IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

2IS aftermarket stereo question thread

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Old 02-02-10, 08:30 PM
  #31  
darksparkz
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Bump for the same question.

So I should take out the stock sub and disable stock amp and reuse that wiring for the LOC, instead of tapping the rear speakers?
Old 02-23-10, 05:36 PM
  #32  
Tonytons
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Quick ? For you guys, how did you guys get to te suband remove it? From the top screen on the inside of the car or though the trunk underneath the sub? I just got my car and I'm going to change the sub out with a kenwood 8" shallow sub.

Have you installed it yet or still stuck?

Also I'm more of a visual person but what are the 4 RCA colors? I'm guessing red, black, (you mentioned orange) and what else?

I know u can connect the sub to one of the rear speakers but you need to call the sterio shop to find out what connection you need.

I will try looking for it.

Tony
Old 02-23-10, 07:44 PM
  #33  
my06is350
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Default upgrading ML subwoofer

Hey brothers n sis......i was just wondering if anyone knows of a aftermarket subwoofer that we can use!!!ive blown two already n i dont wanna get the oem again.i want something that is stronger but will fit with no modification.the lexus techs tells me that the cone keeps ripping and suggest that if i listen to music with lots of bass to go with something better.ive searchd but came up empty.thanks for your help guys
Old 02-23-10, 08:37 PM
  #34  
my06is350
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are the shallow 8'' kenwood subs or pioneers a direct swap?im looking for one that is straight plugnplay on the ml system
Old 02-23-10, 09:36 PM
  #35  
my06is350
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Originally Posted by MiiK350
Thats a great idea considering ML subs arn't that strong.
ive blown 2!!!!
Old 02-24-10, 07:22 AM
  #36  
Tonytons
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I did my research on the subs and found that most people who put the new sub in replacing thre stock sub (chevy tahoe, mercurys version of the ford explorer, and Honda civic) they said they powered the sub with a 500-600w amp, on guy said his chevy colorado didn't need an amp so idk. My guess is with the amp since they need more juice!
Old 02-24-10, 07:33 AM
  #37  
joeker
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make sure your 8" sub is a free air sub, meaning that it is used just as the stock sub is. most subs nowadays are not free air subs. the most popular free air sub is the Kicker CVR. in my honest opinion, i'd fork out the extra 100 or so to get a 12", and an enclosure and enjoy it in my trunk
Old 02-24-10, 07:35 AM
  #38  
joeker
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Originally Posted by darksparkz
Bump,

same questions for me, MTX amp with two kicker subs on a IS250 non-ML/non-navi

Running power and remote wires for the amp is easy, hooking up the sub to the amp is easy. But for signal wires for the amp, which are RCA, can I just get a line out converter and tap into the rear speakers?

Or do I have to disable the stock sub or do something with that?

This is for an '09 IS250
get some t taps, and tap into the factory amp, for the subwoofer speakers. our amp is separated into three sections: amp input, highs/mids, and lows. the lows should be the harness closest to the end of the trunk. be sure to look in the DIY section under "audio system overview" for the schematic
Old 02-24-10, 09:27 AM
  #39  
Tonytons
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Still wonering how you got into the sub compartment tho? Through the screen inside the car or underneath the sub in the trunk?

I dont want to break anything but want a factory look too.
Old 02-24-10, 10:02 AM
  #40  
joeker
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Originally Posted by Tonytons
Still wonering how you got into the sub compartment tho? Through the screen inside the car or underneath the sub in the trunk?

I dont want to break anything but want a factory look too.
the sub is located in the rear deck. you have to remote your seat to get to it. there's a DIY thread somewhere in this forum.
Old 02-24-10, 12:19 PM
  #41  
tmaung
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It is really simple. Here is a quick over view. This is not a DIY. You'll have to find the detail threads for wiring info. I've done mine a long time ago and I do not remember the exact wires.

1.) Run the power cable from the battery to the trunk along the passenger side.

2.) Connect the ground wire to the bolt near the spare tire.

3.) Tap the remote wire from one of the stock harnesses (someone mentioned orange wire earlier) that is connected to the amp in the trunk on the right side.

Now for the signal wire. Your preference may vary but I removed the cable from the stock sub because I am not planning on using the stock sub.

1.) Take off the back seat.

2.) Lift up the rear panel and remove the harness from the stock sub and direct it towards the trunk.

3.) There should be 4 signal wires for L/R +/-. I just inserted speaker wires into the holes in the harness and have it taped so they don't move or touch each other.

4.) Plug those speaker cables into a line output converter (I used an AudioControl LC6) and plug in the line output to the input on your amp if speaker level input is not available. But from my recollection, the Alpines have speaker level input so no need for line output converter.

Again, this is just a quick reference, you have to go look at the detail DIY threads for actual schematics.
Old 02-24-10, 01:48 PM
  #42  
Tonytons
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cool thx for the break down but you have to remove the seats to get to the sub? Dang, sounds like a lot cuz its usually removing the bottom sean then the back portion of the seat? am I right?

I want to try to move the sub upside down from an inverted sub to being up right. If I want more sound, then eventually changing it to pioneer or something along the shallow sub to keep it stock looking.
Old 02-24-10, 04:48 PM
  #43  
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Bump, I'd like to do this also.
Old 02-26-10, 06:24 AM
  #44  
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cannot be done without modification.ive tried..i went out a bought me a shallow mount kicker 8 and it STILL wouldnt fit..magnet was still to big to fit in stocks very small space..if you want it to be mounted in its stock space you would have to cut and build a small enclosure right under the sub...so i just went out and got me a single w3 10..hard hitter
Old 02-26-10, 06:31 AM
  #45  
Proper 350
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Originally Posted by joeker
make sure your 8" sub is a free air sub, meaning that it is used just as the stock sub is. most subs nowadays are not free air subs. the most popular free air sub is the Kicker CVR. in my honest opinion, i'd fork out the extra 100 or so to get a 12", and an enclosure and enjoy it in my trunk
negative...not plug and play..i bought this shallow mount free air sub (kicker CVR) and the magnet was still to big to fit into stock subs space..and even if you get it to work with stock amp(dont remember subs minimum wattage)it wouldnt get the output that you want from it meaning gonna sound like s#it.


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