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Hybrid TechnologyUnique topics related to the 2010 - 2015 RX450H model hybrid drivetrain and other features/options found only on the RX450H. Please use the main forum for discussion about shared components with other third generation RX models.
Sampav, based on my research this is the same issue with the 2011+ highlander hybrids. Our cars use the same batteries. I went to batteries plus, sears, Costco, Sam's, interstate and no one had anything. Everyone said your best bet is the dealer. Interstate were the only ones who offered an alternative but even they said if it was them they'd go to the dealer. Interstate said the optima 51r will fit but it was going to be $250 and would take about 3wks to get in. It has a lower CCA and a lower capacity. For $30 more I will just buy the battery from the dealership. Both the local Lexus and Toyota dealership sells them for $280 + tax with no core charge.
I'm in total agreement that $300 for a battery is nuts. I thought I could find a third party AGM for ~$200 and would be more than happy to pay that but if it's only $30 savings and a lower spec battery I will go with the OEM. I need the higher performance battery for those cold winters we have up here even though this battery doesn't need to "crank" the motor.
You can always just order the battery from MyLparts... for a LOT LESS MONEY!
Also, from the searches I've done to-date, I believe that the CCA spec for this abttery is only something like 360 Cold Cranking Amps, and almost any battery which fits the available space in the cargo area will have more starting power than that and work just fine. I'm trying to find the Lexus spec in writing to verify my memory, and will post once I locate that document again.
There are a number of build configurations for automotive batteries (where the posts are mounted relative to where your cables reach. I would suggest that you open the cover and sketch out your stock battery configuration, complete with post positions and dimensions, and use the max dimensions and CCA rating listed below and take that information with you to the store to verify fitment before purchasing (unless, of course, you're going to the dealer).
JIS Group Size/Type is S55D23L, Minimum CCA of 360
MAXIMUM DIMENSIONS for our JIS Group Size are 232 mm Long x 173 mm Wide x 225 mm High
Interpretation of the above Group Size/Type S55D23L coding is as follows:
S = OE battery valve regulated lead battery
55 = Performance ranking
D = Classification by Battery width x Container Height
23 = Appropriate battery length in mm when multiplied by 10
L = Reverse Polarity = L (Right Hand Front Positive Termination) ... Last letter designates Polarity: Standard Polarity = R (Left Hand Front Positive Termination), and Reverse Polarity = L (Right Hand Front Positive Termination)
The FOOT NOTES for our battery are as follows:
44 - w/o HBL (Heated Back Light, or rear window defrost) but with ETR (Electronic Tuning Radio), Travel Computer Cluster or Audible Message Center
55 - Battery may require vent hose
67 - Vehicle computer system must be reset, contact your service specialist
69 - AGM Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) is required
A VRLA battery (valve-regulated lead-acid battery), more commonly known as a sealed lead-acid (SLA), gel cell, or maintenance free battery, is a type of lead-acid rechargeable battery. Due to their construction, the Gel and AGM types of VRLA can be mounted in any orientation, and do not require constant maintenance.
EDIT... link to myLParts for a replacement battery has been removed due to error in the initial posting.
F250, thanks for the heads up on MyLparts. Screen shot you provided is not the correct battery. I think that is the standard battery for the RX350. My initial phone call to the local Lexus dealer I was also quoted a fairly reasonable ~$120. When I asked him to double check he then gave me the $280. If you search PN 28800-31290 on MyLparts it returns a more reasonable $226. I placed my order tonight. Thank you again for the heads up.
I just went by what was listed for the auxiliary battery for the 450h as indicated in the upper right hand corner of the screen shot. Good to know that the actual part number is different.
Curiosity... did the dealer tell you what was different between the two batteries they quoted (Amp-hr rating, CCA, dimensions, sealed or not, etc)?
CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is almost meaningless for our 12V batteries since they don't crank the engine.
Looks like some posters didn't see my post 09-02-16 04:04 PM where I note the Optima D51R 8073-167 (Yellow) works fine and is $180.
CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is almost meaningless for our 12V batteries since they don't crank the engine.
Looks like some posters didn't see my post 09-02-16 04:04 PM where I note the Optima D51R 8073-167 (Yellow) works fine and is $180.
Jonas
Let me learn something here.
From what you just shared, I have to assume it's the main hybrid battery bank which powers the engine starter, correct?
As for your earlier post, I saw it, but was still thinking along the lines of not compromising on the CCA ratings for the replacement OEM battery based upon the battery specification links I provided.
F250, I did not ask the Lexus parts guy what the differences were between the two batteries. Also MyLparts does not ship batteries. My order was cancelled last night.
jrfiero, I did mention in my post above that Interstate Battery notified me the Optima 51R would fit however they said the specs on that battery were lower than OEM and it was going to cost me $250, and it was backordered for ~3wks. For $30 more I could get a battery with higher specs which I think its worth it for the cold winters.
