knguyenk

I got around to replacing my melted trunk button release button yesterday and it's relatively straightforward. In a pinch removing only the right hand side of the pins on the trunk liner will work, but removing all the pins will allow for the most flexibility in terms of maneuvering the liner and not removing the interior trunk release handle. Using a flathead or the clip/pin tool will help significantly. Two 10 mm nuts hold the trunk release button and it's a matter of removing it.

EDIT: To assist other members that are of the DIY variety, I have taken the opportunity to modify the post to make it a DIY to replace the trunk. However, I didn't want to re-pull the clips out and risk breaking the clips to take detailed pics so I will try my best to describe the process to the best of my ability and sorry for the lack of detailed pics.

Tools needed:
Clip removal tool or a flathead screwdriver (flathead that is as wide as the tab of the clip will help)
1/4" or better drive ratchet
1/4" or better 10 mm socket
10 mm wrench will work if ratchet and socket are not handy

Procedure:
First open the trunk and locate the 12 clips that hold the liner to the trunk. Use the clip removal tool or the flathead screwdriver to remove all 12 clips. In a pinch you can remove all but the 3 left most pins ( marked in green), as the trunk switch is on the center right of the trunk just offset from the internal trunk release handle. However, I found it was easier to manipulate the liner with all the clips off for the most access to the trunk switch. Note: the clips will be quite stiff when you try to remove them, be sure to apply steady pressure as you pull them out (if you are using the flathead screwdriver) The picture below shows the clips and their locations.



Once the clips are off, the liner can be easily moved around to access the trunk switch nuts. A note that there are 3 velcro straps that are affixed across the edge of the trunk liner marked in the pic below.



The picture below shows the velcro strap that is affixed to the trunk and the trunk liner. If the velcro strap comes off the trunk it is not a big issue after you reassemble pin down the clips.



I wasn't too sure about how to remove the internal trunk release handle, so I ended up maneuvering to the trunk switch without messing with that release handle.

Once the trunk switch nuts are located, take the 10 mm socket and ratchet or the wrench and remove the two nuts. Once the nuts are removed, unplug the plug on the switch and proceed to remove the switch from the trunk; if the switch does not come out very easily you can push on it from the outside to help you remove the switch. I ended up breaking the left part of the button from the severe amount of plastic deteriorating on the old switch, if that happens its okay.

After removing the old switch, install the new switch into the fixed studs and tighten down the nuts snug. Plug the plug back into the switch and start putting the trunk liner back together insuring that the holes of the liner are lined up to the holes on the trunk for the clips. Then re-install the clips and make sure that the liner is secured once finished.

Here's a comparison of the old button on the left and the new replacement on the right.

Lei

I had same problems, where did you buy that part? and how much?

thanks a lot

knguyenk

Part #: 8494553010
I bought my trunk switch from the forum favorite Sewell Parts for $54.80. Not too bad since that switch can run up to $90 for it. However, their online store is shutting down but I noticed you're located in Texas and Sewell Lexus is located Dallas, Texas, you can probably pop in their store and get it there in person (if you live near Dallas). Additionally, you can take that part # and order it from Lexus of Pembroke Pines for $53.46. Do keep in mind those prices do not include shipping costs.

Lei

thank you

i am living at houston 3hours away from dallas

knguyenk

Then lppparts.com is the better alternative; their website isn't intuitive as Sewellparts.com is but with the part number, you will be able to get the trunk switch without much fuss.

s6 4rings

iTrader: (1)

mine is waiting to be installed, do you have to pull the panel off the front? can you post something with a detailed diy?

knguyenk

I ended up leaving the panel liner on the trunk because I wasn't too sure how to remove the internal trunk release handle from the trunk.

I edited my post with detailed instructions on how to replace the trunk switch to the best of my abilities without taking off the liner again. I hope it helps. For what it is worth, the difficulty of this DIY is a 1 out of 10. Just be careful using the flathead and apply steady pressure to remove the clips. I ended up slipping and bashing a finger onto the trunk which hurts like crazy.

sagan

Just did this over the past weekend. Thank you for the instructions & part number. It is labeled "SWITCH, LUGGAGE" if you are looking to confirm the description and it was part number 84945-53010 as stated above.

I was able to get enough access by just removing the right top two clips in the photo above, the ones left and right of the trunk handle. I then just lightly pulled down the liner and reached in with a ratchet & socket. As previously stated, removing the pins is annoying. I actually pulled down on the liner a little to start so that I could see behind the liner, and then used a pair of pliers to guide the stem of the clip out of the hole. You can also put your fingers behind the liner and the "head of the clip" and then push from the back outwards. Both techniques seemed to work. I didn't have any success using a flat tip screwdriver or pliers from the front and deformed one of the clips with pliers.

I think theoretically if they sold the rubber/gummy portion only you could clean off the old switch (although it was really messy) and replace it but the rubber/gummy doesn't come by itself.

Fizzboy7

Been searching for a thread on this, as my melting button is driving me nuts. So before I invest in a new piece, can the melted rubber be sliced off with a blade and the mechanism underneath still work? Or is it all built in as one piece? I'd like to at least try to get the sticky stuff off so I can use the release until I order up the new part and dig in.
Thanks for any info...

yardie876

I was thinking of the same but am apprehensive that water will get into the button a fudge things up if I completely remove the rubber.

sagan

I had the same thought as the previous two posters did when I replaced my trunk button. I ended up playing with the old piece for about 30 minutes. It seemed in my case anyway that either the rubber was so melted or it was glued on to the physical button under the rubber it made it difficult to undo. Long story short it just made a huge mess and it then took about 3 days to get all the half melted rubber out from under my fingernails.

I think your mileage could vary depending on how bad the button is but I would generally say if you are trying to make it less sticky, fiddling with it, at least in in my case, just made it way worse and wasted time.

IMO, just buy the replacement button (sometimes ebay has them too btw) and then replace it. I think I also got away with not undoing as many of the clips and getting my fingers in there (again your mileage will vary).

Hope that helps! Good luck.

Fizzboy7

Thanks guys for the above info. Very, very helpful. I'll be honest, I am extremely apprehensive digging into trunk linings and clips. But in this case, I think I may just do it. I already tried slicing off the melted gunk, and it doesn't reduce. I also came away with black fingers... the stuff is nasty. So I will order the part and have a go at it.
Question...how widespread was this problem on the IS? Did anyone get Lexus to pay for it or partially? Was there any sort of bulletin or recall? When I inquired with my dealer about having the work down, he said it would come to $575- crazy.

sagan

It's not difficult. I would do this if you are worried about it. 1) Buy the switch. 2) Try following the original guide above. I think I actually only removed the 3 clips in the top middle by the handle that form a triangle. I was able to get my paws in to do the rest. Use pliers and/or flat tip screwdriver for the clips. At this point you'll likely be successful -- hurray. 3) If you fail, find someone in your neighborhood or a smaller local oil change place and print out the post with the instructions.

$575 is outrageous. The part can be had for $50 on various sites and that's still a retail price. The dealer price is probably $15-25 or even lower. The actual work here can be accomplished at the dealer which has the fancy clip removal tool in < 3 minutes. So that's $550 ish or so for 3 minutes or the equivalent hourly rate of $11,000/hour ($550/3*60).

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

what I'm going to try (when time permits) is to cut out only the gummed up portion and leave the surrounding rubber intact, since I believe it's the "seal" that keeps the water from entering the trunk.
of course the button itself would be exposed and can possibly let water intrude as well.

this leads me to another option: to see if plastidipping the whole button would work (which is what the product was originally meant for - not for a temporary paint job...) !

sagan