Help wheels
06-25-12, 04:25 PM
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Help wheels
Question 18x8 +38 18x9+38 all around will this fit a stock IS 300 with adjustable coilovers without having to cut or roll fenders ? Would it be flush with fenders ? Thanks
06-25-12, 05:37 PM
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Different rims are different since there is different hub sizes but from looking at your specs it looks like your front will not be flush but the rear is perfect! If you can try to have them fitted!
06-25-12, 06:24 PM
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06-26-12, 03:14 PM
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Same spec wheels.
Front: Fenders rolled and liner modded. Front passenger fender was pulled ~5mm by the tire. Very minimal rubbing.
225/40/18 w/ -1.2* camber. ~5mm sunk.
Rear: Fenders shaved, rear bumper tab area (of the quarter panel) shaved, rear bumper tab shortened, and rear liner remolded. Some rubbing by the rear bumper tab on large dips and bumps.
235/40/18 w/ -1.3* camber
245/35/18
Front: Fenders rolled and liner modded. Front passenger fender was pulled ~5mm by the tire. Very minimal rubbing.
225/40/18 w/ -1.2* camber. ~5mm sunk.
Rear: Fenders shaved, rear bumper tab area (of the quarter panel) shaved, rear bumper tab shortened, and rear liner remolded. Some rubbing by the rear bumper tab on large dips and bumps.
235/40/18 w/ -1.3* camber
245/35/18
06-26-12, 06:41 PM
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Same spec wheels.
Front: Fenders rolled and liner modded. Front passenger fender was pulled ~5mm by the tire. Very minimal rubbing.
225/40/18 w/ -1.2* camber. ~5mm sunk.
Rear: Fenders shaved, rear bumper tab area (of the quarter panel) shaved, rear bumper tab shortened, and rear liner remolded. Some rubbing by the rear bumper tab on large dips and bumps.
235/40/18 w/ -1.3* camber
245/35/18
Front: Fenders rolled and liner modded. Front passenger fender was pulled ~5mm by the tire. Very minimal rubbing.
225/40/18 w/ -1.2* camber. ~5mm sunk.
Rear: Fenders shaved, rear bumper tab area (of the quarter panel) shaved, rear bumper tab shortened, and rear liner remolded. Some rubbing by the rear bumper tab on large dips and bumps.
235/40/18 w/ -1.3* camber
245/35/18
06-26-12, 06:58 PM
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do u recommend a different off set for the front without doing mods? I don't mine moding the rear what do u reccomend for a flush set up?
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06-26-12, 08:20 PM
#8
Thanks!
I think you'd be fine if you: have the fenders rolled fairly flat all around, remold the fender liners, and shave the rear quarter panel where the bumper bolts in. If you want a flush setup, you have to do fender mods. You should get on the regional forum, and find out who people recommend in your area. Recommendations from happy customers is worth a lot more than what a shop "says" they can do.
If you want flush fitment up front, you need to determine how much camber you will have. You also need to run stretched tires, pull your fenders a little, or maybe both. As your car drops, negative camber will naturally increase. If you drop your car more, and go from say -1 to -3 camber, your wheels that were flush, won't be anymore.
If you're going with a 1 finger drop and about -1 camber, 18x8.5+38 should be fine. Without specifics, it's difficult to make a recommendation. The best thing you can do is look at other people's setups, and copy what you like. The build thread section on myIS would be a great place to start looking since those threads often have specs and required mods listed. There's also the wheel fitment thread with about 3000 fitment questions with answers.
I think you'd be fine if you: have the fenders rolled fairly flat all around, remold the fender liners, and shave the rear quarter panel where the bumper bolts in. If you want a flush setup, you have to do fender mods. You should get on the regional forum, and find out who people recommend in your area. Recommendations from happy customers is worth a lot more than what a shop "says" they can do.
