Replacement of Trans oil on GX
07-18-14, 07:56 AM
#32
Pole Position
So I finally got around to doing this last night, not a real fun job. The fluid I drained was dark, no hint of red left in it, so I'm really glad I did it. I don't have a techstream, so I had to do the jumper-the-OBD2-connector method outlined in the PDF, but the "combo meter" described was not the guage cluster like it descibed, but rather a diagnostic screen came up on the nav screen that I wasn't able to make much sense of. Couldn't really tell if I had the temp in the right window for the final level check, but it drove real nice on the way to work this morning. It was hot enought that I burned my hand on the exhaust, which sucked. Also, fluid transfer pumps suck.
I think I'll do another shortly, in part because of the color of the fluid I drained, but also so I can be sure I have the level right before I tow a double ski-doo trailer again this winter.
Has anyone with Nav done this, and can you shed some light on the process of checking the temp?
I think I'll do another shortly, in part because of the color of the fluid I drained, but also so I can be sure I have the level right before I tow a double ski-doo trailer again this winter.
Has anyone with Nav done this, and can you shed some light on the process of checking the temp?
07-22-14, 08:51 AM
#33
So I finally got around to doing this last night, not a real fun job. The fluid I drained was dark, no hint of red left in it, so I'm really glad I did it. I don't have a techstream, so I had to do the jumper-the-OBD2-connector method outlined in the PDF, but the "combo meter" described was not the guage cluster like it descibed, but rather a diagnostic screen came up on the nav screen that I wasn't able to make much sense of. Couldn't really tell if I had the temp in the right window for the final level check, but it drove real nice on the way to work this morning. It was hot enought that I burned my hand on the exhaust, which sucked. Also, fluid transfer pumps suck.
I think I'll do another shortly, in part because of the color of the fluid I drained, but also so I can be sure I have the level right before I tow a double ski-doo trailer again this winter.
Has anyone with Nav done this, and can you shed some light on the process of checking the temp?
I think I'll do another shortly, in part because of the color of the fluid I drained, but also so I can be sure I have the level right before I tow a double ski-doo trailer again this winter.
Has anyone with Nav done this, and can you shed some light on the process of checking the temp?
The following 2 users liked this post by FlzRider:
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07-22-14, 10:51 AM
#34
Pole Position
My only other question then is do you check the fluid level with the tranny in P, N, or D? The PDF doesn't specify, and I can imagine this might make a difference.
I'll be doing another drain & fill this Thursday night as I'm not confident the fluid level is correct, and it was BLACK when I drained it.
Last edited by IanB2; 07-22-14 at 10:55 AM.
07-23-14, 08:36 AM
#35
Thank you sir! That video makes much more sense than the PDF from the service manual, the "D" on the dash did nothing special for me either.
My only other question then is do you check the fluid level with the tranny in P, N, or D? The PDF doesn't specify, and I can imagine this might make a difference.
I'll be doing another drain & fill this Thursday night as I'm not confident the fluid level is correct, and it was BLACK when I drained it.
My only other question then is do you check the fluid level with the tranny in P, N, or D? The PDF doesn't specify, and I can imagine this might make a difference.
I'll be doing another drain & fill this Thursday night as I'm not confident the fluid level is correct, and it was BLACK when I drained it.
Another reason I believe it is P: The manual gives no instructions to move the transmission out of or into any gear if using the hand-held tester.
But yea, you're right about the manual not being particularly clear on this.
Let us know how much fluid you end up removing and replacing when you finish the job.
07-23-14, 08:49 AM
#36
Confirmed it is P that the transmission should be in.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...nsmission.html
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd...nsmission.html
07-23-14, 02:15 PM
#37
Pole Position
Huge help, thanks!
07-25-14, 02:32 PM
#39
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Did this last weekend. I bought a new transmission filter and gasket. That was a pain in the *** to replace. There is an exhaust pipe that crosses right underneath the pan and it must be removed to get the pan off. NOT fun trying to get bolts broke loose that have been heated and cooled for 100k without breaking them. PBl blaster and some heat later it was a success. I drained the pan and once I removed it got another quart or so out of it. I was able to replace about 5 quarts. I just saved and measuered all that came out and replaced it that way. Seems to be fine. Shifts a little smoother. I also did the diffs and transfer case a few weeks ago. Not the car seems to coast a little longer, like there is less resistance through the drive train. Maybe its just the placebo effect though.
07-31-14, 08:51 PM
#40
Pole Position
Got another drain & fill done tonight, the fluid was actually reddish draining out this time, and I got into the temp check mode properly so I know the level is right this time around. Thanks for the help guys!
