That's interesting. I agree with your ratings for the stock system prior to adding Dynamat, but after doing that, I've found that my biggest issue is with the tweeters, not the mids. I'm thoroughly impressed with the difference to mid-bass and road noise simply by adding the sound dampening. Of course, I'm considering upgrades, so there is obviously still room for improvement. I like the Infinity components you used, but would like to keep the factory amp just because I'm trying to avoid adding a separate amp. Might go with these Kappa series that have a little higher sensitivity (which is good for low powered setups like the stock amp in the HS):
I was curious what it would take to replace the sub (and doing some more Dynamatting in the back), so I took out the rear seat to assess. The rear seat came out surprisingly easily, but the rear deck looks like a pain. I looked at it for a while, but I can't tell how that back panel is held on. It looks different from the type of clips I'm used to seeing on those back panels. I went after it pretty well and couldn't get it to budge. There's also the battery back and motor back there and I was a little leery about the high voltage pieces. If you figure out how it comes off, I'd be very interested. By the way, the back seat (both pieces) come out like this:
1. Rear bench - pull up on each from corner to unclip.
2. At the same time, push towards the back of the car and down on the rear bench to unclip the back part of the bench and it will come right out.
3. Use a small screwdriver or pick to unclip rear seatbelt guides and pull seatbelts free. Also remove the headrests.
4. Remove 4 bolts on the bottom of the seat back, I think they were 12mm.
5. Push up to unhook seat back and it will pull right out.
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I too added dynamat to the doors and noticed a significant reduction in road noise. I changed out the stock speakers as well and the sound has definitely improved. I will be adding a 4 channel amp that I have as the new speakers are definitely under-powered.
If I add the amp by splicing into the center plug feeding the stock amp as described in an earlier post, will the stock sub (which I am not replacing) lose its power source? Any info on how to keep the sub powered would be greatly appreciated.
SInce you're splicing the output wires from the built in amp, i'm assuming one of those are specifically for the sub. So as long as you only splice the 8 wires belonging to the 4 speakers, the sub should still work.
I was actually wondering about the input wires on the factory amp. I thought I would be splicing the wires before they go to the factory amp and feed them to my aftermarket amp and then back to the output wires from the factory amp (and obviously onto the speakers). Is there a dedicated sub wire coming into the factory amp that I can leave connected to the factory amp (which would keep the sub powered and running off the factory amp)?
The sound improvement is marginally better. It is better, but not sure it was worth the 3 hour job of removing the seats, drilling new mount holes, etc.. Even with an amp capable of powering the speaker just 2 feet away, it still didn't seem worth it. But I'm a picky listener and may need to play with the crossover a little bit. I'll report back.
I gave up on the dash cover for the speaker and just used a screwdriver to hold the thing up (pic). Too many seatbelt configurations to have to undue.