njmop

Hello,

I have an IS250 (2008) and the locks don't work (ALL of them). When I hit the passenger side unlock button I hear something near the glove box trying to work and when I stop the car and turn off the engine it sounds like something else is trying to unlock to the doors.

Dealer automatically said actuators and $2000 to replace. They didn't even look at the car and just said that's what it is and what it cost. I don't think that all of these went bad at once, so is the Body ECU (Control Box) or whatever it isreally called likely the problem?

Where is it located?

Can I just replace it with a junk yard one (they seem to be AFS or non-AFS when I look up any differences in these modules)?

I've checked the TI&TE fuse/ECU-IG RH fuse/20amp Fr door fuse.

I've also heard of a "smart door control module". What is that and could IT be the issue?
Thanks for any help on this.

Also, I've read many threads on actuators and understand the way they work and how to replace them. I am more concerned about the potential for the electrics in the computer being bad...

njmop

It isn't the MPX Body Control Unit, so I now have an extra if anyone needs one at a good price!

Anyway, I will try an actuator replacement this weekend. I recall seeing a member posting a .pdf file of a 2008 IS actuator install. I didn't save it at the time and can't find the thread. Can anyone help?

Thanks...

scott1256c

I sometimes think that no matter what goes wrong, Lexus dealerships charge at least $2000 to fix it.

njmop

OK, rebuilt all 4 assemblies and installed them all. Used this write-up and I added a little bit of nonsense to it.

Basically, the process went from kind off difficult to fairly easy. Motors were $24 total. Dealer wanted over $2k. My fix was 100x less. Don't care if it only works a year, it's not that hard.

Good luck for anyone else doing 2008 IS250 actuators.

I can help now if you have questions...

getafewliv

Wait, so all 4 actuators actually did go bad?.... That seems fishy.

I would be wondering what caused all 4 to fail.

4TehNguyen

iTrader: (1)

that is very strange that ALL four would go out at once, but those motors work in all toyotas, lexus, and other makes. Dealer wanted $500 to fix the drivers door on my moms LX470, I did it with the $5 motor and works great.

You can buy the motors with the flat shafts on ebay so you dont have to dremel them. Now that it is confirmed from your DIY that the 2IS uses the flat shaft type motor. My moms LX470 used a flat shaft too, I had to file it down.

njmop

I think they were are just due to time. I bought the car used and they were like that. I ended up testing each "old" motor. 3 were dead and one functioned normally (spins/stops then reverse power spins other way and stops). So, I think one might have actually been loose in the assembly and the others just decided to kick and the old owner decided not to fix...

I changed them once I was annoyed at not hearing the "beep" when I pushed my door lock button at night...

njmop

By the way, all four were "D" shaft style, ASIN made assembly, but rears were slightly different than the fronts in construction of the motor itself. Not enough that it changed anything else, they just had black plastic on the bottom vs white on fronts and some different markings. Either way, all motors went bad.

4TehNguyen

iTrader: (1)

so you didnt have to use any epoxy or adhesive to seal the motor shell? Its held together by those 16 clips? Easier and harder at the same time, sounds annoying to unclip all 16 but snapping back together is nicer than epoxy. LX had adhesive for the clamshell, I even ziptied the clamshell together for extra security along with epoxy.

njmop

No epoxy used, although it is a good idea. The center screw (small one) holds the assembly tight enough and the clips weren't broken and they held fine. Even the "rain cover" adds to the assembly being held tightly so I am not too concerned, but time will tell. Out of 4 installs, I broke one clip and that was on my first try at it.

ShawnD

Little concerning since mine has stopped "beeping" at lockup now. Only the driver's door will lock with the external door button now on my 06. I searched and could not find, does anyone have the cheat sheet for the doors that allows you to program from the remote for all unlock, etc.

TIA!
Shawn

njmop

My "beep" didn't come back until every actuator was replaced. I don't know for sure, but it is likely the security system telling you "no beep=not secure".

ShawnD

Makes sense.

skoota500

I have the same issue with my rear pass door. it doesnt lock/unlock automatically. I never have passengers and I never use that door so I havent been pressed to fix it. I just leave it locked and I still get the beep when locking with remote. No beep means a door is unlocked. Just manually lock it and and hit lock on the remote, it should beep now.