Secondary Air Pump
12-27-13, 06:07 AM
#16
So how does a mouse get up inside there with out cooking himself and what could he possible do.
I am really curious how the dealer was able to see damage Did the take the intake off ??
12-27-13, 07:05 AM
#17
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Thanks for the pics. He said he had the intake off. If you see the top of the pump on the left side that is the intake of the pump. There isn't any filter or screen. Just a hose barb. I'm just leaving to go to Napa. They have a pump. It's a Doorman #306-010. $110.00. I'll let you guys know how it works out. I think i'll put some kind of screen on the intake side.
12-28-13, 05:42 AM
#18
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i got it all back together last night. Drove about 20mi no problems so far. The Doorman pump is the same as the Lexus pump except for the wiring harness. All you have to do is pull off the rubber cover off the pump motors and swap the wires out. I was going to post pics and links but the site won't let me because it's been awhile since I've been on here.
12-28-13, 06:27 AM
#19
Lexus Champion
Nice job fantic. 
For anyone else wanting to do this, I found this from Brando @ TS. It has a link to a write-up on how to remove the intake manifold.
The Dorman pump is also sold on Amazon for $79.54:
I'm attaching the intake manifold removal link above as a PDF just in case it disappears over the years.
For anyone else wanting to do this, I found this from Brando @ TS. It has a link to a write-up on how to remove the intake manifold.
I am writing this mainly for a quick way to find the part number for the common GM Air pump that is identical (except for the wire connector) to the Toyota's that costs $1,200.00 I picked up a "OEM" (Original Equipment Remanufactured) brand # 32-3501M for about $114 from Autozone. It also crosses to a Dorman Part# 306-010 You can pick one up online for around $85.
I had done quite a bit of searching and these numbered didn't jump out at me like I had hoped, everyone kept talking about people using GM pumps, but no one offered any further info.
You can have your local parts place look one up as a 2000 GMC Sonoma 4cyl (not V6)
Below are the pumps side by side
*Again the difference is the wiring. It looks like all you have to do is swap wire harnesses between motors. Remove the black motor cover and disconnect the red and black wires that are connected to the motor, swap old wires onto new motor. no cutting required! Simple enough.
Here is my experience so far:
I recently had the vacuum cleaner sound from my 2005 4.7 Tundra, I read up on it to find its the Air pump under the intake manifold that is failing. I also had a CEL on, unfortunately I didn't read it before I d/c the battery to pull the intake.
I used this write up to help remove the intake, it's from a 2004 so its a bit different, but its close enough:
http://www.someguyinnevada.com/toyot...y-of-discovery (I'd like to buy that guy a beer)
There were 2 differences from my 05 I noticed,
*The return fuel line had a peach colored cover on the connection. You need to remove the peach part and then you can squeeze the connector and pull it right off.
*There is a bolt on the back drivers side of the intake manifold that is holding that huge plastic tray of wires, you will feel it with your fingers, remove that bolt!
Heres my air pump with broken fins.
Here's the air valve that hooks into the air pump
I opened the valve to find some of the disintegrating foam from the pump stuck under the plunger
I opened the valve and used a flat screwdriver to CAREFULLY hold the plunger open as I used a wood toothpick to clean the sticky foam out of the plungers way. The foam was holding the valve slightly open, I am hoping that's what was causing the CEL.
It is a 12v valve, so I also tested it to the battery with some alligator test leads to see if it would open and close, and it did.
I'm very unfamiliar with the 2 valve looking things that are next in line. I don't want to take them off, so I am going to put this all back together tonight and cross my fingers that they don't have any foam in them and cause any further problems.
Now, I know you can buy a bypass module for $275 with block off plates and not have to mess with any of this. I think had I realized it was that easy I may not have started this quest, but the block off plates sound difficult anyway. I had the intake off by the time I learned Toyota wanted $1200 for the pump. So that left me searching for a better solution, Thank God for the internet and forums.
I had done quite a bit of searching and these numbered didn't jump out at me like I had hoped, everyone kept talking about people using GM pumps, but no one offered any further info.
You can have your local parts place look one up as a 2000 GMC Sonoma 4cyl (not V6)
Below are the pumps side by side
*Again the difference is the wiring. It looks like all you have to do is swap wire harnesses between motors. Remove the black motor cover and disconnect the red and black wires that are connected to the motor, swap old wires onto new motor. no cutting required! Simple enough.
