IS audio system overview
06-05-07, 03:18 PM
#47
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what size tweeter can fit into the tweeter pods? Can 1 inch tweeters fit in there or they have to be 3/4 inch or less to fit in it?
Also do you know any 3 way component speakers that can fit in the is? the problem is finding a 2.5 inch mid.
Also do you know any 3 way component speakers that can fit in the is? the problem is finding a 2.5 inch mid.
06-13-07, 12:47 PM
#48
Driver
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Finished my setup
I just installed a 600 watt amp and 2 12's in my IS350,now I'm having a problem with my rear view center mirror,it always turns upside down even with the volume at 30...any help on how to fix that problem?
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04-09-08, 07:16 PM
#51
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That was the most over the top writeup ever. I, like you, am happy with the factory sound system and don't plan any changes. I have installed a Motorola bluetooth kit, which by the way works great. It can use the existing car audio or its own speaker which I've decided to do. It can also automatically mute the factory system while on a call. I'd like to have this feature. The stock system has a mute button on the dash. I'm guessing the BT can be made to duplicate this function, if only I knew how. Any suggestions? Thanks.
04-13-08, 08:34 AM
#52
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So I have a full on MTX system which consists of:
2 sets of TXC4.1 (4" midrange with 25mm tweeter with crossover)
2 sets of TXC6.0 (6.5 Woofer with crossover)
powered by a Thunder Elite TE604.4
With a T9512D 12" Sledgehammer MTX Sub in their enclosure
powered by a Thunder Elite TE801.D
All using the stock Nav unit non ML with the help of MTX's RE-Q5 to convert the stock outputs to the aftermarket amps
I just started the install this weekend and i ran into a midrange nightmare...THEN i found cmusic's post here which helps me out a GREAT deal! Thanks for the post!
However i am also coming here for some advice. I want to use my midranges and tried to modify the stock midrange location to fit my 4"midrange however that didn't work. I read here that on the ML system, on the rear deck there are midrange locations there. Could i be more successful at mounting the 4"midranges there since the door does not have the room for it? Any idea for the fronts midrange mounting? I have seen some mount the midrange down on the floor and from the looks of it, i'm going to do the same but any mounting problems that i might run into?
I'm going to post up pictures of the install so that anyone else that wants to keep their 3 ways have an idea of where to go. So hopefully i can have that up by the end of this week.
Comments/Questions/Ideas? Any input welcome...
Thanks.
2 sets of TXC4.1 (4" midrange with 25mm tweeter with crossover)
2 sets of TXC6.0 (6.5 Woofer with crossover)
powered by a Thunder Elite TE604.4
With a T9512D 12" Sledgehammer MTX Sub in their enclosure
powered by a Thunder Elite TE801.D
All using the stock Nav unit non ML with the help of MTX's RE-Q5 to convert the stock outputs to the aftermarket amps
I just started the install this weekend and i ran into a midrange nightmare...THEN i found cmusic's post here which helps me out a GREAT deal! Thanks for the post!
However i am also coming here for some advice. I want to use my midranges and tried to modify the stock midrange location to fit my 4"midrange however that didn't work. I read here that on the ML system, on the rear deck there are midrange locations there. Could i be more successful at mounting the 4"midranges there since the door does not have the room for it? Any idea for the fronts midrange mounting? I have seen some mount the midrange down on the floor and from the looks of it, i'm going to do the same but any mounting problems that i might run into?
I'm going to post up pictures of the install so that anyone else that wants to keep their 3 ways have an idea of where to go. So hopefully i can have that up by the end of this week.
Comments/Questions/Ideas? Any input welcome...
Thanks.
06-12-08, 05:03 PM
#57
Driver
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: VA
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I would first unhook and probably even remove the factory sub from the car. Then I would T-tap wires on the front woofer speaker wires. The right front door woofer wires are Brown (+) and Pink (-). The left front door woofer wires are White (+) and Red (-). Or you could just tap the factory sub wires to the new amp. The sub factory wires are sort of confusing on the schematics I have. The wires are either Pink (+) and Sky Blue (-) or Brown (+) and Light Green(-). Just pick the colors that are at the speaker for your install.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
06-13-08, 12:31 AM
#58
Lexus Test Driver
That was a great write up, thanks for the effort. Some beefs I have with the audio system are as follows: The graduated levels for the volume are too little. It takes too many rotations or "clicks" to get any difference in volume. Second, the RDS feature sucks big time. RDS in most other cars shows the name of the song and the artist. With our set up, you hit the "TEXT" button and you get a quarter of the artist's name or half the song name and then it reverts back to the station number. Can't tell who's singing what and requires eyes to stray from the road for too long. Lastly, the radio display totally washes out in the daytime. This made worse if you drive with the sunroof open, as I do most of the time. I am surprised this got put into production.
07-14-08, 11:27 PM
#59
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hey cmusic. i m planning to take out the 8" factory sub and install the pioneer shallow series which is 2.5" ... http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...llow/TS-SW841D do you think it would make any difference? and it is a good idea to do it?? please help thanx
