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DIY Spark Plugs 04 GX 470

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Old 12-09-13, 10:30 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by BlairC View Post
anyone know what the plugs are supposed to be torqued to?
15ftlb.

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Old 01-17-14, 05:19 PM   #32
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Canadian Tire has NGK Iridium plugs - 2 for $16. Just picked up four packs for my 192000km service.
Looking forward to a warm day in front of the garage.
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Old 02-21-14, 06:41 PM   #33
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Just did this at 121k. My dealer gave me the torque specs:

17.5 N-m for the plugs
7.5 N-m for the coil-pack bolts.

Found one plug that wasn't as tight as the others - driver's side, 2nd from front, which I believe is #3. Had some brown on the ceramic, indicating it was running hot. Threads looked OK, so no damage to the head, thankfully.

The air cleaner element was new, so that's one maintenance item the previous owner did, anyway...

Chip H.
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Old 02-21-14, 08:22 PM   #34
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17.5 N-m for the plugs = 15ftlb.
7.5 N-m for the coil-pack bolts = 66inlb.
Converted to ftlb / inlb.
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Old 02-24-14, 09:01 AM   #35
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About to perform this DIY myself with at 2006 GX with 95,000 miles. Any of you guys put on anti-seize on the threads? If so, what did you go with...silver, copper?
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Old 02-24-14, 11:40 AM   #36
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NGK recommends their plugs be installed dry.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf

Don't know about Denso (the other OEM plug).

Chip H.
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Old 02-25-14, 06:29 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiph9 View Post
NGK recommends their plugs be installed dry.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf

Don't know about Denso (the other OEM plug).

Chip H.
I bought the Denso SK20R11. Now that I've searched, you're absolutely right, the new NGK's don't require anti-seize. I'll open it up and see what it looks like and make the call then. If I do put some on, it'll only be a tiny amount. Thanks for your response!
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Old 03-06-14, 11:44 AM   #38
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Hi all, I've been lurking around these forums for a little while now and have gotten a lot of use of the information that is available here! Thought it was time for myself to contribute a little bit

We bought my wife an 04 GX 470 a little less than a year ago. It had 116k on it when we got it and I was unsure what preventive or reactive maintenance had been done too it. We just recently passed 125k on it (a summer road trip was 4k miles in itself) and I finally got some time to look into the maintenance for myself. Recently, while changing the oil I noticed we had a torn up inner cv boot (with very little grease left in the boot) on the passenger side. Deciding to take that project on myself I also decided to go ahead and do the spark plugs and lower ball joints. Ordered 2 cv axles, 2 lower ball joints, and spark plugs from RockAuto. I couldn't have been happier with the customer service and prices RockAuto offered. Out the door total cost for the parts was 232$ after shipping. Enough background story! On to the DIY!!

This is my first DIY post on any forum so excuse me for anything I mess up on Any questions I can answer Ill be more than happy too!

The OEM spark plugs for the GX 470 are Denso SK20R11 (Iridium) plugs. This is what I bought from RockAuto for $6.57 a piece. There are 8 total in the engine.

Attachment 258350
First the tools used for this project were: 1/4 ratchet and its 3" extension, 3/8 ratchet and its 3" and 6" extension, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 5/8 spark plug socket, and screwdriver with socket adapter for 1/4 sockets and 3/8 sockets.

Before starting disconnect the battery. One, I don't like messing with electric wiring with the battery connected. Second, it gives the computer a chance to readjust for the new plugs.

Attachment 258357
Now to get started you need to remove the cosmetic engine cover it is held in place by two 10mm nuts.

Attachment 258356
With the cover off you can see the four spark plug coil packs that run along side the engine. (The picture is off the driver side). The coil packs are held in place with a 10mm hex head screw. Remove this screw and set aside (needless to say don't lose them!). You are now able to remove the coil pack. You can either pull the coil pack out while it is still attached to the spark plug wiring harness or you can unclip the harness from the coil pack. Don't let the coil pack dangle from its wiring should you leave it attached.

Attachment 258355
Next, with the 6" extension attached to the spark plug socket slide it down onto the spark plug and back the spark plug out. I found it easiest in the close quarters to place the socket and extension in first then attach the ratchet aftewards, then unattach the ratchet from its extension once you are ready to pull the old plug out. Then obviously it is the reverse of this process to install the new plug. I torqued the new spark plug by feel but its suppose to be 21 ft lbs I believe. Complete this process for the remaining three plugs on the driver side.

Continued....
Hi,

You mentioned in this post that you bought CV axles. Do you have a write-up for that job? How hard was it to do? My dealer said my from cv boots were leaking and wanted $800 to replace the boots. Honestly, the leak seemed like it was hardly leaking at all. If it is not that hard of a job, I would rather do it myself.

Thanks!
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Old 03-10-14, 08:28 AM   #39
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Forgot to update this thread. Denso's are the same as NGK when it comes to the use of anti-seize.

