So you drive a GX, what's your other car?
#22
[Its a combo of Polish, Sealant, Glaze and Waxes
3m Polish & Menzerna Polish
PoorBoys BlackHole Glaze
PoorBoys Sealant
PoorBoys Nattys Blue Paste Wax combined with Mequiars High Tech Yellow #26 wax
My complete paint correction process:
1. I WASH the car here at home with a soft water system or you can go to a car wash where they have a reverse osmosis systems.
2. Pinnacle Clay Bar - Clay bar entire car while wet from washing and then rinse again.
3. Dry Car with electric leaf blower. Blow water in a downward motion away from car instead of direct blowing or simply use multiple large micro fiber towels.
4. Polish - This is the most critical process. I use the dual action rotary Porter Cable 7424 to polish the car with the Menzerna PO91E Intense Polish & white cut pad at speed 3 and then work up to speed 5 or 6 once polish has broken down. Next, I remove polish with micro fiber towel. I then follow up with a finishing polish called (Menzerna PO85RD or the 3M Ultra-Fina SE) at speed 3 or 4 to break down polish and then move to speed 5 and 6 with the blue finesse pad. This polish removes and cleans up the fine 2500 grit scratches from the previous PO91E polish work. I remove the PO85RD or 3M Ultra-Fina SE with micro fiber towel.
* Wipe the car down with IPA (50% clear rubbing alcohol & 50% distilled water)
* Give car a quick rinse down/wash after polish & IPA to remove dust & excess polish out of the cracks, plus it remove oils from the Menzerna 85RD or #M Ultra Fina SE…. then dry.
5. PoorBoys Black Hole Glaze (black car product) apply with grey polish pad at speed 4 or 5 and remove with 3m micro fiber towel (the glaze process/step is debatable by some detailers, but it looks and works great for some, but with good polish its not really needed)
6. Sealant.. I use Poor Boys Pure EX-P Sealant with the grey pad at speed 4 or 5 and remove it with another clean grey polish pad at speed 5 or 6. Allow sealant to cure for apprpx. 1 to 1.5 hrs before proceeding to step 7.
7. PoorBoys Nattys Blue Paste Wax (black car product) applied by hand and removed with another 3m micro fiber towel. Allow Nattys Blue Wax to cure for approx. 30 minutes before proceeding to step 8
8.Meguiars Hi-tech Yellow Hard Wax #26 applied by hand and removed with another 3M micro fiber towel. This Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow#26 is a hard wax in my opinion and really makes a difference, but only if you follow the earlier steps.
9.I use another clean blue finesse pad at speed 5 to go over the car to make sure all wax residue is removed
I also use halogen lights to detect any scratched after my polish work. The pic below if a reflection off of the rear quarter panel
3m Polish & Menzerna Polish
PoorBoys BlackHole Glaze
PoorBoys Sealant
PoorBoys Nattys Blue Paste Wax combined with Mequiars High Tech Yellow #26 wax
My complete paint correction process:
1. I WASH the car here at home with a soft water system or you can go to a car wash where they have a reverse osmosis systems.
2. Pinnacle Clay Bar - Clay bar entire car while wet from washing and then rinse again.
3. Dry Car with electric leaf blower. Blow water in a downward motion away from car instead of direct blowing or simply use multiple large micro fiber towels.
4. Polish - This is the most critical process. I use the dual action rotary Porter Cable 7424 to polish the car with the Menzerna PO91E Intense Polish & white cut pad at speed 3 and then work up to speed 5 or 6 once polish has broken down. Next, I remove polish with micro fiber towel. I then follow up with a finishing polish called (Menzerna PO85RD or the 3M Ultra-Fina SE) at speed 3 or 4 to break down polish and then move to speed 5 and 6 with the blue finesse pad. This polish removes and cleans up the fine 2500 grit scratches from the previous PO91E polish work. I remove the PO85RD or 3M Ultra-Fina SE with micro fiber towel.
* Wipe the car down with IPA (50% clear rubbing alcohol & 50% distilled water)
* Give car a quick rinse down/wash after polish & IPA to remove dust & excess polish out of the cracks, plus it remove oils from the Menzerna 85RD or #M Ultra Fina SE…. then dry.