08-01-14, 07:01 AM
#41
Pole Position
Scheduled this to be done on my service visit next week. Can't stand the idea of 125k+ miles on the original fluid. A drain+fill should get about 1/3 of it exchanged, which will be good enough.
Chip H.
Chip H.
08-01-14, 07:48 AM
#42
Pole Position
08-13-14, 10:14 PM
#43
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Hey Guys! I absolutely love this website! Thank you all for all the info that you post and share! Ive been learning a lot! Just recently purchased a used GX470 2003 with 116k on it. Love the ride and everything about Lexus cars. First lexus to drive was my wives 2010 is250! Ever since I did her oil change and realized how much money I can save by DIY rather then getting it done by the dealer, I started doing more and more on our cars, like changing rotors and pads, filling the ac and minor stuff like that. However, with 116k on my gx470, I want to change the trans fluid, especially after reading how much smoother it shifts and just for profilactics! Im a little confused with some of the terms here, but pictures or a video on how to do it would be great!
Thank you for your time
Thank you for your time
08-15-14, 06:15 AM
#44
there are only two things you can do.
1) have a dealer do a complete flush, this is like a dialysis procedure for the trans.
2) drain pan, then drop pan, save every drop so you can measure (by volume). replace filter and pan gasket, put pan back on. then you pump in new oil into the oil check port in the pan, pump in same amount that you took out. this will get you about 5 new qts of oil in the system.
#1 will not get you a new filter, ............ you should get a new filter in there.
now, you have to be creative to pump in the oil, look around for the pumps that go onto the qt bottles, you need a fill hose that will fit snug into the check port, etc. you should plan to pump in 2-3 oz more than what you took out to account for minor spillage and not being able to get every drop out of the bottles, etc.
i have a thread somewhere with some pics, search for my posts, you should be able to find it.
1) have a dealer do a complete flush, this is like a dialysis procedure for the trans.
2) drain pan, then drop pan, save every drop so you can measure (by volume). replace filter and pan gasket, put pan back on. then you pump in new oil into the oil check port in the pan, pump in same amount that you took out. this will get you about 5 new qts of oil in the system.
#1 will not get you a new filter, ............ you should get a new filter in there.
now, you have to be creative to pump in the oil, look around for the pumps that go onto the qt bottles, you need a fill hose that will fit snug into the check port, etc. you should plan to pump in 2-3 oz more than what you took out to account for minor spillage and not being able to get every drop out of the bottles, etc.
i have a thread somewhere with some pics, search for my posts, you should be able to find it.
I just did the transmission fluid and filter change again (2nd time) last weekend. I did it initially at 50k miles and now again at ~100k miles. I got a little over 5 quarts in and out. Everything went smoothly except for the fact that when I put the car into "temp. check mode", the car immediately said the fluid was already warm enough as opposed to having to idle for a bit to get it up to temp. I don't really see a problem with this, although the manual mentions the fluid should be less than 86° F before beginning the temp. check mode. That is a bit tough to accomplish in South Florida in the middle of the summer.
08-15-14, 07:57 AM
#45
Pole Position
I have a pump like you mentioned but i'd advise against using it in this case. It's much easier to just run a hose from the transmission fill hole up through the engine bay and connected to a funnel. Of course, this makes it a 2 man job as you will need someone to pour the fluid and another one watch the fill hole and overflow hole.
I just did the transmission fluid and filter change again (2nd time) last weekend. I did it initially at 50k miles and now again at ~100k miles. I got a little over 5 quarts in and out. Everything went smoothly except for the fact that when I put the car into "temp. check mode", the car immediately said the fluid was already warm enough as opposed to having to idle for a bit to get it up to temp. I don't really see a problem with this, although the manual mentions the fluid should be less than 86° F before beginning the temp. check mode. That is a bit tough to accomplish in South Florida in the middle of the summer.
I just did the transmission fluid and filter change again (2nd time) last weekend. I did it initially at 50k miles and now again at ~100k miles. I got a little over 5 quarts in and out. Everything went smoothly except for the fact that when I put the car into "temp. check mode", the car immediately said the fluid was already warm enough as opposed to having to idle for a bit to get it up to temp. I don't really see a problem with this, although the manual mentions the fluid should be less than 86° F before beginning the temp. check mode. That is a bit tough to accomplish in South Florida in the middle of the summer.
I had the same issue with the fluid being overtemp when I tried to do the temp check and final level check. It was a real hot day (maybe not Florida hot though, lol), and I had to set a fan up blowing air under the truck for 3/4 hour to get it cooled off so I could finish the job.