ROSCOGX470

Every so often my rear cargo door handle is impossible to open. I can hear the lock mechanism lock/unlock but the handle won't compress to open the door. I had a mechanic get in it the other day by removing the inside panel. He states I need a new cable assembly. I have ordered one using our discount from Sewell. I have since come across a TSB about the actuator being an issue. I'm assuming my mechanic would know the difference. He said the cable is stretched and it makes the handle travel too far to engage. I'll try the cable at $35 delivered before the whole mechanism for $250 delivered.

Bob GX

My 2004 GX had that problem when it was a year or two old. Dealer did the TSB repair, it's been fine ever since. I hope you r new cable fixes the problem. Do you know if the TSB does both the cable & the assembly?

ROSCOGX470

I think it replaces both. My mechanic took the panel off and said the cable was stretched and not allowing the handle to activate the mechanism. I'll find out tomorrow when my Sewell cable assembly gets delivered.

ROSCOGX470

The part I ordered was the back door lock control assembly cable

ROSCOGX470

installed cable assembly and the handle and lock works like butter. The old cable had rust on it and seemed somewhat stretched.

Bob GX

I always feel good when my GX has a problem & it gets fixed - it hasn't had many problems in 10 years. It's had an annoying thing where the front turn signals act like the buib is out, and then self corrects. I finally tried a solution & if it works I'll do a write up in case anyone else has the same issue going on. All in all, these are not huge issues especially considering there's a lot of technology & systems in our GXs. Congrats on getting your door fixed!

ROSCOGX470

Thanks Bob, I've had the issue before that you described. The turn signal blinks fast indicating its bad and than a little while later it's blinking normally. What do you attribute to this "glitch"?

RCsGX

I have the same problem. It happens once every few months. All I do is pop the hood and jiggle the wires and it corrects itself immediately. If not it always corrects itself later in the day often times during the same drive.

If it wasn't such an order to remove a headlight I would take a look but it doesn't bother me that bad to tear into it.

Bob GX

My theory is the design of the socket. It's plastic with a small piece of metal in the side to complete the circuit with the base of the bulb. (Used to be sockets were made of metal and the entire socket around the bulb was good for making the connection). With such a small pice of metal & nothing forcing the base of the bulb that way, perhaps some corrosion or just a gap forms to defeat the circuit. That would explain why the flasher sees it as a burned out bulb, and why replacing the bulb or even just doing an R&R or jiggling the wires 'fixes" the problem - at least for a while. I got some fluid that claims to remove the corrosion & improve the contact and treated both the base of the bulb & the connector inside the base of the socket.

Time will tell - so far so good. It's been a couple weeks and the trouble hasn't come back. It'll take more time to see if it's fixed for good, or if it keeps the problem away for a long time. If it goes for awhile, I'll repeat the procedure & take some photos to post. It may be premature to claim victory!