned it back on and all was normal.
Sounds like the tranny might go a bit down the road. I would have no problem replacing it as the car has been perfect for ~10 years, but it's only worth $8000 (recent lexus dealer estimate) and if i have to pay $5k for a tranny, well it's a no brainer to get rid of it. Ugh, decisions decisions...
Sounds like the tranny might go a bit down the road. I would have no problem replacing it as the car has been perfect for ~10 years, but it's only worth $8000 (recent lexus dealer estimate) and if i have to pay $5k for a tranny, well it's a no brainer to get rid of it. Ugh, decisions decisions...
Last edited by ABC; 05-30-16 at 01:36 PM.
#174
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Unfortunately, I'm now experiencing the same issues as many others on this post. I have a 2007 is250 with almost 124K miles. My vehicle just started stalling and shifting awkwardly in the lower gears, and the check engine, vsc and traction errors on my dash popped up. The OBD-II code came up as P2757: "Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off."
Reading thru this post, it appears that flushing the transmission fluid and changing the solenoids had mixed results... in some cases, more issues popped up for some members. Now, I'm on the fence whether I should first try to change the solenoid+flush as a less expensive fix or bite the bullet and change the transmission.
Anyone have any conclusive findings with flushing the transmission fluid and changing the solenoids?
Reading thru this post, it appears that flushing the transmission fluid and changing the solenoids had mixed results... in some cases, more issues popped up for some members. Now, I'm on the fence whether I should first try to change the solenoid+flush as a less expensive fix or bite the bullet and change the transmission.
Anyone have any conclusive findings with flushing the transmission fluid and changing the solenoids?
#175
Unfortunately, I'm now experiencing the same issues as many others on this post. I have a 2007 is250 with almost 124K miles. My vehicle just started stalling and shifting awkwardly in the lower gears, and the check engine, vsc and traction errors on my dash popped up. The OBD-II code came up as P2757: "Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off."
Reading thru this post, it appears that flushing the transmission fluid and changing the solenoids had mixed results... in some cases, more issues popped up for some members. Now, I'm on the fence whether I should first try to change the solenoid+flush as a less expensive fix or bite the bullet and change the transmission.
Anyone have any conclusive findings with flushing the transmission fluid and changing the solenoids?
Reading thru this post, it appears that flushing the transmission fluid and changing the solenoids had mixed results... in some cases, more issues popped up for some members. Now, I'm on the fence whether I should first try to change the solenoid+flush as a less expensive fix or bite the bullet and change the transmission.
Anyone have any conclusive findings with flushing the transmission fluid and changing the solenoids?
#176
Signs of Torque Converter Problems
It can be difficult to pin point a transmission problem as an issue with the torque converter but there are some tell tale signs you should be aware of. Symptoms of a bad torque converter include overheating, slipping, shuddering, dirty fluid, high stall speeds, or strange noises. On most occasions, the torque converter will not be the cause of the problem so don’t rush to any conclusions until you get your transmission checked out first.
Overheating – If you glance at your temperature gauge and it happens to be overheating, this could mean that your torque converter is malfunctioning. Overheating is probably the most common sign of torque converter problems, as a drop in fluid pressure will cause the transmission to overheat. It could also be a sign of low fluid levels or a malfunctioning solenoid, so check that first!
Transmission slipping – A problem with the torque converter will often show itself fairly quickly, as fluid cannot be managed correctly. If not enough or too much fluid is passed to the transmission, it can cause gears to slip and you will often feel a loss of acceleration. You might also notice a sudden drop in your car’s fuel economy. Low or ineffective fluid can also be the culprit, so you need to check the fluid first if you experience any slipping.
Shuddering – If you start to feel shudders when driving about 30 to 45 MPH, this could mean that you have torque converter problems on your hand. It will often feel like running over rough road or bumps and you will definitely notice it when it happens. Shuddering comes and goes without warning, so once you feel it the first time you should get your transmission checked out as soon as possible. Don’t wait for it to happen again.
Contaminants in fluid – If you check the fluid and there are large amounts of black material, it either means your transmission or the torque converter clutches are damaged. You should perform a fluid change first, run your car for a while, and check back again.
Increased stall speed – A bad torque converter will take the transmission longer to engage the engine, resulting in higher than normal stall speeds. You can do a stall speed test to diagnose for any torque converter problems, but you’ll need to know your torque converter and engine’s stall speed specifications first.
Strange sounds – Any foreign sounds such as clicking or a revving noise could indicate a bad torque converter.
It can be difficult to pin point a transmission problem as an issue with the torque converter but there are some tell tale signs you should be aware of. Symptoms of a bad torque converter include overheating, slipping, shuddering, dirty fluid, high stall speeds, or strange noises. On most occasions, the torque converter will not be the cause of the problem so don’t rush to any conclusions until you get your transmission checked out first.
Overheating – If you glance at your temperature gauge and it happens to be overheating, this could mean that your torque converter is malfunctioning. Overheating is probably the most common sign of torque converter problems, as a drop in fluid pressure will cause the transmission to overheat. It could also be a sign of low fluid levels or a malfunctioning solenoid, so check that first!
Transmission slipping – A problem with the torque converter will often show itself fairly quickly, as fluid cannot be managed correctly. If not enough or too much fluid is passed to the transmission, it can cause gears to slip and you will often feel a loss of acceleration. You might also notice a sudden drop in your car’s fuel economy. Low or ineffective fluid can also be the culprit, so you need to check the fluid first if you experience any slipping.
Shuddering – If you start to feel shudders when driving about 30 to 45 MPH, this could mean that you have torque converter problems on your hand. It will often feel like running over rough road or bumps and you will definitely notice it when it happens. Shuddering comes and goes without warning, so once you feel it the first time you should get your transmission checked out as soon as possible. Don’t wait for it to happen again.
Contaminants in fluid – If you check the fluid and there are large amounts of black material, it either means your transmission or the torque converter clutches are damaged. You should perform a fluid change first, run your car for a while, and check back again.
Increased stall speed – A bad torque converter will take the transmission longer to engage the engine, resulting in higher than normal stall speeds. You can do a stall speed test to diagnose for any torque converter problems, but you’ll need to know your torque converter and engine’s stall speed specifications first.
Strange sounds – Any foreign sounds such as clicking or a revving noise could indicate a bad torque converter.
#179
#180
lol i think you should change it at 100k. also the tranny fluid may not be the only factor which ****s up our transmission, although it probably contributes a lot to the problem