mogulbumm

This has been discussed before, but I thought I'd post pictures of the DVD Override option. I would like to thank Scott of La Jolla Audio in advance for pointing out the correct wires. I chose to install a switch in the blank next to the "Second Start" button so that I can set it back to default (in case Smokey pulls us over).

Disclaimer: I in NO WAY condone watching DVD movies while driving. If you are preforming this mod for this reason, please let me know when and where you drive so I can stay the hell off the road. I performed this modification so those passengers in the front seat could enjoy the DVD and have control over the screen for children in the rear who cannot yet operate a remote control. I do not find this any more of a distraction than the NAV system. If you think this is a bad idea, please don't continue reading this post.

Tools you will need:
1. Wire cutters/Wire Stripper
2. Pry tool (I used a small putty knife)
3. Drill (if you are installing the switch)
4. Beer
5. Socket Wrench
6. Twist Connectors, Electrical Tape, or Solder/Soldering iron if you feel fancy
7. Beer
8. Light gauge wire

Time Required:
Professional Installer: 20 minutes
Semi-skilled Labor: 45 minutes
Technically Retarded: 5+ hours with no completed product.

Total Cost:
$6.79 from Radio Shack including switch and wire. Hundreds of dollars if you fall into the third category.

(note: Ignore the dust in my pictures... my car is really not that dirty... damn 5mp camera picks up EVERYTHING...)

Step 1: Remove the bottom plasic mouldings that start just below the wood trim on the sides of the NAV. The easiest way is to use a flat object (like a putty knife) with a cloth over it to protect against marking anything. Once you begin to pry it up, you can just pull since the entire piece is held on via tension clips.

mogulbumm

Step 2: Pull off wood side trim. I pulled from the bottom. Again, it is held on via tension clips so a little force is all you need.

Note: "A" is a wire harness that goes to the hazard lights on the left and "B" is a wire harness that goes to the passenger seat belt light on the right. Disconnect these to make it easier to work.

mogulbumm

Step 3. Remove bottom section (with Ashtray and lighter) buy pulling backwards (again, tension clips... Lexus just makes it soooo easy for us). You will need to remove the wiring harness attached to this as well so you can place this piece out of the way. Note the circle where I had run the wires through the blank next to the "Second Start"

mogulbumm

Step 4: Use socket wrench (you may need a 4" extension) to unscrew the 4 hex bolts/screws holding the Nav system in place. Remove the entire screen unit by pulling back toward you. You do not have to pull it out very far to have full access to the rear to get to the wires. I put a towel on my shifter to rest the unit against. There are (4) wire harness connections to the back of the screen. You want to remove the second one (circled) to access the appropriate wires.

mogulbumm

Step 6: The two wires you need access to are the Violet wire with red stripe on pin #5 and the light green wire on pin #13. If you will not be using a switch, cut the violet/red wire and tape the ends, then cut the light green wire and ground the part that goes to the screen. This will simulate the parking brake.

If you choose to use a switch, run 4 wires (2 for each side of the wires) to the blank next to "Second Start". I chose to use twist connectors on this install to make it easier to revert back to factory settings when I return my lease. "A" shows my splice on the screen side, "B" shows the splice on the vehicle side, and "C" shows my 4-wire run (one cable) which goes to the blank.

mogulbumm

Step 7: Drink Beer.

mogulbumm

Step 8: Install Switch. You can use a simple double-pole, double-throw switch from Radio Shack (about $3). They fit perfectly in the blank (there are several types). My switch is below. I chose solder the connections on the rear of the switch since they are very close together and didn't want inadvertent grounding/crossing of wires.

Wire the leads from the screen to the "common" section of the switch. On one side of the switch, wire the corresponding wires from the vehicle side so when the switch is "on" the screen is set to factory default. On the other side of the switch (green wire only for e-brake), wire a ground wire. I used one of the screws on the side of the radio to make for a short run.

Note: Even though I used a 4-cable run, you need a 5th lead for the ground wire to ground the e-brake lead.

Here is my completed switch:

mogulbumm

Step 9: Reassemble everything in reverse. This part should take all of 5 minutes. Lexus makes everything so that it snaps right back together nicely.

Step 10: Sit back with another beer and enjoy your work!

Remember: PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do not use this to watch DVDs while driving. Cell phones and coffee are bad enough. Good Luck!

looknow12

2 questions.

1) You mentioned bypassing two wires, but only mentioned the parking brake. Is one wire for the speed sensor and the other for the parking brake. I am assuming this to be the case, but wanted to confirm.

2) Do you notice any issues with the navigation system. The disconnecting this speed sensor might adversely affect it.


Thanks,

0260n5.7

mogulbumm,

GREAT Writeup! Thanks for the info. We don't have NAV on Guam but just thought I'd give credit where credit is due. I LMAO when I read the beer in the "tools" section. I'll be installing some monitors this weekend. I'll try to do a writeup as detailed as yours.

MAC

mogulbumm

Hi Looknow12,

Yes, there are two wires you need to bypass. The light green is for the parking brake, the violet/red is the speed sensor cable. Technically, you only need to cut the speed sensor, but I like having the switch. If you simply cut the parking brake, you will never have DVD on the front screen, so you have to ground the parking brake lead that goes to the actual screen. Again, the double-pole, double-throw switch allows for two positions on the parking brake lead, one to connect them together (factory default) and one to ground the lead to the screen.

Regarding your other question, I did confirm that neither of these two wires has any affect on the navigation system. There is a completely separate speed sensor lead to the navigation system itself. The one that goes to the screen is simply a screen cut-off for safety measure (which we bypass )

I have gone so far as to go through a tunnel to make sure that the nav system still tracks via speed in absence of a satellite signal.

Another note: I was hoping that this would allow you to enter NAV destinations without stopping, but it unfortunately does not. Oh well...

mogulbumm

Ah yes... Beer is a necessity when performing any manly function like yard word or simply taking things apart that you don't quite understand. It is often accompanied by butt-crack in the various trades, but I opt against that...

It is also required when taking wire cutters to the perfectly good wiring harness behind the NAV on your new $50K+ vehicle...

looknow12

That is probably controlled by the nav speed sensing wire. Hmmm. What wire is that NAV speed sensing wire again? It might be interesting to put that on a switch. Turn the switch off, enter the destination, and then turn the switch back on. What could be better!!! :-)

Thanks for taking the time out. The instructions are very nicely laid out. I will keep my beer on the floor of the garage. Don't want to spill =)

mogulbumm

The speed sensing wire that goes to the screen will NOT affect you being able to enter destinations on the move. I have tried it. I think you may have to interrupt the speed sensing wire that goes to the actual NAV unit itself and I have no idea which one that is or the best way to get to it. I'm not sure that I want to cut that anyway since it may affect more than just the Nav, even if it is on a switch. Who knows... it may also control fuel consumption estimates, etc...

Anybody willing to guinea pig on this one?

looknow12

The directions worked. Took me a bit longer because I bought a switch (probably the exact same as yours) that need to be soldered and could not find me soldering iron. Left the wires there and grounded the parking brake sensor for now.