Pics of my '06 IS250 with 2011MY headlights w/ LED Strip
05-12-11, 07:51 PM
#91
I had the Sewell kit installed last week and the flashing AFS light does not bother me as much as I thought it would. I'm thinking of trying to put a small black vinyl window cling over it before I have the dash taken apart.
I had a Lexus certified body shop install the lights and they had two issues. First, the light bracket that bolts to the bumper only lines up on 4 of the 6 screws. Second, they couldn't get the wires past the headlamp module without ruining the modules. I called Sewell and talked with Darrel, who then called the body shop. Only having 4 bolts hold the bumper is fine, so that was resolved. With the wires, Darrel said to cut them. But the body shop told me they wouldn't do that because it would result in corrosion. So after running the wires they replaced my headlamp modules with new ones (the old ones were ruined).
I am very pleased with the final result. Not only are the LEDs very bright, but the look of the new headlamps when the car is off is much nicer in my opinion than the older lights. I love the blacked out housing.
I had a Lexus certified body shop install the lights and they had two issues. First, the light bracket that bolts to the bumper only lines up on 4 of the 6 screws. Second, they couldn't get the wires past the headlamp module without ruining the modules. I called Sewell and talked with Darrel, who then called the body shop. Only having 4 bolts hold the bumper is fine, so that was resolved. With the wires, Darrel said to cut them. But the body shop told me they wouldn't do that because it would result in corrosion. So after running the wires they replaced my headlamp modules with new ones (the old ones were ruined).
I am very pleased with the final result. Not only are the LEDs very bright, but the look of the new headlamps when the car is off is much nicer in my opinion than the older lights. I love the blacked out housing.
05-13-11, 05:53 AM
#93
Pole Position
Thread Starter
As far as the bottom bumper bracket, if the old one is used only 2 of the 3 screw holes on each will line up. I believe this is due to the fact that the cap on the bottom of the headlight for the LED connection is now there and sticks out, so a newer bracket had to be designed for these lights. If you order the newer brackets made for the LED headlights they should fit no problem. I just used my old ones and cut around the part where the cap is so it'd fit.
Last edited by Thinktwice; 05-13-11 at 06:05 AM.
05-13-11, 06:07 PM
#95
What do you mean by this?
As far as the bottom bumper bracket, if the old one is used only 2 of the 3 screw holes on each will line up. I believe this is due to the fact that the cap on the bottom of the headlight for the LED connection is now there and sticks out, so a newer bracket had to be designed for these lights. If you order the newer brackets made for the LED headlights they should fit no problem. I just used my old ones and cut around the part where the cap is so it'd fit.
As far as the bottom bumper bracket, if the old one is used only 2 of the 3 screw holes on each will line up. I believe this is due to the fact that the cap on the bottom of the headlight for the LED connection is now there and sticks out, so a newer bracket had to be designed for these lights. If you order the newer brackets made for the LED headlights they should fit no problem. I just used my old ones and cut around the part where the cap is so it'd fit.
05-13-11, 06:12 PM
#96
Sorry if I was confusing. I don't know how this stuff works and was trying to say what the body shop told me. From what I understand, the headlamp module plug needed to come out of my old lights to fit on the 2011 lights. But the AFS module was in the way, so there was no way to pull it out without destroying it. The only solution was to get other modules and put them in the 2011 lights.
Again, Sewell said something about cutting wires to get the plug out and reattaching the wires. But the body shop would not do this because they said it would lead to corrosion and problems down the road. They said getting new modules was the only way to go.
Again, Sewell said something about cutting wires to get the plug out and reattaching the wires. But the body shop would not do this because they said it would lead to corrosion and problems down the road. They said getting new modules was the only way to go.
05-13-11, 06:29 PM
#97
Pole Position
Thread Starter
05-14-11, 09:15 AM
#99
Pole Position
Thread Starter
For anyone wishing to do this upgrade... the pics below will save you some time and frustration. This is the end result of how the wiring in the harness connector should look to get them to function.
