Just changed my oil - insight
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: South Florida
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not really too bad, but harder than alot of cars. The first thing is lowering down the aero panel about 6 screws (10 mm). Then you can easily reach the oil filter. Also with out lowering the panel the oil from the drain plug will probably at first get up on the underside of the aero panel. The previous Lexus Tech had the filter on very tight which is usually the case. I had to loosen it with a filter wrench. Then I began to spin it off by hand. When I got close I slipped a baggie around it (advice from this board) and the baggie caught the oil which would have dripped all over. Previous Lexus Techs had dumped oil and it took me some time to wipe up the frame and engine area using rags and degreaser. I filled the new filter about half way with fresh oil before I spun it on. Any more and it would have spilled because of the angle the filter sits at. Also the oil filler on top of the valve cover does not allow a funnel to be put in. There is a sheet metal piece covering the opening. I believe this is done to reduce engine noise and would also prevent objects from getting into the valve train. I then added 5.7 total quarts of 5W-30 oil and I was done. While I had it up on jacks I inspected and cleaned the underneath. Interestingly the IS uses 2 seperate drive shafts with a universal joint in-between (reduce vibration?). The whole underneath is also covered with plastic aero panels. I cleaned the panels and applied Armor All to them. I also took the time to wipe down the steering linkage rubber boots and apply silicone to them and the other rubber components. "A clean car is a happy car"
#5
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: California
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For those you/us that plan on changing our own oil, another little tip is to wipe a little new oil on the o-ring at the bussiness end of the new filter, this will keep the o-ring, (essentially a seal between the oil and engine block), from bunching up end/or ripping the o-ring when tightening it down.
I will use Mobil 1 when it comes time to change oil myself. Synthetic is "cleaner" oil if you will, and lasts much longer than conventional oil due to it not losing it's additive package as quickly. It's more expensive, but worth it too me since I will have the car for a long time.
I will use Mobil 1 when it comes time to change oil myself. Synthetic is "cleaner" oil if you will, and lasts much longer than conventional oil due to it not losing it's additive package as quickly. It's more expensive, but worth it too me since I will have the car for a long time.
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: South Florida
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oil Filter
Good point Kanine21 about wiping a little fresh oil on the new filters gasket. Also take a second to wipe the area the filter gasket seats with a clean rag.
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
good tips for the oil change
you guys might be interested in Mobil 1 0-30wt synthetic, I use it in my M3 and I absolutely love it. It can be used all the way down to -60 degrees and all the way past 400.
It also seems to restore a little lost power (buttdyno tested approved!)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
alpinefun
ES - 6th Gen (2013-2018)
4
10-09-19 10:58 PM
Scott1258
RX - 1st Gen (1999-2003)
3
07-11-07 05:46 PM