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DIY aftermarket amp power wire install step by step with pictures
07-11-16, 01:09 PM
#286
Reviving the dead!
Has anyone done this on a third gen? I am having issues getting the power to the trunk.. I cleared the fire wall and got to the back door door sill but can't seem to get back to the trunk. If anyone has any experience that would be great. I have a 2015 non-ml..
thanks!
Has anyone done this on a third gen? I am having issues getting the power to the trunk.. I cleared the fire wall and got to the back door door sill but can't seem to get back to the trunk. If anyone has any experience that would be great. I have a 2015 non-ml..
thanks!
07-11-16, 07:55 PM
#288
Driver School Candidate
Ha thats what I was hoping, Does the 2IS back seat fold down also? I feel like that's where they might be different. Sheazy seems to have pointed me in the right direction. Might post my thoughts after i am done for those working on the newer model if there are any notable differences..
07-24-16, 03:07 PM
#289
Driver School Candidate
Well finally found some time this weekend to finish wiring this thing up. Good news I have power to the amp. Bad news I must of messed something up with the signal wiring because the sub isn't producing any bass.. at all.
I followed the wiring diagram on the following post Here
Any suggestions on where to start with my problem solving? I made sure my sub was wired at 2ohms, checked with multi meter. I am running a Hilfonixs amp w/ the scosche LOC which has been used by other here... Some basic questions, what is the black wire found on the scosche? Secondly it has the option for common ground, factory amp, and line out, what do I set this to?
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
I followed the wiring diagram on the following post Here
Any suggestions on where to start with my problem solving? I made sure my sub was wired at 2ohms, checked with multi meter. I am running a Hilfonixs amp w/ the scosche LOC which has been used by other here... Some basic questions, what is the black wire found on the scosche? Secondly it has the option for common ground, factory amp, and line out, what do I set this to?
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
03-08-17, 07:44 PM
#290
With a sub/amp combo with integrated LOC that only has inputs for the L/R side speakers, any reason you couldn't tap one of the door speakers and the sub wires directly into it rather than using an external LOC?
This is what I purchased and will be this friday. I may just try inputting the sub wires only and then try a door speaker after as a test if no one has tried this before. Worst case scenario I go buy one of those cheap 4 channel LOC's from walmart like mentioned in this thread and do the sum setup. But would rather just use the internal one if I can.
This is what I purchased and will be this friday. I may just try inputting the sub wires only and then try a door speaker after as a test if no one has tried this before. Worst case scenario I go buy one of those cheap 4 channel LOC's from walmart like mentioned in this thread and do the sum setup. But would rather just use the internal one if I can.
04-26-17, 08:09 AM
#291
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How many rca cables needed
With a sub/amp combo with integrated LOC that only has inputs for the L/R side speakers, any reason you couldn't tap one of the door speakers and the sub wires directly into it rather than using an external LOC?
This is what I purchased and will be this friday. I may just try inputting the sub wires only and then try a door speaker after as a test if no one has tried this before. Worst case scenario I go buy one of those cheap 4 channel LOC's from walmart like mentioned in this thread and do the sum setup. But would rather just use the internal one if I can.
This is what I purchased and will be this friday. I may just try inputting the sub wires only and then try a door speaker after as a test if no one has tried this before. Worst case scenario I go buy one of those cheap 4 channel LOC's from walmart like mentioned in this thread and do the sum setup. But would rather just use the internal one if I can.
05-01-17, 04:42 PM
#292
05-01-17, 04:45 PM
#293
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05-01-17, 05:05 PM
#295
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05-03-17, 04:03 PM
#297
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After a LOT of testing, the best bet is to tap BOTH, the mid woofers AND the sub. I had just tapped the mids and was missing a LOT of the low freqs. If you only tap the sub, and want to set the amp crossover a bit higher, you can't. Best bet is to tap both. If you decide to just tap one or the other, the sub will be "better" than the mids. I spent 3 weeks playing with this and until someone can post what the stock amps cut offs as far a freqs are concerned, you're better tapping both and summing the signal together. My stereo sounded like crap just tapping the mids for my aftermarket sub as no frequencies could be heard below 60hz or so.
05-06-17, 08:23 AM
#298
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[QUOTE=a4rings;8756556]
After a few days of testing different approach to get the signals. I have decided that the Scosche 4channel LOC is the best bang for the buck, screw the cleansweep and AudioControl. Two channel LOC would work but 4 channel works better, here are the reasons why.DID YOU FIGURE OUT? How do you sum up the wronnt woofers?
The ML amp put a lot of power into the sub, I know this for a fact because when I switching the input the signals from the sub and the front door woofer, I noticed that the sub signal is significantly higher. If you have a 2 channel LOC, you can use one for the sub and one for the front door woofer. You must then adjust the input level from the stock sub lower to match with the front woofer.
I also tested the signals from the two front woofers, they carry a lot of midbass. If you have signal from either one of the front woofer, the signal is only half compare to using both(I achieved this by using a Y RCA cable).
The best solution I found is SUM up the two front woofer to one channel and the subwoofer on a channel by itself. By doing it this way, the setup sounds SO MUCH better than before. I can actually listen to the lows without getting a headache like it was before
Also, although the wires going into the rear door is full range, the ML amp barely send any wattages in there. It isn't worth getting the signal from the rear speakers so you can can ignore it.
here are the pictures
after everything is in place
can someone please explain what is going on with the RCA's in this picture? I only have two RCA connections on my amp.
In this picture, where are the two RCA's on the left going? and the 4 RCA's on the right?
thanks guys
The ML amp put a lot of power into the sub, I know this for a fact because when I switching the input the signals from the sub and the front door woofer, I noticed that the sub signal is significantly higher. If you have a 2 channel LOC, you can use one for the sub and one for the front door woofer. You must then adjust the input level from the stock sub lower to match with the front woofer.
I also tested the signals from the two front woofers, they carry a lot of midbass. If you have signal from either one of the front woofer, the signal is only half compare to using both(I achieved this by using a Y RCA cable).
The best solution I found is SUM up the two front woofer to one channel and the subwoofer on a channel by itself. By doing it this way, the setup sounds SO MUCH better than before. I can actually listen to the lows without getting a headache like it was before
Also, although the wires going into the rear door is full range, the ML amp barely send any wattages in there. It isn't worth getting the signal from the rear speakers so you can can ignore it.
here are the pictures
after everything is in place
can someone please explain what is going on with the RCA's in this picture? I only have two RCA connections on my amp.
In this picture, where are the two RCA's on the left going? and the 4 RCA's on the right?
thanks guys
05-31-17, 07:43 AM
#299
Hey everyone I am having trouble with my intake and was wondering if someone can help me out. Okay so I installed 4 new door speakers and 4 new tweeters, I ran new speaker wire to the aftermarket amp and I tapped into the wires coning out of the factory amp using a line out converter. I don't have any sound at all. What am I doing wrong?
03-20-19, 09:38 PM
#300
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hey guys i need some help with my 2012 non ml system.... i have both subwoofer channels hooked up to my LOC, however i’m trying to get my front door woofer signals hooked up to it as well. i have found out that the facelift model of the 2is (2011-2013) has different wire colors than those stated in all the other threads and diagrams. i have been searching for this info for 3+ hours... if someone could let me know, all i need to know is the front door woofer + and - channels for both doors. and which connector it’s on. i believe it should be on connector 3 if you’re reading the amp like this: [1 2 3 4]
