Does zero toe help with inner tread wall tire issue on the 2IS?
07-30-12, 03:39 PM
#16
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+1 on trying to run the tires at a higher psi. That was exactly what my alignment guy told me after my alignment when he aonly had to make minor adjustments eventhough I was getting inner tirewear in the front. I'm running 40 psi in front and so far so good on my new set of tires but I only have 2k on them so far so too early to tell.
07-30-12, 06:09 PM
#17
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Looks like you're alignment still needs to be tweaked since the camber is not in spec.
The place where I get my alignment done at, I have everything in spec for the IS I have for both RWD and AWD and the only wear I get is outer wear (scalloping and outer cupping). The tech said that is normal for this kind of suspension setup for the IS.
Interesting, my friend who owns an IS-F, didn't get an alignment yet and he's also getting outer wear as well.
The place where I get my alignment done at, I have everything in spec for the IS I have for both RWD and AWD and the only wear I get is outer wear (scalloping and outer cupping). The tech said that is normal for this kind of suspension setup for the IS.
Interesting, my friend who owns an IS-F, didn't get an alignment yet and he's also getting outer wear as well.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 07-30-12 at 06:13 PM.
07-30-12, 07:19 PM
#18
Outer wear is from too much toe in. AMHIK. I finally arrested the inner edge wear with 1/4" toe in at the front. Then the outer blocks started wearing fast and the car got squirrely under heavy braking. Scalloping and cupping are not at all normal for the 2IS or 3GS suspensions (they're all built with the same parts.) The only real solution for this problem is FIGS LCA bushings or not using the brakes at all. If you watch FIGS video, it's pretty obvious what the problem is, and if you read the threads in the IS F section on this, you'll see pretty quickly the problem is universal and not specifically alignment related. Also, this is intentionally designed this way by the factory.
The bushing is probably a good solution which I am thinking of doing to do (not sure since the other thread said 250 maybe not). Do you think I should a wait until I wear the stock tires before switching the bushing or get them now?
Did you also get the report yet? I guess in the other thread you said you were waiting for results.
07-31-12, 06:53 AM
#19
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FIGS hasn't put the spherical bearings in yet, so no word on how much the NVH increases. It will likely be substantial. Bushings are rubber for noise control. Take them out and the tire noise goes straight to the chassis. Fine for a race car, not so fine for a street car. But it's possible it won't be intolerable. That's the only question I have. I'm leaning toward the polyurethane bushings right now, and I'd like to get them in before I shred the Michelin PSS I just bought.
It is my sincere hope I can set the toe to 1/8" or 1/16" out and not have inner edge wear issues. With the reduced motion seen in FIGS's video, it might be possible.
It is my sincere hope I can set the toe to 1/8" or 1/16" out and not have inner edge wear issues. With the reduced motion seen in FIGS's video, it might be possible.
07-31-12, 08:18 PM
#20
lobuxracer,
Let us know the results. My concern is the road noise unless it's not really noticable.
Just curious, so with the factory bushings looking in the video, this looks like it can cause unpredicatable behavior in controlling the vehicle while going over crowns and ruts on the road then correct?
Let us know the results. My concern is the road noise unless it's not really noticable.
Just curious, so with the factory bushings looking in the video, this looks like it can cause unpredicatable behavior in controlling the vehicle while going over crowns and ruts on the road then correct?
08-01-12, 07:02 PM
#21
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lobuxracer,
Let us know the results. My concern is the road noise unless it's not really noticable.
Just curious, so with the factory bushings looking in the video, this looks like it can cause unpredicatable behavior in controlling the vehicle while going over crowns and ruts on the road then correct?
Let us know the results. My concern is the road noise unless it's not really noticable.
Just curious, so with the factory bushings looking in the video, this looks like it can cause unpredicatable behavior in controlling the vehicle while going over crowns and ruts on the road then correct?
08-02-12, 08:31 PM
#23
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From my understanding, camber does not affect the inner side wall, as long as it is under -2.5 degrees camber. But the toe is what causes the inner side wall to be bald in 15-20k
08-02-12, 10:20 PM
#25
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08-03-12, 12:20 PM
#27
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It all depends on how you drive. For me it's about 1/8" toe in with the stock bushings on my F.
08-06-12, 06:07 PM
#28
I managed to get to 32,500 miles before the outside blocks were worn down to 2/32" so I had to replace them. The insides were still showing wear on the extreme edge, but not as much as the outsides, so I don't think setting toe in is enough to arrest the inside edge wear from braking toe-out. IS-F toe spec is different though.
My car was also squirrely under heavy braking and the tires would scrub along the ground when turning at full lock.
Strangely, my car would also tramline severely, as in rip the steering wheel out of my hands and the car would deviate by a foot or two. I thought toe-out would encourage tramlining, but I had toe-in. Maybe the LCA bushing is so soft that the toe also changes when you hit a rut, even when you're not braking?
08-06-12, 06:31 PM
#29
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I experienced exactly this on my 250. I had 0.34 deg/4.25mm/ 1/6" total toe in. Spec on a 250 is negative 1mm toe out to 3mm toe in.
I managed to get to 32,500 miles before the outside blocks were worn down to 2/32" so I had to replace them. The insides were still showing wear on the extreme edge, but not as much as the outsides, so I don't think setting toe in is enough to arrest the inside edge wear from braking toe-out. IS-F toe spec is different though.
My car was also squirrely under heavy braking and the tires would scrub along the ground when turning at full lock.
Strangely, my car would also tramline severely, as in rip the steering wheel out of my hands and the car would deviate by a foot or two. I thought toe-out would encourage tramlining, but I had toe-in. Maybe the LCA bushing is so soft that the toe also changes when you hit a rut, even when you're not braking?
I managed to get to 32,500 miles before the outside blocks were worn down to 2/32" so I had to replace them. The insides were still showing wear on the extreme edge, but not as much as the outsides, so I don't think setting toe in is enough to arrest the inside edge wear from braking toe-out. IS-F toe spec is different though.
My car was also squirrely under heavy braking and the tires would scrub along the ground when turning at full lock.
Strangely, my car would also tramline severely, as in rip the steering wheel out of my hands and the car would deviate by a foot or two. I thought toe-out would encourage tramlining, but I had toe-in. Maybe the LCA bushing is so soft that the toe also changes when you hit a rut, even when you're not braking?
08-07-12, 12:32 AM
#30
+1 on trying to run the tires at a higher psi. That was exactly what my alignment guy told me after my alignment when he aonly had to make minor adjustments eventhough I was getting inner tirewear in the front. I'm running 40 psi in front and so far so good on my new set of tires but I only have 2k on them so far so too early to tell.
i do the same psi at 40 all around. so far so good 7k miles on them Michelin super sports..
i do notice the iinner isnt wearing out as much but now the middle is wearing much faster... i did this iwth the hankook evo and lasted about 25k which is expected in our cars..
if any one has longer lasting tires with zero toes please chime in..
..