Also, I forgot to mention that you'll need a 2011 (HID headlight version) relay flasher to get the turn signals to function correctly. If not, they will flash rapidly as if one of your signal bulbs blew since you're technically going from 2 bulbs in each side to only 1. With the new flasher, everything will work as normal, including arm/disarm flashes. The part is $60, part # 81980-06020. Hope this helps:
Also, I forgot to mention that you'll need a 2011 (HID headlight version) relay flasher to get the turn signals to function correctly. If not, they will flash rapidly as if one of your signal bulbs blew since you're technically going from 2 bulbs in each side to only 1. With the new flasher, everything will work as normal, including arm/disarm flashes. The part is $60, part # 81980-06020. Hope this helps:
I've been wondering for the past couple weeks why my LEDs didn't seem so bright. I've finally figured out that since the 2011 model has two different LED intensities with these headlights, one for parking lights and one for DRLs, I must've made a mistake and wired it to work as the parking lights (which is the intensity when the low beams are on with the 2011 models).
First off, I made a mistake, there is no wire splicing involved. Disregard what I did with the red wire. The only wire that needs to be relocated in the connector for the higher intensity LEDs is the green one (no stripes) needs to be in place of where I have the thinner black one in the photo, and that's it - plug n play. Extremely simple upgrade as it turns out.
Below is an example of the passenger side with the parking light intensity and the driver's side with the DRL intensity. So if you go into a dealership and just turn on the parking light of a 2011 model, all you're getting is the lower intensity parking light LED (aka dimmer LED). However, the DRL intensity LED is BRIGHT, as in Audi bright!
Last edited by Thinktwice; 06-06-11 at 02:18 PM.
05-14-11, 02:15 PM
#101
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You are right .. on the 2011, the LEDs are the DRLs. When i got my '11 IS 350, during the day, nothing else was on except the LEDs. Unless, the dealer disabled the DRL which i doubt. I dont think they would do that which makes me think that the LEDs are the DRLs.
05-14-11, 07:48 PM
#102
IMPORTANT note for anyone wanting to do this upgrade:
I've been wondering for the past couple weeks why my LEDs didn't seem so bright. I've finally figured out that since the 2011 model has two different LED intensities with these headlights, one for parking lights and one for DRLs, I must've made a mistake and wired it to work as the parking lights (which is the intensity when the low beams are on with the 2011 models).
First off, I made a mistake, there is no wire splicing involved. Disregard what I did with the red wire. The only wire that needs to be relocated for the higher intensity LEDs is the green one needs to be in place of the black one, and that's it, plug n play. Extremely simple upgrade as it turns out.
Below is an example of the passenger side with the parking light intensity and the driver's side with the DRL intensity. So if you go into a dealership and just turn on the parking light, all you're getting is the lower intensity parking light LED. The DRL intensity is BRIGHT, like Audi bright:
I've been wondering for the past couple weeks why my LEDs didn't seem so bright. I've finally figured out that since the 2011 model has two different LED intensities with these headlights, one for parking lights and one for DRLs, I must've made a mistake and wired it to work as the parking lights (which is the intensity when the low beams are on with the 2011 models).
First off, I made a mistake, there is no wire splicing involved. Disregard what I did with the red wire. The only wire that needs to be relocated for the higher intensity LEDs is the green one needs to be in place of the black one, and that's it, plug n play. Extremely simple upgrade as it turns out.
Below is an example of the passenger side with the parking light intensity and the driver's side with the DRL intensity. So if you go into a dealership and just turn on the parking light, all you're getting is the lower intensity parking light LED. The DRL intensity is BRIGHT, like Audi bright:
05-14-11, 08:30 PM
#103
looks amazing! #jealous!
05-15-11, 12:52 PM
#104
Pole Position
Thread Starter
sorry can you explain more clearly on this? so after you relocate the wire and now the leds is brighter, but do you still have to turn on one click to get them to turn on? and you rewire your red wire together? and just relocate the green and black wire? so now can you just the red wire to the low beam wire, so when you turn the low beam on the leds get dimmer just little? like parking on with 100% bright and low beam on 50% bright got dimmer?
05-15-11, 09:11 PM
#105
Yes, you still have to turn the parking lights on for the LEDs to turn on. The red wire I just left as is, but it'll still work without touching that wire. The green wire or black wire supply the power, but only one can be used at a time. I suppose in the 2011 model it just switches between the two. The only wire that needs to be relocated is the green wire if you want the brighter LEDs or the black wire if you want the dimmer LEDs, into the slot where I currently have the thinner black wire in the pic.