Pics of my '06 IS250 with 2011MY headlights w/ LED Strip
02-20-12, 06:10 PM
#392
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^ The smaller plug on the right only . Thread below has pics.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...afs-light.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...afs-light.html
02-20-12, 06:13 PM
#393
^ The smaller plug on the right only . Thread below has pics.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...afs-light.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...afs-light.html
02-20-12, 06:46 PM
#394
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There are WAY too many wires to be that easy...
Unplugging the smaller harness did solve the Flashing AFS OFF light..
But, you also just disabled the "AUTO LEVELING" feature of the HID projector..
I wonder which ECU Jeff has in his non AFS optioned IS..??
Jeff, since your IS was never AFS equipped, can you see what part number is sitting in yours??
I'm also curious if the Auto Leveling feature functions on your IS.. ?
The real answer might have to be inside a 2011 / 2012 IS... And what ECU part number is stting in there..
That might just SOLVE the issue once and for all..!!!
OR
If we can pull a pin or two out of that small connector that either is related to the AFS OFF function or anything that disables the flashing light... That will be a cheaper fix..
The problem is that harness plug & pinouts are very small and in a tight area.
Not even sure why the other thread was started in the IS-F forum...
Unfortunately, this was clearly not the fix..
Joe Z
Last edited by Joe Z; 02-21-12 at 07:19 AM.
02-20-12, 07:16 PM
#395
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Lol Joe. I guess I did move too fast.
I guess I'll leave it like this until I notice I miss the auto leveling feature or if someone finds a real way to fix this issue.
Thanks for the info Joe. As always, you give great info.
I guess I'll leave it like this until I notice I miss the auto leveling feature or if someone finds a real way to fix this issue.
Thanks for the info Joe. As always, you give great info.
02-20-12, 07:56 PM
#396
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Our goal is the find the real way to fix this... Otherwise the cheapest solution, will be tape on the inside of the cluster covering the LED. (not on top of the clear lens
)~ Joe Z
02-21-12, 07:31 AM
#399
My apologies for the confusion. My goal with the suggestion was only to stop the blinking AFS light. As the AFS ECU controls both the AFS and auto-leveling, it of course will disable both when you unplug it. I wasn't sure if auto-leveling was still functioning on cars with the blinking AFS light or not. If it is still working, unplugging the AFS ECU will also disable the auto-leveling.
I had hoped that the 2011+ leveling ECU had the same connectors as the 06-10 AFS ECU, but it doesn't. Really, you have 4 choices:
1. Live with the blinking light.
2. Disable the blinking light using black tape.
3. Unplug the AFS ECU, disabling both the blinking light and auto-leveling.
4. Obtain a 2011-12 leveling ECU and replace your AFS ECU with it. This isn't a simple swap as the connectors are different and a couple of wiring changes exist. The AFS ECU had a BEAN interface to the body ECU, while the Leveling ECU does not. The only thing this seems to really affect if you did this swap is that for some reason the 2011+ ECU gets an alternator signal (CHG-) from the body ECU, it only operates the leveling system when the engine is running, but that would need to be tapped in from somewhere else. It also expects a low beam signal from the body ECU for when the low beams are on (B2).
As far as I can tell, these are the parts you'd need to do option 4:
One ECU:
89960-53040 - ISx50 RWD Sedan Leveling ECU
89960-53050 - ISx50 AWD Sedan Leveling ECU
89960-53080 - IS F Leveling ECU
89960-53100 - ISx50C Leveling ECU
And:
90980-12422 - Leveling ECU Connector
82998-24290 - Leveling ECU Connector Terminals (Qty: 15)
On your new connector (90980-12422) you will do the following:
Pin 1: Ground, Take Pin 1 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 5: Speed SPDL, Take Pin 6 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 6: Speed SPDR, Take Pin 7 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 7: Low Beam Trigger, Using one of your new terminals, splice this into the red/white wire coming out of Pin 2 on 22-pin junction connector A33 (RH kick panel)
Pin 8: Alternator Charge Trigger, this should be +12V when the engine is running, 0V when the engine is off, ignition switch on. Not sure on a closer place to tap into, but you'll use one of your new terminals and tap into a wire with these characteristics. The easiest spot I can think of is the black/white wire going to the fuel pump resistor on the RH fender apron in the engine bay. (Alternatively, you could just tap this into Pin 1, and let it perform leveling even without the engine running).
