bauer26

I see what you did there

burny

Don't be an instigator.

BradTank

Either way is not going to get 100% of the old fluid out, just like when you drain your motor oil, there's always going to be a bit left behind. While the fluid is being topped of with new during a flush, the old and new mix together at some level. But it really doesn't matter, it's not like the old power steering fluid is corrosive or harmful to the system. If it was that critical, it would be listed in the owner's manual as part of the service routine.

Swapping it out of the reservoir with a syringe or baster is not going to get all of it, that's why you do it multiple times with mileage in between, eventually you'll get most of the old fluid out. Sort of like a drain and fill with a transmission.

My problem with doing it the other way is "sh#t happens" and filling it while the engine is running, something like a hose can pop off or someone hooked it up wrong, a line gets pinched or didn't put enough fresh fluid in it, etc. and the pump starts running dry or gets air trapped in it, etc.

I also think when shops perform this service, it's sometimes put on a machine that uses pressure and usually the $8 an hour kid is doing it and can mess something up.

You can definitely get more of the old out fluid out in one step with a "flush", I just think it's risk that's not really needed vs the payoff, I don't believe anyone's power steering pump is going to last longer because they flushed it versus pulling the fluid out through the reservoir a few times and refilling with fresh fluid.

RCsGX

You do it w/ the ignition in the ON position not with the engine running.



As far as a drain and fill for our transmission I'd rather do a flush and be done with it. You'd save money doing it that way vs doing a lot of drain and fills over the years and have cleaner fluid to boot.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...ed-yet-dont-5/

BradTank

Most knowledgeable mechanics recommend against flush machines on automatic transmissions (unless they're selling the service) Even the Lexus manual states to do a drain and fill. I've heard transmission mechanics warning people to stay away.

So many people have had issues with their transmission when they've been flushed,I know it's something I would avoid. When it gets especially risky is if the fluid is older, all of that fresh fluid has a lot more detergents in it and can stir things up. Many shops use machines that put pressure in the system or use a cleaning agent.

People will get a flush, their transmission goes out, and the answer is "it was going to happen anyway, it just sped up the inevitable." That sort of answer doesn't make me comfortable.

Much of the "flushing" business has more to do with profit centers for service shops than anything. The idea that some old fluid being left behind is going to hurt the component is playing on people being overly ****.

I can't tell you how many times my friends ask if they should pay $200-$300 to the shop because the service writer pushes them for basically every customer every few thousand miles. They even push "motor flushes", which is a great way to blow an engine up.

My advice is follow the manual and what it says about fluid changes. If you want to go above and beyond that, I would find ways with less risk.

bauer26

I'm leaning toward the idea that RC wasn't referring to a flush in the way you read into. Just reading the post he linked is indicative of that. The method used in the post is attempting to cycle all the old oil out without going through the process of several drain and fills. Saving time, money, and oil while accomplishing a near full replacement of the old oil should be the ultimate goal.

burny

Yes that is the correct procedure. I did this on a GS350 and got 3 quarts out at a time and replenished 3. It is so neat how the old comes out then you clearly see the new bright red come behind the black to tell you it is complete. The top off is the tricky part, but certainly nothing to get nervous about. You need 2 people to do this procedure. I went through 13 quarts and it took about 75 minutes.

chiph9

What I've heard is that transmissions have an internal filter, and that the extra pressure from the flush machines tears it open, dumping all it's captured contaminates past it into the guts of the transmission. This quickly kills it.

Better to do a drain + fill -- no pressure, mon!

Chip H.

RCsGX

Yes, I don't mean flush with a machine, I mean flush removing the lines.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...procedure.html

Doing a drain and fill you will always have dirty / contaminated fluid so why waste extra money doing that? Spend the money once on new / fresh / clean fluid and do a flush through the lines and be done with it.

gxman1

Hello Rc,

Looks like many link to photobucket are gone, you posted a page from service manual regarding power steering check and fill, could you please post it again, I am ready to do it while I change my motor oil.

Thanks

RCsGX

Photobucket only allows so much bandwidth each month. I guess from people looking at my pics I've used up all of my free bandwidth for the month. All of my pics will be back up May 1.

Here's the pic attached through the site....

gxman1

Thanks,

This was exactly I was looking for! So, which line to allow drain? One of the line on the reservoir is positioned upper than other line. I am assuming the line which is a bit higher is return line, and that needs to drain.

burny

yes this is designed like that so air will not get in the system

gxman1

Screwed up a simple procedure

Here is what I did, I thought my reservoir was full, however it wasn't. Since there is a buildup, it appeared to be full, due to inside being dirty.

I drained it with 2 quarts, and saw the old fluid come out and stopped eventually when cherry color fluid start dripping from the tube.

When I started the engine I saw foaming, lots of it. Looks like I need to bleed it, I have no idea how to bleed it.... Please help.

Would this work? Ignition on position (not start), off ground, turn wheel around 20 times L to R, and add fluid to the line?

burny

First, turn ignition to on but dont start. turn steering wheel all way to left and hold 3 seconds, then do same for right. Repeat this 5 times and see if that helps. If not, then do below procedure.

Let everything cool down and do the procedure again. have about 3 quarts of fluid on hand. Have your wife or friend turn the wheel left and hold then right and hold while you pour it in, run enough through there so you go through at least 2 more quarts, then top it off to appropriate level. That should get the air out of there.