IS audio system overview
03-31-06, 10:33 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by CTR
thanks
These speakers i could get and still have a rather reasonable amount of money left, what amp(s) you would suggest of using. And what about the sub, would you change it? Just want an idea how much money i would need to spend to get a better system, 1500$ is around something i'm planning to spend at the moment, i could always upgrade in steps, do something now and add some thing later, i guess the amp i should buy in the beginning if i plan to buy a sub later on for intance.
These speakers i could get and still have a rather reasonable amount of money left, what amp(s) you would suggest of using. And what about the sub, would you change it? Just want an idea how much money i would need to spend to get a better system, 1500$ is around something i'm planning to spend at the moment, i could always upgrade in steps, do something now and add some thing later, i guess the amp i should buy in the beginning if i plan to buy a sub later on for intance.
03-31-06, 10:34 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by uschardcor
cmusic i remember you from is350forums.com
i asked u then about a 3way component set, if the 6.5 door is 2.75 depth i can load that just fine. now in the kicks... 1" tweet 4" mid...do you think qlogic will release anything to hold that setup or am i gonna have to get messy?
oh yea how high is the 6.5 in the door? hopefully its right at the bottom front
i asked u then about a 3way component set, if the 6.5 door is 2.75 depth i can load that just fine. now in the kicks... 1" tweet 4" mid...do you think qlogic will release anything to hold that setup or am i gonna have to get messy?
oh yea how high is the 6.5 in the door? hopefully its right at the bottom front
And the 6.5" is at the bottom front of the door.
04-12-06, 10:46 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by cmusic
I would first unhook and probably even remove the factory sub from the car. Then I would T-tap wires on the front woofer speaker wires. The right front door woofer wires are Brown (+) and Pink (-). The left front door woofer wires are White (+) and Red (-). Or you could just tap the factory sub wires to the new amp. The sub factory wires are sort of confusing on the schematics I have. The wires are either Pink (+) and Sky Blue (-) or Brown (+) and Light Green(-). Just pick the colors that are at the speaker for your install.
Run the tapped wires to a speaker to RCA level convertor and then onto an amp. The turn on wire should be tapped from either the red or orange wires on the main wiring plug.
Hope this helps
Run the tapped wires to a speaker to RCA level convertor and then onto an amp. The turn on wire should be tapped from either the red or orange wires on the main wiring plug.
Hope this helps
10-09-06, 07:35 PM
#35
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CMusic,
I have the ML system and need a little more bass. I am wondering if i can retrofit an aftermarket sub into the factory sub opening or i would need to have a box for it. Also i have an Fosgate T10001 amp (1000 watts), what kind of sub will be able to handle its power. I dont want too much, just enough to be able to feel it a little. Please let me know. thanks.
I have the ML system and need a little more bass. I am wondering if i can retrofit an aftermarket sub into the factory sub opening or i would need to have a box for it. Also i have an Fosgate T10001 amp (1000 watts), what kind of sub will be able to handle its power. I dont want too much, just enough to be able to feel it a little. Please let me know. thanks.
10-10-06, 10:44 AM
#36
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Thread Starter
Kuki_350,
The location the factory sub is in it there are not many car subs that will fit or work well. Your best bet is to remove the factory sub and install an aftermarket one in a box of your own. Search on this forum for my user name. There are several threads on here that explain how to install an aftermarket amp and sub.
As far as what brand to use, that is up to you. Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, JL Audio, Image Dynamics, Alpine, Pioneer, and other well-known brands have excellent subs that will take 1000 watts of more. Personally I use an Alpine Type-X 10” on a 1000 watt Alpine V12 amp with excellent results.
The location the factory sub is in it there are not many car subs that will fit or work well. Your best bet is to remove the factory sub and install an aftermarket one in a box of your own. Search on this forum for my user name. There are several threads on here that explain how to install an aftermarket amp and sub.
As far as what brand to use, that is up to you. Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, JL Audio, Image Dynamics, Alpine, Pioneer, and other well-known brands have excellent subs that will take 1000 watts of more. Personally I use an Alpine Type-X 10” on a 1000 watt Alpine V12 amp with excellent results.
03-18-07, 08:39 AM
#40
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I would first unhook and probably even remove the factory sub from the car. Then I would T-tap wires on the front woofer speaker wires. The right front door woofer wires are Brown (+) and Pink (-). The left front door woofer wires are White (+) and Red (-). Or you could just tap the factory sub wires to the new amp. The sub factory wires are sort of confusing on the schematics I have. The wires are either Pink (+) and Sky Blue (-) or Brown (+) and Light Green(-). Just pick the colors that are at the speaker for your install.
