DannyUSAF

It's a factory auto. I plan on swapping a 5 speed into there, so I'm guessing it's w55.

BiggDatty

I think the w55 is capable of 300-400 hp, not sure though. And the w58 is just a little more.

DannyUSAF

Thanks for the info man!

Lextrd016

W-55 which is what I have and I'm on boost!! 14lbs 370hp it's been over a year no problems..but I have a spare r-154 just in case it's all how u drive the car I don't launch hard off the line nor any power shifting.. It's all about your power goals I recommend the 6 speed if u can find and afford it r-154 tranny should be good for 500hp ish but do yourself a favor don't go with a w-55 if u plan on boost

DannyUSAF

I heard parting together the r-154 would cost up to about 6-7k in parts.
In reality, I just wanna be pushing around 400+ ish. No need for 600hp+ for street use haha.
How much did boosting the car originally cost you?

As for the car I picked up, it's a Silver 2003 IS300, with 187k miles. It seemed very high to me, but if I plan on swapping the transmission and rebuilding the motor it didn't bother me so much. Only down side to the car:

1. Radio is somewhat working. The volume goes up and down and I think it's caused by the signal.
2. The CAT is bad. I could get someone to pass me, but who know's what I'll end up doing. I live in CA and heard it's illegal to find a CAT at the junk yard. I think Magnaflow makes a universal CAT, but I heard that's illegal too. Any tips?
3. Breaks squeak just a bit, but that's an easy fix.

Other than that, the car is beautiful. Way nicer than I expected it to be for a 10 year old car. It drives as if it were brand new, and it's definitely a fun car.

DannyUSAF

Lextrd016

The r154 u don't need to do anything to it just some minor fitting issues I got mine with a new clutch kit for $1,500 here in Florida the build was around $7to8kish for 400 u would have to do the bottom end rods pistons etc.. If u go boost no need for a cat..lol 3 inch turbo back

MzKaylee

pretttyyyy!!! ^__^

JSAP

Welcome to CL

DannyUSAF

Thanks everyone.

And that's just an estimated price on the build not including turbo hm? How well do you think the motor and transmission will hold up with the goal of 400ish whp, if I just swapped a 5 speed and turbo'd it?

Btw, as to my radio problem..any help on that subject? haha

FordGT08

iTrader: (1)

Welcome nice rides!

Lextrd016

that price includeds all part including turbo and labor I luck out the builder who did my car did it in his garage he is a gunies when it comes to these motors r154 should be fine for 400hp ish swapping the tranny and some head work and bottom end work to be safe as a daily driver.. Sorry I'm clueless when it come to the radio I never had a issue and I changed it out in the first month..lol also I got some good deals on parts looking around eBay forums etc..

DannyUSAF

Well damn, that's a pretty fair price then, since it includes parts and labor. I'm really interested will start piecing the parts together soon.

Anyways, the car I got was a used 03 with 180k miles. Mileage didn't really bother me since I'm building up the motor anyways. I'm really surprised at how fun this car is to drive. It handles so nice, and the N/A 2JZ is better than I expected.

Today I installed my subs from the Lancer, but a weird thing happened. I connected the power wire to the battery, and when I first completed the project, the car turned on and ran fine. After I got home, the car sat for about 10 minutes, off, and wouldn't start. Motor wouldn't even crank, so I jumped the car and it turned on. I shut off the car just to make sure it would turn on, and it didn't. Thus, I jumped it yet again. Tried the same thing again and it wouldn't turn on..again...Well, I disconnected the sub, draining power from the battery, and the car turns over like nothing ever happend. Anyone have a clue as to why this is?

I'm also interested in doing the fog light mod, but I heard sometimes the car won't start since you use the ignition fuse. Has this been fixed?

Taks_is300

I would slaw an amp meter on the amp power wire and the battery to see what kind of draw your getting from the amp. Is the remote power wire from the deck to the amp tied to a constant source, if so that could be keeping your amp on and causing the drain. Look for a switched source i.e. 12v accessory circuit.

I never heard that the car would start after doing the fog light mod. From what I gather your only changing where the fog light switch sources the signal from. i.e. factory 12v from the head light circuit to a circuit that has 12v when the car is on and the headlights are off.

Good luck, waiting to see it turboed

DannyUSAF

Thanks man, I'll definitely look into it today when I get home. The remote power wire was connected to my ignition fuse, maybe it's a bad idea, I have no idea. But I disconnected the amp power source from the battery in general, and the car is totally fine now.

**EDIT**

Figured out the problem.

The marine connector from the battery was broken. Causing the sudden drop of power coming to the car. I found this out because after class, on the drive from the parking lot to the street, the car died, and the head was totally off the positive terminal. Made a quick run to Autozone and bought a new connector and installed it right then and there. Thank God I had my tool bag in the trunk.

Gonna re-install the subs tomorrow when it's light out, so glad that's fixed. Got the car smogged today too, passed. Now on the hunt for an exhaust.