Spacers after my drop
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Spacers after my drop
So i Dropped my IS 250 on H&R Racing springs. From what I previously heard, I will need to roll my fenders if I were to get spacers. I was wondering:
What spacers do I need to buy to get a perfectly flush with the outside fender look?
Are spacers easy to DIY Install?
What are the cheapest spacers that I can buy that will get the job done?
Thank you!
What spacers do I need to buy to get a perfectly flush with the outside fender look?
Are spacers easy to DIY Install?
What are the cheapest spacers that I can buy that will get the job done?
Thank you!
#3
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I currently have 18 inch khumo ecsta's, but I am thinking about getting hankook v12's. my car is rwd
actual size is
Front: 225/40-18
Rear: 255/40-18
also, will spacers affect the performance/handling of the car at all? What kind did you all get to flush the tires, and did you have to roll your fenders?
actual size is
Front: 225/40-18
Rear: 255/40-18
also, will spacers affect the performance/handling of the car at all? What kind did you all get to flush the tires, and did you have to roll your fenders?
#6
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Why use 20 in the rear and 15 in the front? Is the spacing different in the front and rear, or did you just want the back to stick out farther?
Trending Topics
#9
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
that picture is basically what my setup will be. Did you have to roll your fenders to get the wheels to fit? what size are your tires?
#11
Lead Lap
iTrader: (12)
I once was on H&R springs Stock wheel and tire seat up and I actually rubbed a little bit on the rear so I went ahead and got them rolled. I went with H&R spacers also. Ichiba are very popular but I went with H&R since they are well known and its only 20-30 dollars more then Ichiba. I also suggest don't buy ones with built in studs. If you buy H&R, none will have build in studs till you go 25mm+
Installs is actually pretty straight forward, you will need to buy a threaded bolt to help pop off the rear disc brake/drum rotor.
Installs is actually pretty straight forward, you will need to buy a threaded bolt to help pop off the rear disc brake/drum rotor.
#12
Pole Position
iTrader: (4)
I once was on H&R springs Stock wheel and tire seat up and I actually rubbed a little bit on the rear so I went ahead and got them rolled. I went with H&R spacers also. Ichiba are very popular but I went with H&R since they are well known and its only 20-30 dollars more then Ichiba. I also suggest don't buy ones with built in studs. If you buy H&R, none will have build in studs till you go 25mm+
Installs is actually pretty straight forward, you will need to buy a threaded bolt to help pop off the rear disc brake/drum rotor.
Installs is actually pretty straight forward, you will need to buy a threaded bolt to help pop off the rear disc brake/drum rotor.
U dont need to pop off the rear disk drum or rotor to install wheel spacer . Everythings is bolt on , very easy instalation .i was on 20mm rear no rub & 15mm front no rub either . Full 4 passenger & bumpy road no rub or anything at all , clean . No fender roll at all .
#13
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
I believe there was a thread a while back about someone who had his Ichiba Spacers for a fairly short amount of time and they completely broke down while he was driving. Like laobo979 said, spacers aren't something you want to be cheap on.
Edit: here's the post
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...2-spacers.html
Edit: here's the post
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...2-spacers.html
Last edited by dyongg; 09-02-13 at 03:13 AM.
#14
Driver
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Ca
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the Ichiba V2 spacers as well but I went 15mm front and 22mm rear , wish I would have went 17mm in front. I have Eibach Pro kit springs with oem wheels and stock tires sizes, wish I would have went 235/40/18 in front. Check out my photo album. The studs that come on the Ichiba V2's are not as strong as the oem Lexus stock studs so they cannot be over torqued (76ft lbs on our cars) . Should never go over 80 ft Ibs as indicated in the Ichiba instruction manual. It's not that hard to over torque at 80ft Ibs with a tire iron,breaker bar or impact gun especially if you take your car to a tire or break shop. I always explain the situation about the spacers and insist on hand torqueing to 76ft Ibs exactly. As long as you keep the torque specs in check you won't have any problems with the Ichiba V2's. Or you could buy some ARP Racing wheel studs for the Ichiba spacers which have a very high tensile strength and never have to worry about it. That will set you back $150. There are a lot of people who run the Ichiba V2's the story/thread mentioned above is the only one I have heard of stud failure with the Ichibas V2's which was most likely due to over torquing. Installing the spacers was very easy and I have never had any vibrations or wobbling from the spacers.
Last edited by Meguerra; 09-02-13 at 06:14 AM.
#15
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I think I am going to get the 15mm in the front and 20 in the back, and install and see if it rubs, if no rub, then I am good to go. I think I will go with H&R also. Thank you all for the input on this!!