Run the tapped wires to a speaker to RCA level convertor and then onto an amp. The turn on wire should be tapped from either the red or orange wires on the main wiring plug. Use a mutimeter to test which wire to use. The one you want to use has power only when the ignition is turned on. Or some amps allow the speaker wires to be run directly to their inputs and will automatically turn on when they sense a signal on the speaker wires. (JL Audio slash series amps and the 2006 lineup of MTX amps will do this.) I would use the crossover on the amp. Then all you have to do is pick your amp and sub. This setup will allow the sub to play the same levels as the front speakers at all times.
Hope this helps
Run the tapped wires to a speaker to RCA level convertor and then onto an amp. The turn on wire should be tapped from either the red or orange wires on the main wiring plug. Use a mutimeter to test which wire to use. The one you want to use has power only when the ignition is turned on. Or some amps allow the speaker wires to be run directly to their inputs and will automatically turn on when they sense a signal on the speaker wires. (JL Audio slash series amps and the 2006 lineup of MTX amps will do this.) I would use the crossover on the amp. Then all you have to do is pick your amp and sub. This setup will allow the sub to play the same levels as the front speakers at all times.
Hope this helps
03-18-07, 08:49 AM
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03-18-07, 09:11 AM
#42
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03-18-07, 10:51 AM
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03-22-07, 12:46 PM
#44
Moderator - Electronics Forum
Chuck, (cmusic)
Glad to see you're on this board. Haven't seen you since the old RAC days with Brian Morris, Mike Kim, etc.
Took a listen to the new Alpine F#1 Status DVI9990 with the new PXI-H990. Full F#1 current rig...and I wasn't impressed. But then the room that it was installed in had plenty of reflections since it was all plexi. And yes, I had the unit automatically tune for the enviroment...sounded better afterwords, but still not very involving. Just too clinical.
How is your setup going?
Percy
Glad to see you're on this board. Haven't seen you since the old RAC days with Brian Morris, Mike Kim, etc.
Took a listen to the new Alpine F#1 Status DVI9990 with the new PXI-H990. Full F#1 current rig...and I wasn't impressed. But then the room that it was installed in had plenty of reflections since it was all plexi. And yes, I had the unit automatically tune for the enviroment...sounded better afterwords, but still not very involving. Just too clinical.
How is your setup going?
Percy
03-23-07, 04:44 AM
#45
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Chuck, (cmusic)
Glad to see you're on this board. Haven't seen you since the old RAC days with Brian Morris, Mike Kim, etc.
Took a listen to the new Alpine F#1 Status DVI9990 with the new PXI-H990. Full F#1 current rig...and I wasn't impressed. But then the room that it was installed in had plenty of reflections since it was all plexi. And yes, I had the unit automatically tune for the enviroment...sounded better afterwords, but still not very involving. Just too clinical.
How is your setup going?
Percy
Glad to see you're on this board. Haven't seen you since the old RAC days with Brian Morris, Mike Kim, etc.
Took a listen to the new Alpine F#1 Status DVI9990 with the new PXI-H990. Full F#1 current rig...and I wasn't impressed. But then the room that it was installed in had plenty of reflections since it was all plexi. And yes, I had the unit automatically tune for the enviroment...sounded better afterwords, but still not very involving. Just too clinical.
How is your setup going?
Percy
Wow, your a name from the past. I didn't realize you were a moderator on here.
I have the H900 and the auto-tuning sucks. It is a good thing in theory but in practice it can't anticipate and correct for all the acoustic varibles in different cars and systems. Except when I was just playing around with the auto-tune I have always manually tuned my system with my ears.
I'm happy with my current setup now. I have an Alpine Vehicle Hub Pro as my system command unit. The factory head unit is inputted into the Hub's factory input. The Hub also controls my Ipod, an Alpine DVD changer, and an Alpine CD changer. I have a 5.8" LCD screen mounted to a phone bracket next to the center non-NAV panel. I have Boston Z6 speakers in the front doors powered in by an Alpine MRV-F545 125x4 amp and an Alpine Type-X 10" mounted in infinite baffle and firing through the ski hole. An Alpine MRD-M1005 1000 mono amp powers the sub. An F#1 H900 processor controls the sound. I'm really happy with the system at this point.
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