Here is my experience so far:
I recently had the vacuum cleaner sound from my 2005 4.7 Tundra, I read up on it to find its the Air pump under the intake manifold that is failing. I also had a CEL on, unfortunately I didn't read it before I d/c the battery to pull the intake.
I used this write up to help remove the intake, it's from a 2004 so its a bit different, but its close enough:
http://www.someguyinnevada.com/toyot...y-of-discovery (I'd like to buy that guy a beer)
There were 2 differences from my 05 I noticed,
*The return fuel line had a peach colored cover on the connection. You need to remove the peach part and then you can squeeze the connector and pull it right off.
*There is a bolt on the back drivers side of the intake manifold that is holding that huge plastic tray of wires, you will feel it with your fingers, remove that bolt!
Heres my air pump with broken fins.
Here's the air valve that hooks into the air pump
I opened the valve to find some of the disintegrating foam from the pump stuck under the plunger
I opened the valve and used a flat screwdriver to CAREFULLY hold the plunger open as I used a wood toothpick to clean the sticky foam out of the plungers way. The foam was holding the valve slightly open, I am hoping that's what was causing the CEL.
It is a 12v valve, so I also tested it to the battery with some alligator test leads to see if it would open and close, and it did.
I'm very unfamiliar with the 2 valve looking things that are next in line. I don't want to take them off, so I am going to put this all back together tonight and cross my fingers that they don't have any foam in them and cause any further problems.
Now, I know you can buy a bypass module for $275 with block off plates and not have to mess with any of this. I think had I realized it was that easy I may not have started this quest, but the block off plates sound difficult anyway. I had the intake off by the time I learned Toyota wanted $1200 for the pump. So that left me searching for a better solution, Thank God for the internet and forums.
I'm attaching the intake manifold removal link above as a PDF just in case it disappears over the years.
01-19-15, 02:33 PM
#20
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Thank you!
Wanted to give a huge thanks to everyone that is knowledge sharing. The Dorman 306-010 Electric Pump linked above worked on my 2005 Lexus GX470 perfect. Bought it from Amazon, just don't use the supplied wire connector. I just took the old wiring from the factory pump, put it in the new one and done. No more P0418 or P2445.
04-13-15, 10:28 AM
#24
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GX460 with code P02445 and air injection pump
My 2010 GX460 with almost 80k miles went into limp mode the other day with CEL, LO4, and other lights on. Sent it to dealer and was told code P02445 for secondary air injection pump failure, as well as air switching valves #1 and #2 need to be replaced. A total of about $2500.
Came here and did some reading. It seems like not all air injection pump failure will cause GX into a limp mode. Is it because my GX also need to get its #1 and #2 air switching valves replaced? I understand the DIY for the air injection pump replacement, but what about the #1 and #2 air switching valves replacement? I even don't know where they are. Is that something DIY?
For years, I've been complaining to the same dealer that the GX460 has loud engine noise and sometimes won't accelerate accordingly when I step on gas. Is this something related to this eventual failure of air injection pump?
I still have a 1999 GS300 which virtually gives me no problem. Is the newer Lexus been built "cheaper"?
Thank you to all my Lexus friends.
Came here and did some reading. It seems like not all air injection pump failure will cause GX into a limp mode. Is it because my GX also need to get its #1 and #2 air switching valves replaced? I understand the DIY for the air injection pump replacement, but what about the #1 and #2 air switching valves replacement? I even don't know where they are. Is that something DIY?
For years, I've been complaining to the same dealer that the GX460 has loud engine noise and sometimes won't accelerate accordingly when I step on gas. Is this something related to this eventual failure of air injection pump?
I still have a 1999 GS300 which virtually gives me no problem. Is the newer Lexus been built "cheaper"?
Thank you to all my Lexus friends.
04-13-15, 11:19 AM
#25
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I don't know much about the 460. But on the 470 the air pump only runs for a few seconds at start up and thats it. I believe it blows air into the cats to help them heat up quicker. It's for emissions only.
When you go to start the car it will go through a series of checks and when it gets to the air pump and it's not turning i believe it shows more amps than normal and that is what sets off the lights. My 470 codes also said something about the valves. I think since it is part of the system it just includes that as part of it. The valves are vacuum operated so i don't know how the computer would know. The valves are on the back of the motor and would be a pain to replace.
