jaredmac11

New purchase of a used 2002 is300. Let me preface this by saying this is not my is300.. it is my friend's but he isn't *as* computer literate as me and didn't feel comfortable reaching out to this forum.

I owned a 2003 is300 with 120k miles and it was rock solid the entire time. I did the usual maintenance and some other work as well (valve cover gasket, power steering pump, other stuff). I told him it was a reliable car and he could find just about any good car with the right service record. I may have steered him wrong here.

He found a 2002 is300 with 150k miles for only $3000. I told him it was priced low for a reason but I thought we could work on what was needed. It had a bad wheel hub that needed to be replaced-- no problem, got it done at a shop for $500. It also had the check engine light come on intermittently-- mostly on.

It had no issues minus running really rough at low RPM, especially when pulling in to park. Running down streets and highway is no problem at all. He also claims the brakes act funky around this time, taking a lot of pressure to get a stop. Again, on the highway everything is fine. The car runs fine, minus this hiccup. I haven't gotten to drive it yet so we will see...

He took the car in to Auto Zone to run the error codes and it came up with 30 codes. I didn't even think this was possible. Most point to a misfire but not all. What would cause this and where do you even start? I will get the codes from him. I am guess it is electronic or a computer issue.

More to come... any initial thoughts?

1997Soarer

iTrader: (1)

I'd reset the ecu, and see what codes pop up first. Then go from there

1997Soarer

iTrader: (1)

Rough idle could be a couple things. With all those codes, I'd going to assume it's been neglected. It's probably due for EVERYTHING.

driftaway

I know if you disconnect stuff like sensors while the key is in the "on" position with the engine off. it will throw codes. Disconnect my maf once, to clean it with the key still in. and boy, did I get acouple of CEL.

Like mentioned, might be stored old codes, reset and go from there.

knshro13

iTrader: (4)

reset, and wait for them to come back. work from there.

jaredmac11

This is all really helpful. Disappointing, but helpful. The previous owner said he did critical maintenance, but with a blown wheel hub and idling isses, it does seem like it was neglected and beat around a bit.

I'll relay the message and see what comes are thrown. Thanks for the help as always...

kamlung

iTrader: (8)

just because the previous owner said he did the maintenance, did he have the paperwork to back it up? even if he did the labor himself, receipt for the parts would have had some peace of mind... that's the gamble you take with any used car...

jaredmac11

I agree. I've run in to that myself. To save myself a bit here, this was my advice as well. They will say whatever they need to say to sell a car. To be fair, at the time, no used is300 had service records available so it was a gamble regardless. He can do the service himself to be certain.

I think he can still turn it in to something, its a clean car and runs well minus the rough idle.

kamlung

iTrader: (8)

start here..

jgreezy

check the VVTI solenoid, I just bought a 2002 IS300 a couple months ago for $3,800 thought I got a great deal got to DMV found out it was SALVAGED, with multiple codes another $2000 later I have a great running LEX that I still have to get through salvage inspection before I can register. Moral of the story it's well worth the $30 -$40 for a Carfax before you go, and take a code scanner with you. it sounds like your buddy stepped in the same DOODOO I did. I would do a FULL tune up ALL gaskets, seals, fluids, water pump while you're in there, belts, hoses, plugs, wires, and coil packs. because EVERYTHING is unknown don't take seller's word for it he just want's to get rid of his headache. GOOD LUCK!!! He'll have a great car in the end.

jaredmac11

This was pretty much my exact advice too. The dude said he did oil 'last week' but it was low. The dude said he had receipts for the service 'in the glove box' but there were none. Sellers will say whatever to sell a car. Caveat emptor and all that crap.

At the end of the day its still a $3200 car so he has $2-3k to spend to get it back to a normal price.

jgreezy

Yeah exactly he'll end up with a great car and on the bright side his is already registered I can't even drive mine yet

jaredmac11

C0200 Right Front Wheel Sensor Fault

P1349 VVT System Malfunction (Bank 1b) blocked oil control valve filter

C1235 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Missing

I googled the error codes that came up and that's what I have found. They could be inaccurate.


Honestly they sorta make sense. Is it possible the mechanic boogered up the sensor with the wheel hub? He worked on the RF wheel

For the OCV, the connector had a zip tie on it, which leads me to believe it's been replaced before and the previous owner broke a tab on the connector. I wouldn't think this thing would fail TWICE now, unless he never did oil....

jgreezy

Sounds like the VVTI solenoid need to be replaced and the two wheel sensors I would start there and see if that at least clear the codes but if you don't do it now I would still do the whole gaskets and water pump you know that for peace of mind just because you know he didn't do it

Quest9081

What this guy said