5. PoorBoys Black Hole Glaze (black car product) apply with grey polish pad at speed 4 or 5 and remove with 3m micro fiber towel (the glaze process/step is debatable by some detailers, but it looks and works great for some, but with good polish its not really needed)
6. Sealant.. I use Poor Boys Pure EX-P Sealant with the grey pad at speed 4 or 5 and remove it with another clean grey polish pad at speed 5 or 6. Allow sealant to cure for apprpx. 1 to 1.5 hrs before proceeding to step 7.
7. PoorBoys Nattys Blue Paste Wax (black car product) applied by hand and removed with another 3m micro fiber towel. Allow Nattys Blue Wax to cure for approx. 30 minutes before proceeding to step 8
8.Meguiars Hi-tech Yellow Hard Wax #26 applied by hand and removed with another 3M micro fiber towel. This Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow#26 is a hard wax in my opinion and really makes a difference, but only if you follow the earlier steps.
9.I use another clean blue finesse pad at speed 5 to go over the car to make sure all wax residue is removed
I also use halogen lights to detect any scratched after my polish work. The pic below if a reflection off of the rear quarter panel
Last edited by UpStarr; 01-20-15 at 05:18 PM.
#23
Driver School Candidate
In addition to the GX, I have a...
Mustang collection (4 in various conditions)
'95 Ext Cab Ford Ranger (my daily driver)
'96 V8 Grand Cherokee (mudder)
'05 V8 4Runner SR5 (kid's ride)
'14 Nissan Altima 2.5 SV (wife's ride)
I drive the GX to work on Fridays and cruise on weekends. Love that thing!!
Mustang collection (4 in various conditions)
'95 Ext Cab Ford Ranger (my daily driver)
'96 V8 Grand Cherokee (mudder)
'05 V8 4Runner SR5 (kid's ride)
'14 Nissan Altima 2.5 SV (wife's ride)
I drive the GX to work on Fridays and cruise on weekends. Love that thing!!
#24
[
Its a combo of Polish, Sealant, Glaze and Waxes
3m Polish & Menzerna Polish
PoorBoys BlackHole Glaze
PoorBoys Sealant
PoorBoys Nattys Blue Paste Wax combined with Mequiars High Tech Yellow #26 wax
My complete paint correction process:
1. I WASH the car here at home with a soft water system or you can go to a car wash where they have a reverse osmosis systems.
2. Pinnacle Clay Bar - Clay bar entire car while wet from washing and then rinse again.
3. Dry Car with electric leaf blower. Blow water in a downward motion away from car instead of direct blowing or simply use multiple large micro fiber towels.
4. Polish - This is the most critical process. I use the dual action rotary Porter Cable 7424 to polish the car with the Menzerna PO91E Intense Polish & white cut pad at speed 3 and then work up to speed 5 or 6 once polish has broken down. Next, I remove polish with micro fiber towel. I then follow up with a finishing polish called (Menzerna PO85RD or the 3M Ultra-Fina SE) at speed 3 or 4 to break down polish and then move to speed 5 and 6 with the blue finesse pad. This polish removes and cleans up the fine 2500 grit scratches from the previous PO91E polish work. I remove the PO85RD or 3M Ultra-Fina SE with micro fiber towel.
* Wipe the car down with IPA (50% clear rubbing alcohol & 50% distilled water)
* Give car a quick rinse down/wash after polish & IPA to remove dust & excess polish out of the cracks, plus it remove oils from the Menzerna 85RD or #M Ultra Fina SE…. then dry.
5. PoorBoys Black Hole Glaze (black car product) apply with grey polish pad at speed 4 or 5 and remove with 3m micro fiber towel (the glaze process/step is debatable by some detailers, but it looks and works great for some, but with good polish its not really needed)
6. Sealant.. I use Poor Boys Pure EX-P Sealant with the grey pad at speed 4 or 5 and remove it with another clean grey polish pad at speed 5 or 6. Allow sealant to cure for apprpx. 1 to 1.5 hrs before proceeding to step 7.