Pin 9: RH Motor LR2-, Take Pin 16 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 10: RH Motor LR2+, Take Pin 15 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 11: RH Motor LR1-, Take Pin 14 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 12: RH Motor LR1+, Take Pin 13 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 14: +12V Power, Take Pin 2 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 16: Front Sensor SGF, Take Pin 17 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 17: Rear Sensor SGR, Take Pin 11 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 18: Front Sensor SHFL, Take Pin 2 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 19: Rear Sensor SHRL, Take Pin 9 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 20: Front Sensor SBF, Take Pin 1 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 21: Rear Sensor SBR, Take Pin 10 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 28: LH Motor LL2-, Take Pin 32 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 29: LH Motor LL2+, Take Pin 31 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 30: LH Motor LL1-, Take Pin 30 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 31:LH Motor LL1+, Take Pin 29 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
This is quite an involved process, but I think it should take care of everything and get it working just like the 2011-12's. It would have been nicer if both AFS ECU connectors used the same terminal type as the Leveling ECU connector, but only the smaller connector does. The larger AFS ECU connector uses an older style pin.
Not sure if anyone wants to try tackling this though. I mean if it was my car, I probably would, but it's an involved process for sure, especially when you can tape the light, haha.
Jeff
I had hoped that the 2011+ leveling ECU had the same connectors as the 06-10 AFS ECU, but it doesn't. Really, you have 4 choices:
1. Live with the blinking light.
2. Disable the blinking light using black tape.
3. Unplug the AFS ECU, disabling both the blinking light and auto-leveling.
4. Obtain a 2011-12 leveling ECU and replace your AFS ECU with it. This isn't a simple swap as the connectors are different and a couple of wiring changes exist. The AFS ECU had a BEAN interface to the body ECU, while the Leveling ECU does not. The only thing this seems to really affect if you did this swap is that for some reason the 2011+ ECU gets an alternator signal (CHG-) from the body ECU, it only operates the leveling system when the engine is running, but that would need to be tapped in from somewhere else. It also expects a low beam signal from the body ECU for when the low beams are on (B2).
As far as I can tell, these are the parts you'd need to do option 4:
One ECU:
89960-53040 - ISx50 RWD Sedan Leveling ECU
89960-53050 - ISx50 AWD Sedan Leveling ECU
89960-53080 - IS F Leveling ECU
89960-53100 - ISx50C Leveling ECU
And:
90980-12422 - Leveling ECU Connector
82998-24290 - Leveling ECU Connector Terminals (Qty: 15)
On your new connector (90980-12422) you will do the following:
Pin 1: Ground, Take Pin 1 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 5: Speed SPDL, Take Pin 6 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 6: Speed SPDR, Take Pin 7 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 7: Low Beam Trigger, Using one of your new terminals, splice this into the red/white wire coming out of Pin 2 on 22-pin junction connector A33 (RH kick panel)
Pin 8: Alternator Charge Trigger, this should be +12V when the engine is running, 0V when the engine is off, ignition switch on. Not sure on a closer place to tap into, but you'll use one of your new terminals and tap into a wire with these characteristics. The easiest spot I can think of is the black/white wire going to the fuel pump resistor on the RH fender apron in the engine bay. (Alternatively, you could just tap this into Pin 1, and let it perform leveling even without the engine running).
