The1Ghost

iTrader: (5)

and remember to pull hard don't be afraid some strength is needed.

Hector2992

Finally got it...I didnt know the whole thing came out I was trying to remove just the white piece where the linkable fuse is mounted....but I got the fuses ordered and hopefully itll go back in a little easier than it came out lol

The1Ghost

iTrader: (5)

Sweet hopefully I helped some. and yes its easier to put back , you gonna be pissed cuz it takes like 10 min to put back

Hector2992

So did u have to buy the whole block ?

Hector2992

Looks like I'm gonna have to buy the whole fuse block lol lexus ftmfl

The1Ghost

iTrader: (5)

yes it's the whole block theres no way around it. look around though cuz you can get it for around $100 something unlike getting it from lexus.

Hector2992

Thanks for all the help it's definitely been a pita to remove and I guess I'll do a little internet searching for something a little cheaper...lexus wants $157 for the part so I guess it's not all that bad could be a lot worse..what scares me though is if anything ever happens again I'm gonna be doing this all over....

bobtal34

Hi. I did the same thing and I am in the process of removing the white fusible link. I have the clear cover off and the 10mm nut removed. Trying to disassemble all the fuse boxes (black & white) together. However, is there one of the black fuse boxes that needs to come out first? It seems like the small one on the left (perpendicular to white), might come out first (it seems to have only three tabs that I can get two undone at any one time). Is that right? Or do I work my way around the outside ? or from left to right? You are right, this is confusing.
I got the part from lexus for the same price, $157.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

According to the other posts it sounds like the other black blocks have to be removed first before the white block.

bobtal34

Thanks Gville. I finally got the whole thing out, all three blocks (2 black, 1 white) together. At first I didn't realize the cabling at one end really holds everything down in the box as a unit. Plus there is a single bolt that holds the small black block to the white one. Once I gave it some force and pulled up on the thick cable end, it all came out. Currently going through the process of disconnecting the cables and reconnecting to the new unit.

Coming along slow but sure. Should be done tonight.

Thanks for the great forum. All the info really helped!
Bob

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

While apart, post up some pics so we can all get an idea of what to look for in the future!

bobtal34

OK. Here are a few from when I was labeling the cables and connections.

bobtal34

And a few more

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

Oh gosh, those pics are hella small! LOL Thanks for the extra effort though.

V8Toyota

I made a similar mistake while replacing the pulley/tensioner. tapped the alternator ground with my wrench and went metal to metal, shot some sparks and blew the fusable link. ALWAYS DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY AND PAY ATTENTION TO TERMINAL + AND - SIDES LOL

Here are some tips. and what you need

(needle nose pliers or vise grips, 10mm & 8mm sockets, long thin flat head screw driver, fine tip sharpie)

remove the cover and remove the bolt inside the black cover, this holds the fusable link to a main cable (probably the alternator cable).

After that bolt is removed use some muscle and pull that cable out. Everything slides UP on this damned box lol.

once that is done you will still see a smaller wire running into the left side of the box on the underside and a fat group of cables on the right. at this time undo the bolts that hold the box to the fender but keep them near by.

after both bolts are out pull up on the box and flip it so you can CUT the ZIP TIE on the bottom right side of the box, be vary careful not to cut that cable. this will allow you some more freedom when it comes to moving things and basically flexing with all of your muscle to get this thing apart.

now that the wire is disconnected reattach the box to the fender with the two bolts. you'll understand why shorty.

now you will need needle nose pliers or something to pull up pieces of the fuse box.

there are 3 pieces (1 long black piece, a smaller black piece, and the white fusable link)

I pulled up on the smaller black piece with my pliars but as you do this you need to use your other hand to push the tabs inside the box holding the fuse pieces inwards or outwards depending which tab it is while constantly pulling up. once you get fuse pieces started and raised maybe half of an inch switch to the long black piece.

The long black piece must come out first. but you have to pry a white container on the bottom side of it off before it can be separated from the fusable link. once you pry the two white tabs off of it the long black fuse piece will separate and you can pull it out.

now undo those two fender bolts again and get the box out of your way. undo the bolt that holds the smaller black fuses to the fusable link and pull it up and away.

now you should have this rats nest of a fusable link and cables staring at you. I took pictures of both sides of the box incase i ever got mixed up or confused. I also used a fine tip sharpie to number each connection on BOTH fusable links and number each CABLE on the metal connection that corresponds. So you should be numbering or labeling 1. blown fusable link 2. cables attached with their corresponding label or number 3. the new fusable link

the back side facing the windshield is all 10mm, and the front is 8mm, undo them and then pull the connectors out last. the connectors were really hard to pull out. I had the screw driver pushing the tab in and pulling the cables (but be CAREFUL) you don't want to unpin anything .

reattach the connectors then the cables this helps keep the cables in place. also try to lay the fusable link flat YOU DONT WANT TO LOSE THESE BOLTS. I almost lost one, and you will not be happy. so just take your time reattaching everything.

then reattach the small black connector to the new fusable link by sliding it onto it and then bolting it in place. then attach the black long piece and the white case the holds the stray cables in place. I put it all together and then as a unit slid it back into the box. it is tricky as you have to make sure all the slides line up and everything locks/clicks in place. then reattach the alternator cable by pulling really hard and bolting it back into the box, bolt the fusable link down, and bolt the box back in place, close the cover.

NIGHTMARE OVER!!!! everything should work but my windows wouldn't at first, so just go test things and use the actual door controls for passenger doors if they don't work from the driver door, and they should work, fingers crossed. I'd say this took about 90 minutes because of the BS of trying to solve the puzzle. Doing it again I could finish in 30 minutes. hope this helps someone and sorry no pics I was too pissed off about my $130 mistake to bother with pics. You shouldn't really need them I went into pretty deep detail. lol

anyway cheers, and good luck