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Then a few days ago it started again in the mornings, then would go away after a few minutes. Today it was accompanied by a set of scary lights, which stay on when it's running.
Still runs fine. Don't want to get into a shop without any idea what this could be. Any ideas would be appreciated!
Mileage is 189k. Very well cared for. I should mention that I turned the AC (and fans) off and that had no affect.
Found a lot of info about these codes online. Appears to be a problem extending to the Tundra, Sequoia, 4Runner, Landcruiser, FJ, and Tacoma. Toyota even extended the warranty to 150k miles and 10 years on this $4k problem.
Anyway, I'm at 189k so likely won't get any love from Toyota. But there are a number of fixes I found:
1) Get a $85 GM part that fits it fine and essentially makes it work as intended.
Decided to go with the oem replacement parts. My local mechanic says I need an exhaust manifold gasket set ($50), and said it would take about 3 hours, or $300.
The price is ballooning. Reconsidering... Has anyone performed this bypass procedure? What about emissions tests? NC has people hooking cars up to computers.
If he is going to do all of that for $300 I would go for it. But with 189k on it, I would do the GM pump in a heartbeat. I would also have him replace the starter while he is in there. You do need the manifold gaskets.
what is ballooning? price on amazon looks like its $85.
if you need to take the exhaust off then the gasket should be changed whether or not you install a new module or the block off plates, and since they go bad on every 4.7L motor its not a bad idea to just do it anyways.
just asking about installing the modulator makes me think you are talking about not putting in the plates or a new unit but the module to get rid of codes and leave the bad one in place? that would be the worst idea ever. installing the module helps with the codes but is not a smart idea if one were to just leave the original unit in place.
what happens when the valve fails in the completely open position (Which it can) and leads to the whole thing overheating (Which it does) and can cause a fire (which it can). best case scenario you save a couple bucks, worst case scenario you need a new motor, or even a new suv depending on how it fails and how long it stays that way. obviously this is over cautious advice but when bypassing it will never show the code so its easy to forget and eventually it can become dangerous. if there is no light you will forget about it, which is why you would def want to remove the faulty unit and install the plates when not replacing with another new unit.
doing the plates and the module would be an acceptable fix cause the block off plates ensure there is no danger anymore of a faulty valve, but technically speaking its missing that emissions component, but computer will be happy cause of the module and engine will be happy cause of the plates, they work together.
if you cannot fathom it happening again then do the module and plates, if you rather have it operate like stock $85 isn't that bad and it will probably last as long as the first one did, not a bad option to keep it stock.
If he is going to do all of that for $300 I would go for it. But with 189k on it, I would do the GM pump in a heartbeat. I would also have him replace the starter while he is in there. You do need the manifold gaskets.
Okay I'll do the starter. It's never had one. Is there one you recommend?
As far as the gm part, to which are you referring? I saw two part numbers in that post, the oem one (carbone refurb, which one local mechanic says is good), and the Dorman Part# 306-010, which is actually only half of the whole assembly according to the pic. Figured that wouldn't be worthwhile if it bumps up labor charges (I assumed).
I looked up the dorman one you listed, didn't realize it was just half of it, maybe you can reuse your lower stock portion but I haven't done it so not sure about that.
looks like you can get the OEM one though from that thread which has both halves.
post 15 gives a great view of the pump and its sitting in the intake valley, so clearly the intake manfiold gaskets need to come off, I doubt the exhaust is actually touched at all so mechanic might have that confused.
I would definately replace the starter contacts while in there, look its right there, and its a lot of labor to get down to this point so $300 is a bargain I would say.
even if the pump never failed you would still need to pay the labor to replace the starter contacts which happens sooner or later for everyone. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...-air-pump.html
on page 2 of that thread he said he used the dorman part and it worked so not sure whats going on with the lower half not in the dorman picture.
what is ballooning? price on amazon looks like its $85.
...
just asking about installing the modulator makes me think you are talking about not putting in the plates or a new unit but the module to get rid of codes and leave the bad one in place? that would be the worst idea ever.
Ballooning meaning the whole thing with labor. Pushing $600 vs $250 for the bypass option.
Not sure what you mean about not using plates or some half-baked solution. Perhaps I wasn't clear? I was asking about two solutions, to perform the oem part (stock), or the bypass kit.
Originally Posted by Ali SC3
...clearly the intake manfiold gaskets need to come off, I doubt the exhaust is actually touched at all so mechanic might have that confused.
...
on page 2 of that thread he said he used the dorman part and it worked so not sure whats going on with the lower half not in the dorman picture.
My mistake. He told me the intake gaskets but I searched part of the term and ended up seeing exhaust manifold gasket and I just failed there. Excuse my auto-noobness. Glad you caught that else I would have showed up with the wrong part!
It pays to run all this by you guys...
His pics show how he took the pumps apart himself and put them together. It was the Amazon and other pics that gave me pause.
Best prices I found so are from partsgeek. They sell Bosch and Denso ones for $105-7. Kind of a pain to have to ship the core back for the deposit. Great prices compared to everyone else. Odd that they use proprietary stock numbers, though. That concerns me.
03-26-15, 08:16 PM
First came the scary noise, then the scary lights.
