6000K HID plug n play fog lights...
08-23-11, 01:43 PM
#1
Pole Position
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6000K HID plug n play fog lights...
Just got my IS350 and looking to replace the fogs with some 6000K plug n play HIDs. Looking for something reliable. Any suggestions? Anyone heard of DDM?
08-23-11, 05:46 PM
#2
Lexus Champion
I've used ddm on my motorcycles and zero problems. Great product.
I gotta ask : do you need an additional power harness that gets power directly from the battery(because of the initiall start up) or just the regular set up would be fine?
I gotta ask : do you need an additional power harness that gets power directly from the battery(because of the initiall start up) or just the regular set up would be fine?
08-23-11, 05:50 PM
#3
I had DDM 3k fogs on my old car. No issues with them or anything. I'm sure their 6k's are just as good.
You could have posted in the same thread as your other thread about low beams HID's, just so you know in the future
Always run the harness if your running HID's to light's that weren't wired to handle HID's. You may be fine even if you don't, but its always a good idea to, because frying your stock wiring will not be a cheap replacement at all! That being said, i think the majority of people probably aren't running the harness anyways from what i see. So up to you really
You could have posted in the same thread as your other thread about low beams HID's, just so you know in the future
Originally Posted by DCoolBeans
I gotta ask : do you need an additional power harness that gets power directly from the battery(because of the initiall start up) or just the regular set up would be fine?
08-23-11, 08:45 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
I've put HID kits on every car i have had since 2000 way back when they paying $400 for a kit was a deal. i have ballasts that are 8years old from Phillips that still work great. i have a ddm kit on my wife's car. now here's boring explanation of why people do and do not run a wire harness and why you sometimes do and do not need one.we'll start with the older cars. my wife's car. some cars with sealed beam headlights require 90-110 watt bulb. those wire harnesses are able to handle the heavy amp load that are required from the ballast. thus the ballast usually stays slightly cooler. never had a problem with my wife's car as far as the dreaded (flicker/strobe) effect i know people get. now for some cars that have a good headlight wiring there pretty much is a relay to your battery and that's what the click sound is when you turn on your headlights. now that relay sometimes burns out.(never had it happen to me)now the reason people say you might fry your wires is because reflector and projection type headlight use the light more efficient so they only use a 55/65 watt light. manufactures only put wires thick enough to pretty much handle that wattage. now with you highs and lows running your going to pull about 15 amps or so. and i believe from the top of my head a plug and play kit pulls about 25 amps or so at start up. because most cars headlight system was not made or ever thought to pull that kind of load. your going to get resistance. and when you get resistance from wires that pull more then they are made for you get heat. and that's were people will say you'll burn out your wires. kinda like when people plug in a window AC unit on a rinki dink extension cord. what happens? the wires get hot and sometimes melt and short out. because or the amp load being pulled at start up some people get a strobe flicker effect from there kits. this gives premature were and tear on your kit. i really hope this answers any and all of your questions for you and anyone else down the road.
Last edited by filidog; 08-23-11 at 09:17 PM.
08-24-11, 08:25 AM
#7
My next kit will be DDM because my kit from HIDEXTRA sucks.
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08-24-11, 12:23 PM
#8
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I've put HID kits on every car i have had since 2000 way back when they paying $400 for a kit was a deal. i have ballasts that are 8years old from Phillips that still work great. i have a ddm kit on my wife's car. now here's boring explanation of why people do and do not run a wire harness and why you sometimes do and do not need one.we'll start with the older cars. my wife's car. some cars with sealed beam headlights require 90-110 watt bulb. those wire harnesses are able to handle the heavy amp load that are required from the ballast. thus the ballast usually stays slightly cooler. never had a problem with my wife's car as far as the dreaded (flicker/strobe) effect i know people get. now for some cars that have a good headlight wiring there pretty much is a relay to your battery and that's what the click sound is when you turn on your headlights. now that relay sometimes burns out.(never had it happen to me)now the reason people say you might fry your wires is because reflector and projection type headlight use the light more efficient so they only use a 55/65 watt light. manufactures only put wires thick enough to pretty much handle that wattage. now with you highs and lows running your going to pull about 15 amps or so. and i believe from the top of my head a plug and play kit pulls about 25 amps or so at start up. because most cars headlight system was not made or ever thought to pull that kind of load. your going to get resistance. and when you get resistance from wires that pull more then they are made for you get heat. and that's were people will say you'll burn out your wires. kinda like when people plug in a window AC unit on a rinki dink extension cord. what happens? the wires get hot and sometimes melt and short out. because or the amp load being pulled at start up some people get a strobe flicker effect from there kits. this gives premature were and tear on your kit. i really hope this answers any and all of your questions for you and anyone else down the road.
I'll also recommend ddm tuning. From an 'ends justify the means' perspective, their kit is a great deal.
08-26-11, 04:35 PM
#10
Former Sponsor
08-26-11, 04:46 PM
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i bought the cheapest kit i could find on ebay for my 98 accord which i recently sold and aside from the ballast going bad one time i had no problems. I sent it in and just payed for shipping both ways and i was back in business. My friend has a 335I who's oem hids went bad and the dealer was charging 400 to replace. He went with aftermarket for a lot less. Point being that you dont need to spend over 50 for a kit if i had mine for 2 years and it served me as good as my buddy with the 335. Im ordering 2 new kits for my is this monday both running for about 34 dollars each.