When you go to start the car it will go through a series of checks and when it gets to the air pump and it's not turning i believe it shows more amps than normal and that is what sets off the lights. My 470 codes also said something about the valves. I think since it is part of the system it just includes that as part of it. The valves are vacuum operated so i don't know how the computer would know. The valves are on the back of the motor and would be a pain to replace.
04-13-15, 07:56 PM
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My wife is able to drive that 2010 GX460 up to 60mph eventually, but only 45mph on incline. I also own a fleet of new emmission diesel trucks. Their engine will be de-graded to about 55mph if you miss the dpr (diesel particle re-generation). And if you still ignore the repair, then the engine will be de-graded further to about 35mph. The thing is most dealer will only hook up to their computer and do a forced dpr and/or re-program the sensor. But if they detect something wrong with the dpr filter (e.g. melt down due to over heat), they will need to call the headquarter and get authorization for replacement. No matter what brand of trucks that I try, they all need periodic repair and/or replacement of dpr filter, sensor, injector, and re-program. I really don't know how the diesel (e.g. bluetec with MB) dpr technology works with passenger car as the truck dealer here told me the diesel dpr technology has been proven working fine with European passenger cars for years. I still like natural breath pre-emmission engines.
05-12-15, 11:11 AM
#27
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After getting the air injection pump and #1 and #2 valves replaced ($2000+ parts provided by Lexus, and $500+ labor paid by myself), I finally got back my GX460 with no warning lights on my dash. But listen to this ...
For years, I've been complaining to Lexus dealers here about my GX460 will rollback at the exit of my community where there is a STOP sign. I have to either double footed (one on brake, the other on accelerator) or move my foot from brake to accelerator at lightening speed, the GX460 will rollback infinitely. Again and again, the dealers here said that it is normal and doing what it is designed to do. Meanwhile, I find the GX460 is sluggish compared to my 1,000+ lb more weighted LR3, especially highway passing.
Today, they found out that ECM to my GX460 was bad, and the truck has been running in SAFE mode? Please tell me that a top reliability rated Lexus with less than 80,000 miles can have a ECM gone bad?
For years, I've been complaining to Lexus dealers here about my GX460 will rollback at the exit of my community where there is a STOP sign. I have to either double footed (one on brake, the other on accelerator) or move my foot from brake to accelerator at lightening speed, the GX460 will rollback infinitely. Again and again, the dealers here said that it is normal and doing what it is designed to do. Meanwhile, I find the GX460 is sluggish compared to my 1,000+ lb more weighted LR3, especially highway passing.
Today, they found out that ECM to my GX460 was bad, and the truck has been running in SAFE mode? Please tell me that a top reliability rated Lexus with less than 80,000 miles can have a ECM gone bad?
05-13-15, 08:00 AM
#28
Pole Position
All I can say is that the reliability rating is across the entire brand, and not to the level of individual vehicles.
i.e. it can be a reliable brand, but someone can still be unlucky. Sorry.
Chip H.
i.e. it can be a reliable brand, but someone can still be unlucky. Sorry.
Chip H.
09-10-15, 08:58 AM
#29
I would love to learn a little more about how this system works. I have had a very faint high pitch noise that seems to correlate with the engine rpm. I can't figure out if it is a vacuum leak or a ringing sound, I don't think it's an electrical interference sound but I'm not sure really because it's not coming from the speakers.
I got a P2440 code this week, which is the valve stuck open. No noises, no other issues. I cleared the code and since then, I now have that loud vacuum cleaner sound when the pump comes on for the first 30secs or so when I start the suv. No codes, no limp mode, etc. I have ordered the bypass unit -direct plug and play, as well as, the block off plates. But, I'm wondering if there is any air that constantly moves through that system that could contribute to that faint high pitch sound, and if so, will the bypass "fix" it.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
I got a P2440 code this week, which is the valve stuck open. No noises, no other issues. I cleared the code and since then, I now have that loud vacuum cleaner sound when the pump comes on for the first 30secs or so when I start the suv. No codes, no limp mode, etc. I have ordered the bypass unit -direct plug and play, as well as, the block off plates. But, I'm wondering if there is any air that constantly moves through that system that could contribute to that faint high pitch sound, and if so, will the bypass "fix" it.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
09-15-15, 06:14 PM
#30
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The pump only runs about 30 sec after the motor is started. I looked at the by pass kit at the time. But I believe that you still have to remove the intake to un hook the wires to the pump to make it work. While you are in there might as well replace the pump. Since I started this thread I have put on about 30k miles. No problems.