If you want flush fitment up front, you need to determine how much camber you will have. You also need to run stretched tires, pull your fenders a little, or maybe both. As your car drops, negative camber will naturally increase. If you drop your car more, and go from say -1 to -3 camber, your wheels that were flush, won't be anymore.
If you're going with a 1 finger drop and about -1 camber, 18x8.5+38 should be fine. Without specifics, it's difficult to make a recommendation. The best thing you can do is look at other people's setups, and copy what you like. The build thread section on myIS would be a great place to start looking since those threads often have specs and required mods listed. There's also the wheel fitment thread with about 3000 fitment questions with answers.
06-27-12, 06:06 AM
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Thanks!
I think you'd be fine if you: have the fenders rolled fairly flat all around, remold the fender liners, and shave the rear quarter panel where the bumper bolts in. If you want a flush setup, you have to do fender mods. You should get on the regional forum, and find out who people recommend in your area. Recommendations from happy customers is worth a lot more than what a shop "says" they can do.
If you want flush fitment up front, you need to determine how much camber you will have. You also need to run stretched tires, pull your fenders a little, or maybe both. As your car drops, negative camber will naturally increase. If you drop your car more, and go from say -1 to -3 camber, your wheels that were flush, won't be anymore.
If you're going with a 1 finger drop and about -1 camber, 18x8.5+38 should be fine. Without specifics, it's difficult to make a recommendation. The best thing you can do is look at other people's setups, and copy what you like. The build thread section on myIS would be a great place to start looking since those threads often have specs and required mods listed. There's also the wheel fitment thread with about 3000 fitment questions with answers.
I think you'd be fine if you: have the fenders rolled fairly flat all around, remold the fender liners, and shave the rear quarter panel where the bumper bolts in. If you want a flush setup, you have to do fender mods. You should get on the regional forum, and find out who people recommend in your area. Recommendations from happy customers is worth a lot more than what a shop "says" they can do.
If you want flush fitment up front, you need to determine how much camber you will have. You also need to run stretched tires, pull your fenders a little, or maybe both. As your car drops, negative camber will naturally increase. If you drop your car more, and go from say -1 to -3 camber, your wheels that were flush, won't be anymore.
If you're going with a 1 finger drop and about -1 camber, 18x8.5+38 should be fine. Without specifics, it's difficult to make a recommendation. The best thing you can do is look at other people's setups, and copy what you like. The build thread section on myIS would be a great place to start looking since those threads often have specs and required mods listed. There's also the wheel fitment thread with about 3000 fitment questions with answers.
06-27-12, 03:23 PM
#10
If your car is as low as mine, or lower, the wheels will probably be a little sunk. Since I have Figs Mega Arms, I was able to correct camber . Without them, your car will probably have around - 2.50 deg camber. Remember when I mentioned the role camber may play with respect to fitment? Also, take a look at the length of 2mm. it's almost nothing. There will be no significant difference between 18x9+38 and 18x9+40.
06-27-12, 03:37 PM
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If your car is as low as mine, or lower, the wheels will probably be a little sunk. Since I have Figs Mega Arms, I was able to correct camber . Without them, your car will probably have around - 2.50 deg camber. Remember when I mentioned the role camber may play with respect to fitment? Also, take a look at the length of 2mm. it's almost nothing. There will be no significant difference between 18x9+38 and 18x9+40.
06-27-12, 03:40 PM
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One more thing to correct the camber I would need the same fig arms and how much do they run?
06-27-12, 04:35 PM
#13
Here's a quote of the man himself:
Here's a link to his site: http://shopfigs.com/v1/FIGS%20MEGA%2...20EE%20VERSION. I highly recommend his toe links as well. After a certain point, the OEM rear toe adjustment will not be able to compensate for the camber correction provided by the mega arms. If you can't correct camber anymore because your toe will be off, what's the point? You should contact Mike (Fig), and see what he can do for you. Sometimes he can work a deal if you buy multiple items at the same time. Depending on how low your car is, he might need to customize the arms for your setup. If you didn't know, Mike is a vendor over here and my.IS.