Pin 9: RH Motor LR2-, Take Pin 16 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 10: RH Motor LR2+, Take Pin 15 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 11: RH Motor LR1-, Take Pin 14 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 12: RH Motor LR1+, Take Pin 13 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 14: +12V Power, Take Pin 2 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 16: Front Sensor SGF, Take Pin 17 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 17: Rear Sensor SGR, Take Pin 11 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 18: Front Sensor SHFL, Take Pin 2 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 19: Rear Sensor SHRL, Take Pin 9 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 20: Front Sensor SBF, Take Pin 1 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 21: Rear Sensor SBR, Take Pin 10 out of the smaller 20-pin AFS ECU connector and insert it here.
Pin 28: LH Motor LL2-, Take Pin 32 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 29: LH Motor LL2+, Take Pin 31 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 30: LH Motor LL1-, Take Pin 30 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
Pin 31:LH Motor LL1+, Take Pin 29 out of the larger 32-pin AFS ECU connector and change out the terminal for one of the new ones, then insert it here.
This is quite an involved process, but I think it should take care of everything and get it working just like the 2011-12's. It would have been nicer if both AFS ECU connectors used the same terminal type as the Leveling ECU connector, but only the smaller connector does. The larger AFS ECU connector uses an older style pin.
Not sure if anyone wants to try tackling this though. I mean if it was my car, I probably would, but it's an involved process for sure, especially when you can tape the light, haha.
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Lange; 02-21-12 at 07:41 AM.
02-21-12, 08:31 AM
#401
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My apologies for the confusion. My goal with the suggestion was only to stop the blinking AFS light. As the AFS ECU controls both the AFS and auto-leveling, it of course will disable both when you unplug it. I wasn't sure if auto-leveling was still functioning on cars with the blinking AFS light or not. If it is still working, unplugging the AFS ECU will also disable the auto-leveling.
[post snipped}
This is quite an involved process, but I think it should take care of everything and get it working just like the 2011-12's. It would have been nicer if both AFS ECU connectors used the same terminal type as the Leveling ECU connector, but only the smaller connector does. The larger AFS ECU connector uses an older style pin.
Not sure if anyone wants to try tackling this though. I mean if it was my car, I probably would, but it's an involved process for sure, especially when you can tape the light, haha.
Jeff
[post snipped}
This is quite an involved process, but I think it should take care of everything and get it working just like the 2011-12's. It would have been nicer if both AFS ECU connectors used the same terminal type as the Leveling ECU connector, but only the smaller connector does. The larger AFS ECU connector uses an older style pin.
Not sure if anyone wants to try tackling this though. I mean if it was my car, I probably would, but it's an involved process for sure, especially when you can tape the light, haha.
Jeff
... Where black tape can easily prevail.. haha 
Any input on the below??
"If we can pull a pin or two out of that small connector that either is related to the AFS OFF function or anything that disables the flashing light... That will be a cheaper fix..
The problem is that harness plug & pinouts are very small and in a tight area."
~ Joe Z
02-21-12, 08:50 AM
#402
I don't think so. I mean, I believe pulling the MPX pins from the AFS ECU would also likely disable the leveling. While the 2011-12 Leveling ECU gets separate inputs from the low-beam, charging, etc. the AFS ECU gets all that info from the body ECU via the MPX, so I believe pulling those pins would also disable auto-leveling.
Jeff
Jeff
02-21-12, 09:31 AM
#403
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I don't think so. I mean, I believe pulling the MPX pins from the AFS ECU would also likely disable the leveling. While the 2011-12 Leveling ECU gets separate inputs from the low-beam, charging, etc. the AFS ECU gets all that info from the body ECU via the MPX, so I believe pulling those pins would also disable auto-leveling.
Jeff
Jeff
I'm sure your looking at the pin out wiring diagram for the small plug.. And NOT the larger one?
The small plug is what kills both when disconnected..
Sorry wiring diagrams are not my strong point...
~ Joe Z