7. PoorBoys Nattys Blue Paste Wax (black car product) applied by hand and removed with another 3m micro fiber towel. Allow Nattys Blue Wax to cure for approx. 30 minutes before proceeding to step 8
8.Meguiars Hi-tech Yellow Hard Wax #26 applied by hand and removed with another 3M micro fiber towel. This Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow#26 is a hard wax in my opinion and really makes a difference, but only if you follow the earlier steps.
9.I use another clean blue finesse pad at speed 5 to go over the car to make sure all wax residue is removed
I also use halogen lights to detect any scratched after my polish work. The pic below if a reflection off of the rear quarter panel
Its a combo of Polish, Sealant, Glaze and Waxes
3m Polish & Menzerna Polish
PoorBoys BlackHole Glaze
PoorBoys Sealant
PoorBoys Nattys Blue Paste Wax combined with Mequiars High Tech Yellow #26 wax
My complete paint correction process:
1. I WASH the car here at home with a soft water system or you can go to a car wash where they have a reverse osmosis systems.
2. Pinnacle Clay Bar - Clay bar entire car while wet from washing and then rinse again.
3. Dry Car with electric leaf blower. Blow water in a downward motion away from car instead of direct blowing or simply use multiple large micro fiber towels.
4. Polish - This is the most critical process. I use the dual action rotary Porter Cable 7424 to polish the car with the Menzerna PO91E Intense Polish & white cut pad at speed 3 and then work up to speed 5 or 6 once polish has broken down. Next, I remove polish with micro fiber towel. I then follow up with a finishing polish called (Menzerna PO85RD or the 3M Ultra-Fina SE) at speed 3 or 4 to break down polish and then move to speed 5 and 6 with the blue finesse pad. This polish removes and cleans up the fine 2500 grit scratches from the previous PO91E polish work. I remove the PO85RD or 3M Ultra-Fina SE with micro fiber towel.
* Wipe the car down with IPA (50% clear rubbing alcohol & 50% distilled water)
* Give car a quick rinse down/wash after polish & IPA to remove dust & excess polish out of the cracks, plus it remove oils from the Menzerna 85RD or #M Ultra Fina SE…. then dry.
5. PoorBoys Black Hole Glaze (black car product) apply with grey polish pad at speed 4 or 5 and remove with 3m micro fiber towel (the glaze process/step is debatable by some detailers, but it looks and works great for some, but with good polish its not really needed)
6. Sealant.. I use Poor Boys Pure EX-P Sealant with the grey pad at speed 4 or 5 and remove it with another clean grey polish pad at speed 5 or 6. Allow sealant to cure for apprpx. 1 to 1.5 hrs before proceeding to step 7.
7. PoorBoys Nattys Blue Paste Wax (black car product) applied by hand and removed with another 3m micro fiber towel. Allow Nattys Blue Wax to cure for approx. 30 minutes before proceeding to step 8
8.Meguiars Hi-tech Yellow Hard Wax #26 applied by hand and removed with another 3M micro fiber towel. This Meguiars Hi-Tech Yellow#26 is a hard wax in my opinion and really makes a difference, but only if you follow the earlier steps.
9.I use another clean blue finesse pad at speed 5 to go over the car to make sure all wax residue is removed
I also use halogen lights to detect any scratched after my polish work. The pic below if a reflection off of the rear quarter panel
#26
Driver School Candidate
My wife's ride is a 2010 IS250 named "Bert". She lets me drive it to the carwash sometimes Not pictured is her previous ride - a 2002 Acura TL Type S (named Ernie) that I can't bring myself to sell just yet, as it is a blast to drive and still in great shape for its age.
Here's my summertime daily driver, a 2005 FXSTI Softail Standard. At around 42 miles per gallon, it helps offset the 14-15 MPG I'm getting around town in the GX!
Here's my summertime daily driver, a 2005 FXSTI Softail Standard. At around 42 miles per gallon, it helps offset the 14-15 MPG I'm getting around town in the GX!
#28
Driver School Candidate
It was rebuilt around 100k with an upgraded oil line to the #5 gear, which supposedly was the defect in the original design. So far so good. Still going strong with 180,000 on the odometer now.