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I am helping a friend do research on his engine swap, hoping someone here could help pinpoint things to check.
His car is a 2007 IS250, new engine is a low mileage unit from a 2014 IS250 (3IS). His mechanic is doing the swap and it has been done. Car starts fine, idles fine, would even drive fine until you give it a bit of throttle input and it would bog down and almost died, but no CEL. We are using old wiring harness, had moved the ignition filters from old engine, using old intake manifold (Australian 2IS did not come with cold start injector, but 3IS did), using high pressure pump from new engine. Service parts like ignition coils,O2 sensors, MAF sensor, spark plugs, radiators, in tank fuel pump all brand new OEM.
Mechanic is still diagnosing/testing but we really are stumped. We think there is a possibility that the is a sensor/sensors in the new engine might not want to play ball with 2IS ECU. From my research, seemed like it would be a plug and play swap.
According to our cross referencing, crank position sensor, cam position sensor, knock control sensor and camshaft position sensor are all interchangeable. The only thing that is not is the MAF sensor, he is still using a brand new one with part numbers for a 2IS.
TIA
Last edited by B_390_LU; 04-25-22 at 08:12 AM.
Reason: more info
Guessing one of your sensors is giving the ECU bad data. Suspect the knock sensor is pulling the ignition advance back.
This is from the phone App Torque Pro. $10 for app, $35 for an OBDII Elm327 Bluetooth reader.
Your mechanic needs this type of data.
I know it's an eye chart but it tells us what we can't see.
Originally Posted by 2013FSport
Look up and verify the knock sensor part numbers are the same for 2IS/3IS....
The mechanic has a high-tech OBD device. I think he had done such log and everything was on point but I would suggest your perimeters.
Knock sensor, crank position sensor,cam position sensor, camshaft position sensor are all same part numbers. We are using all those sensors from the new engine, from a perfectly working car with rear end body damage.
Another variable, the mechanic did a trans fluid flush before the swap was fully done. The same mechanic did another flush 3 years ago and was all good. Could improper flush or too much/too little fluid even remotely cause this issue?
The mechanic has a high-tech OBD device. I think he had done such log and everything was on point but I would suggest your perimeters.
Knock sensor, crank position sensor,cam position sensor, camshaft position sensor are all same part numbers. We are using all those sensors from the new engine, from a perfectly working car with rear end body damage.
Another variable, the mechanic did a trans fluid flush before the swap was fully done. The same mechanic did another flush 3 years ago and was all good. Could improper flush or too much/too little fluid even remotely cause this issue?
Pleas note, car is not throwing any CEL.
Can you get a cockpit video?
what was the prior engines failure mode? Any chance it plugged the cats or a rag is stuck in the intake / exhaust?
Plugged exhaust is a real stumper. They just won't rev or make any power.
There has to be a reset of the transmission and fuel adaptives to the ecu. Then ig it on off open door. Close door push start button twice foot not on gas so it says on again and allow car the sit like that for 10 seconds. Foot on brake and push the button again and allow to idle air on for 10 and air off 10 min. Go drive through all the gears normally not hard.
You are right on the money! So what happened was that his catalytics converter internals had disintegrated and actually blocked the exhaust pipes.
He bought the car cheap as is, so now he’s bringing it back to life starting with the engine swap.
Thank you for everyone who helped with suggestions, I will keep you updated if there is anymore issue down the line.
Thanks for the follow up. Good to hear what the real issue is!
I've seen it a few times and opened the exhaust via unbolting flanges (not a great option with cats in the headers), or removing o2 sensors. When plugged, that o2 hole will become a blow torch and sound like Jet engine under the car but it will rev to a point and make some power with the CEL on, to let your know you're on the right track (exhaust is plugged).
Beware driving them as the blast will burn anything it's pointed at.
Thanks for the follow up. Good to hear what the real issue is!
I've seen it a few times and opened the exhaust via unbolting flanges (not a great option with cats in the headers), or removing o2 sensors. When plugged, that o2 hole will become a blow torch and sound like Jet engine under the car but it will rev to a point and make some power with the CEL on, to let your know you're on the right track (exhaust is plugged).
Beware driving them as the blast will burn anything it's pointed at.
All the debris in the piping is all cleared now, one of the mufflers is blocked though. He has a nice Tanabe Medallion axle back, so mechanic will try to find a way to unclog it.
Any idea how to do this without cutting it open and re-weld?
All the debris in the piping is all cleared now, one of the mufflers is blocked though. He has a nice Tanabe Medallion axle back, so mechanic will try to find a way to unclog it.
Any idea how to do this without cutting it open and re-weld?
I think it's called the Hokey Pokey, take it off and shake it all about. See if you can get a leaf blower to it while holding it tips up.
Of course poking wires at it never hurts either...
04-25-22, 08:06 AM
4GR-FSE To 4GR-FSE Swap Issue
