i use the copper anti-seize. i dont see any reason why a smidge of anti-seize would be bad. i coat mine 360degrees 3-4 threads deep from the bottom. i'd rather not have a plug seize, and the anti-seize makes it easier for plug removal.
its also odd that NGK says that using lubricant will cause torq overage, but in fact its just the opposite, not using a lubricant always means the torq on the item will be just under wrench setting, its the physics of t all. it would be wrong to overstate the torq setting to accommodate dry threads.
all 3/8" engagements:
1) for ease of service, you need a 5/8" long spark plug socket, these are ~5" long, have a hex & knurled end, have a spark plug socket end (with retaining rubber), and has a radial hole to engage the ball of extension.
2) two 2.5" extensions. i have many, but for plugs i use one that has a strong spring in the ball, this helps keep it attached to the socket, and then the 2nd one is a tad worn out so it helps me attach and remove as needed.
3) a ratchet that has tilting head.
4) the combo of #1-3 works very well for me, never once an issue of losing socket in the bore.
using std short or deep dish sockets is simply just trouble waiting to happen.
as for torq spec, just note that the oem spec is for oem plugs. once you switch plugs the crush washer on plug may be different therefore the torq needed may be different, it wont be wildly different, but i have seen where i switched and used oem torq spec, then went back w/o torq wrench and found the plug still needed to go a tad more. the NGK's i have (doing plugs today) have a tighten-to-position diagram on them. i have done many plugs before so i can feel when the crush washer is done, thus i dont use torq wrench for plugs. comparing my own feel for when plug is done about matches that of the diagram on plug box.
[QUOTE=bauer26;7484396]Hi all, I've been lurking around these forums for a little while now and have gotten a lot of use of the information that is available here! Thought it was time for myself to contribute a little bit
Great write up,thanks for sharing.I am goinf to do mine soon,hopefully this weekend if I get teh plugs in time.
Changed the spark plugs this afternoon.I spent a lot of time on the plug closest to the firewall on the drivers side. The passenger side was a piece of cake once the airbos was removed. I found it easier unclipping the coil packs. I also put a dab of dielectric grease inside the boot and sprayed thte coil pack connection with DeoxIT.
The plugs did not really look that bad outside a little bit of debris on the insulators.The gaps on the plugs were at .044 except one which was at .046. We bought this truck 6 years ago,CPO with 52,000 miles on it. I very much doubt the plugs were changed before we bought it. Today,the truck has 142,452 miles,all on the original plug I believe.If so,I am really impressed by that.
Thanks to the original poster and everyone else for their input within this thread!