Hi guys,
I will give you a short summary and contact me with any questions.
Lowering on stock shocks more than 1/2" means the shock is operating in its end condition more. This is where it close to compressing the internal fluid at the end of the travel, this leads to increased seal pressure and premature failure. They will last, but you will be hopping soon enough. Adjustable coilovers allow you to operate in the shocks intended travel range and adjust ride height to suit with a completly separate adjustment.
EVERYTHING WEARS OUT, so just remember no matter which route you go, you will never be done spending money if you choose to drive the car.
The MEGA arms are not just a camber kit, "Camber Kit" is so generic and can mean anything from eccentric bolts to a completely new suspension. MEGA arms are just that, a complete control arm that is optimised to give you adjustment when your car is lowered. Not just in camber, but also in shock angle alignment, sway endlink adjustment and not to mention they replace and rubber bushing that is staked in place and adds another undamped spring. MEGA arms allow the suspension to locate quickly, respond faster and that gets back to another goal you probably had, making the car drive better.
I can work with you on a setup that will suit your tastes as also not break your bank LONG TERM. These parts are an investment, but if you settle for less, you will spend that money in time or labor down the road.
Soon to come, a new upper control arm as well and a lot more bushing replacements. On an aging car unfortunately there is a lot of dry rot and rubber gone bad, keep this in mind when you are making your suspension selection.
Fig
I will give you a short summary and contact me with any questions.
Lowering on stock shocks more than 1/2" means the shock is operating in its end condition more. This is where it close to compressing the internal fluid at the end of the travel, this leads to increased seal pressure and premature failure. They will last, but you will be hopping soon enough. Adjustable coilovers allow you to operate in the shocks intended travel range and adjust ride height to suit with a completly separate adjustment.
EVERYTHING WEARS OUT, so just remember no matter which route you go, you will never be done spending money if you choose to drive the car.
The MEGA arms are not just a camber kit, "Camber Kit" is so generic and can mean anything from eccentric bolts to a completely new suspension. MEGA arms are just that, a complete control arm that is optimised to give you adjustment when your car is lowered. Not just in camber, but also in shock angle alignment, sway endlink adjustment and not to mention they replace and rubber bushing that is staked in place and adds another undamped spring. MEGA arms allow the suspension to locate quickly, respond faster and that gets back to another goal you probably had, making the car drive better.
I can work with you on a setup that will suit your tastes as also not break your bank LONG TERM. These parts are an investment, but if you settle for less, you will spend that money in time or labor down the road.
Soon to come, a new upper control arm as well and a lot more bushing replacements. On an aging car unfortunately there is a lot of dry rot and rubber gone bad, keep this in mind when you are making your suspension selection.
Fig
06-27-12, 04:58 PM
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Here's a quote of the man himself:
Here's a link to his site: http://shopfigs.com/v1/FIGS%20MEGA%2...20EE%20VERSION. I highly recommend his toe links as well. After a certain point, the OEM rear toe adjustment will not be able to compensate for the camber correction provided by the mega arms. If you can't correct camber anymore because your toe will be off, what's the point? You should contact Mike (Fig), and see what he can do for you. Sometimes he can work a deal if you buy multiple items at the same time. Depending on how low your car is, he might need to customize the arms for your setup. If you didn't know, Mike is a vendor over here and my.IS.
Here's a link to his site: http://shopfigs.com/v1/FIGS%20MEGA%2...20EE%20VERSION. I highly recommend his toe links as well. After a certain point, the OEM rear toe adjustment will not be able to compensate for the camber correction provided by the mega arms. If you can't correct camber anymore because your toe will be off, what's the point? You should contact Mike (Fig), and see what he can do for you. Sometimes he can work a deal if you buy multiple items at the same time. Depending on how low your car is, he might need to customize the arms for your setup. If you didn't know, Mike is a vendor over here and my.IS.