Although the 12V battery doesn't "crank" our motor to start our cars, there is still a significant amperage draw on the battery to start up the computer and other electrical systems. If you read the owners manual for jump starting the RX it specifically tells you to rev the jumping car for 5 minutes and keep it rev'd while trying to start the RX. I initially did not do that and was not able to get the RX started. This tells me there is a significant amperage draw on the 12V battery to startup the systems. The main traction battery starts up the engine with MG1/2 once the computer systems have started. This is no different then when you're stopped at a stoplight and the engine stops for a minute until you hit the gas pedal. All taken care of by the traction battery and MG1/2
Thanks for the explanation, smokey. I've still got LOTS to learn about these hybrids, but I'm taking my time so I can internalize and remember as much as possible. Sort of like peeling an onion... get to one layer, break it open and peel it off, recover from that process, and proceed to the next layer.
I've only had my 2010 450h for a few weeks now, but it seems to me that what we are looking for is a deep-cycle battery, not one built for cranking. The two design internals are considerably different and the starting batteries absolutely HATE to be deep-discharged so much that doing so several times will greatly shorten their life.
I was at Costco yesterday and a deep-cycle battery is only about $75, but the posts are switched and I don't know if the thing would physically fit. Also no sealed design and no external vent.
I had the radio on the other day while I was trying on some tire chains and I guess I had the system in the wrong mode (headlights were on also) because the 12v battery died after only about one hour of use. Very surprised at the short interval, though perhaps this battery was the original one and is nearing the end of its life. Fortunately I was able to do a jump with the wife's car parked alongside, but it got me thinking: there is no warning the system will give before the battery quits, unlike in a conventional car where cranking will take place more slowly and/or the headlights will dim. So to guard against something like this happening ever again, I bought one of those portable jump-starters. No bigger than a paperback but filled with Li-Ion cells that can tolerate a very high current draw for a few seconds. In theory it should be a piece of cake to hook this thing up to the 12v battery via the terminals under the hood and be back in business in 5 minutes. We'll see. This particular unit was only $40 from Walmart and they claim it starts a regular car, so our application should be a trivial matter to it. Consumer Reports has raved about these things, though the ones they tested ranged upwards of $100.
I think that we would typically NOT need a deep discharge friendly battery, at least not most of us, anyway. I know that I don't need it because I don't put it under those kinds of strains. While idling at a stop design or traffic light or heavy traffic, the system will start the engine automatically if the battery is getting low and then the charging takes place while the gas engine runs.
I had posted looking for a battery back in March. I'm in Canada, and tried everywhere to look for the battery for my 2010 RX450h and did not have any luck whatsoever. No retail store carries the battery for the 2010+ RX450h. Canadian Tire the big national chain had similar size AGM batteries, however they advised if the battery is put into a vehicle it is not intended for, they will not warranty the battery at all. I also read somewhere that putting in a regular battery can cause a hydrogen vapour to occur, which can cause fire (not sure how true that is). I visited several part suppliers who supply to my local automotive mechanics, they also had nothing, and even my mechanic friend said to get it from the dealer. I did inquire about the Optima from my him, and he insisted that in this case I should get it from the dealer, and not because he didn't want my money.
Now that the weather is getting colder again, I know my RX will have trouble for sure, since it already hesitated to start here and there in the summer. In my RXh I have to hold down the Start button for several seconds, or wait a second time, and there is a delay before READY would appear on the dash.
Yesterday, I finally shelled out the ridiculous amount ($500.00 w/ tax) for the OEM battery and installed it myself, to save some cost.
I did not want to get into the whole things getting reset, followed Cruiter's advice (on the first page of this thread) and changed the battery with the vehicle running. However, I connected a jumper pack directly to the battery terminals in the trunk, and not the jump start points under the hood.
The whole process is as follows:
1. Connect Booster, turn on Booster;
2. Loosened up the 10mm bolts;
3. Started the vehicle;
4. Removed the connection from terminals;
5. Carefully placed the cables so nothing gets shorted out, (a second pair of hands is great for this part, but not necessary)
6. Remove the old battery;
7. Put in the new battery;
8. Connect the wires to the terminals;
9. Tighten up the terminals;
10. Turn off Booster and remove the Booster;
11. Let the vehicle run for 2 minutes,
12. Shut it all down.
13. Go inside and enjoy your a beverage of your choosing.
The whole process took a very short time, and the only tools I used were a 10mm wrench, and 10mm deep socket with an extension on a 1/4" rachet.
Now the READY shows up immediately after the pushing the push button, and even before the rest of the lights have had a chance to go away.
I know buying the battery caused me financial stress, simply because it is soooooooooooo over priced, but getting a call from the wife that she is stranded with the little ones somewhere would have come with far greater emotional stress, (which she probably wouldn't have let down for the next few weeks). A proactive battery change equal happy wife, a reactive battery change equals "Is it going to start this time? I don't trust this car anymore."
The box the battery came in has the number 28800-31290, other info on the battery are 20HR 51Ah CCA355A D23
It's not a whole lot of CCA, but then again the battery doesn't start the engine as per my understanding.
09-24-16, 05:14 PM
