DIY: 2006 IS250 sealed transmission replacement
02-20-17, 11:42 AM
#46
Are you "the Jeff" from Jeff garage on YouTube?!
bro I was able to change my crankshaft pulley because of you! #2jz Thanks a lot seriously!
back to topic
I have a buddy of mine's Foos transmission keeps going into safe mode limp mode and I was curious about the wiring solenoid...
he did a transmission flush or fluid exchange and it worked perfectly for about a week and he takes long commutes to work
however his check engine light came on in his transmission went back into limp mode
bro I was able to change my crankshaft pulley because of you! #2jz Thanks a lot seriously!
back to topic
I have a buddy of mine's Foos transmission keeps going into safe mode limp mode and I was curious about the wiring solenoid...
he did a transmission flush or fluid exchange and it worked perfectly for about a week and he takes long commutes to work
however his check engine light came on in his transmission went back into limp mode
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chriso5573 (04-11-17)
04-17-17, 08:38 PM
#49
For the top bolts 12 o'clock bolt on the bell housing, I had to use an impact wrench with no extensions because the extensions would make it loose torque. It also could be because I took it out last but hope that helps someone. I was only able to fill the transmission (per the filling instructions) with 5 quarts and then it started coming out the fill hole. Maybe I put too much??
10-06-17, 02:37 PM
#51
Hello sorry for the newb question but how do you remove the bolts from the torque converter? which mode of attack did you use. Did you go in from the top or the bottom and what tool did you use? for some reason my socket keeps slipping off. im not sure if bolt is getting deformed or not. Also what is the best way to keep the fly wheel from turning? can the torque converter be left on the engine or will it get damaged if i drop the transmission?
10-14-17, 03:34 PM
#52
That's legitimately the hardest part of the transmission swap. I did everything else by myself. You need a socket that can angle slightly and attack it from underneath with a long extension and a breaker bar while someone else holds the flywheel from spinning with a long screwdriver or what have you. Hope this isn't too late for it to help! Everything else is a piece of cake in comparison to these 6 bolts.
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jehmin (10-15-17)
10-15-17, 09:00 AM
#53
That's legitimately the hardest part of the transmission swap. I did everything else by myself. You need a socket that can angle slightly and attack it from underneath with a long extension and a breaker bar while someone else holds the flywheel from spinning with a long screwdriver or what have you. Hope this isn't too late for it to help! Everything else is a piece of cake in comparison to these 6 bolts.
So i used a compact impact i got 3 out of 6 out but the other 3 wont budge...
the screws are starting to strip and my sockets wont grip tight on it. Iv tried heat and pb blaster already.
Some of the problems im faceing are space and getting the socket to fit on the bolt. its kinda short and its not getting enough grip to it.
That other little portion of metal on the engine or ac is blocking me from the socket exactly 100% on it.
I even tried to use an angled adapter with the socket and a long extension to the impact to start impacting where the radiator would sit but it didnt seem to have enoug torque and grip to get it off. the extension of the bolt was almost 2 ft maybe and i think it lost power driving that thing.
10-15-17, 09:40 AM
#54
I wouldn't recommend using an impact anything on these. You're more likely to strip the bolts. You honestly need a special socket not a regular socket with the elbow adapter. Those cheap elbow adapters are too floppy. Image below is the ball joint socket I used and worked like a charm. With this and a breaker bar and extension you're much less likely to strip it. Just take it slow.
10-15-17, 10:11 AM
#55
I wouldn't recommend using an impact anything on these. You're more likely to strip the bolts. You honestly need a special socket not a regular socket with the elbow adapter. Those cheap elbow adapters are too floppy. Image below is the ball joint socket I used and worked like a charm. With this and a breaker bar and extension you're much less likely to strip it. Just take it slow.
02-20-18, 02:10 PM
#57
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Remove shifter link and attach to new transmission:
Attachment 434524
Old transmission coming out:
Attachment 434525
Transmission out:
Attachment 434526
New transmission with half-shaft attached:
Attachment 434527
Flywheel (where the torque converter attaches):
Attachment 434528
When the new transmission lines up this pin will help with the process. You can adjust the torque converter to line up with the flywheel by sticking a hand into the starter hole, reaching back there and moving it.
Reinstall in reverse. Good luck! Thanks for looking.
P.S: These pictures should also help a member that may wanna just install headers or an exhaust.
Attachment 434524
Old transmission coming out:
Attachment 434525
Transmission out:
Attachment 434526
New transmission with half-shaft attached:
Attachment 434527
Flywheel (where the torque converter attaches):
Attachment 434528
When the new transmission lines up this pin will help with the process. You can adjust the torque converter to line up with the flywheel by sticking a hand into the starter hole, reaching back there and moving it.
Reinstall in reverse. Good luck! Thanks for looking.
P.S: These pictures should also help a member that may wanna just install headers or an exhaust.
My mechanic said he marked the front where the differential connects, but for the rear where the male/female splines are, they can't see that part and it's difficult to get it aligned (different transmission with my old mount). Is that kind of what you are referring to?
02-20-18, 02:21 PM
#58
Can you explain "reinstall in reverse"
Simply means put it all back together in the reverse order, ie the last thing you took off goes back on first, and the first thing you took off goes on last....
Simply means put it all back together in the reverse order, ie the last thing you took off goes back on first, and the first thing you took off goes on last....
02-20-18, 02:24 PM
#59
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oh thanks. didn't address my issue then! I'm wondering how they aligned the splines in the drive shaft since my mechanic said it's "guesswork"
02-20-18, 02:57 PM
#60
oh thanks. didn't address my issue then! I'm wondering how they aligned the splines in the drive shaft since my mechanic said it's "guesswork"
I think ' your mechanic' might be thinking of a manual transmission that has a Clutch Plate that needs careful alignment on re-assembly?
what issue ? just insert the female of the driveshaft into the male splined shaft in end of gearbox ( Transmission!). It's the UJ end that should go back in exactly the same place on the diff flange ( to negate any chance of imbalance problems)
bigger prob is gonna be the top bell housing fixings I reckon!
I think ' your mechanic' might be thinking of a manual transmission that has a Clutch Plate that needs careful alignment on re-assembly?
what issue ? just insert the female of the driveshaft into the male splined shaft in end of gearbox ( Transmission!). It's the UJ end that should go back in exactly the same place on the diff flange ( to negate any chance of imbalance problems)
bigger prob is gonna be the top bell housing fixings I reckon!
Last edited by Texas149; 02-20-18 at 03:10 PM.