From Denso: Steve Fett *Supervisor - Aftermarket Service*
"Denso does not recommend the use of anti-seize on our spark plugs."
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Old 03-10-14, 01:29 PM   #40
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Hi,

You mentioned in this post that you bought CV axles. Do you have a write-up for that job? How hard was it to do? My dealer said my from cv boots were leaking and wanted $800 to replace the boots. Honestly, the leak seemed like it was hardly leaking at all. If it is not that hard of a job, I would rather do it myself.

Thanks!
Honestly, I orginally looked at just doing new boots instead of the whole axle. Since I wanted to do the work myself, to save cash and know it was done right, I concluded that just doing the boots was going to be a helluva lot more work than just doing the whole axle. I got some axles off RockAuto for something like 40 bucks a piece.

I do not have a detailed write-up for the CV axles. I can give you what I used and some very basic instructions that I have given to another member in the past. Pretty sure he was able to complete the task as well.

The actual removal of the axle from the tranny and seating the new axle in the tranny, I feel are 2 person steps. I'm sure it can be done solo, but I gave up and got someone to help.

Here is what I have:
I used pieces and portions of this when replacing my axles. Has the needed torque specs for the axle nut and steering knuckle as well as the caliper.

Hope it helps somewhat.

Once you get the axle nut off, the caliper out of the way, and the steering knuckle unbolted, replace the old axle nut onto the axle and hit it a few times with a mini sledge to break it free from the hub. Replacing the old nut first keeps the axle from mushrooming by way of the sledge hits. Once you get it clear from the hub you need to get it out of the tranny. Have one person pulling on the axle while another uses a flat head screwdriver between the metal lip of the axle and the tranny case. This leverage is needed to pop the retaining clip out of its grove in the tranny. Just make sure the flat part of the screw driver is pushing against the axle and not into the tranny. When installing the new axle and seating it in the tranny, we ended up having to use a copper pipe and dead blow hammer along the lip (same one mentioned above) of the new axle to convince the snap ring to go in and seat.

Thats the basics of the job. Its pretty simple. One of the pages in my link says to drain differential fluid. There is absolutely no need to do that. Some fluid may drip out of the tranny when you pull the old axle but it shouldnt be very much at all.
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Old 03-10-14, 02:00 PM   #41
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The actual removal of the axle from the tranny and seating the new axle in the tranny, I feel are 2 person steps.
You mean front diff not transmission.
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Old 03-10-14, 06:07 PM   #42
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You mean front diff not transmission.
Yep, my bad.
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Old 04-18-14, 06:22 PM   #43
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Thanks for a good DIY procedures. I just replaced my plugs today with NGK (3764) BKR6EIX-11 Iridium IX Spark Plug. They are great quality than the original Denso Denso (3297) SK20R11 Iridium Spark Plug its replaced. The idle at stop light is extremely quiet and no vibration at all. sometimes I though the engine not even running, that's what the lexus should be. In the freeway at some slope, the gears was not change at all, that prove to me the performance is better. I have good experiences with NGK on my BMW and Audi. They improve everything I like. I will stay with these plugs for another 70K miles. It's worth it, it the great replacement I ever done for this car.
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Old 07-13-14, 10:58 AM   #44
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Awesome DIY! I just replaced my plugs on my 2008 GX470 with 120K miles. Straight forward procedure that even my novice skills were able to accomplish in just under 2 hours.

A couple notes for 2008 owners. It is easiest to remove the drivers side cover and remove a little 10mm bolt on hose clip. Otherwise, it is very hard to access the back 2 plugs.

Also, the drivers side front plug and passenger side front 2 plugs require the ignition coil be disconnected from the wire harness, not enough slack in the wire to pull the ignition coil out otherwise. I found it easiest to press the clip in and use a screw driver to *carefully* pry off the connector. Mine were on pretty tight and required some elbow grease to remove.

Thanks again for such an awesome DIY tutorial. I should be good for another 120K!
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Old 07-20-14, 01:59 PM   #45
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Hey RCs,

I have done tuneup before in Hondas, but thanks to you my friend I was able to do my first GX470 tuneup yesterday.
I gathered all the tools you mentioned, and I even went I bought a torque wrench. I never torque down spark plug before, so this was a first for me. I replace all the spark plug with ease except for the one on the driver side closest to the windshield, that one was very awkward to get at since the brake oil tank is there and this other part that have some iron connection going to it (not sure what that it) but It made things difficult.

One other tool that is definitely needed is a "Long needle nose plyers". Thank God my neighbor had one to lend me because after I torque down the spark plug, when I try to pull out, the 6 inch extension keep coming loose without the spark plug socket, so I thought to myself what I'm goint to do and I had 7 plug left .Neighbor came to rescue.

Something on the funny side: I had to take the oil dipstick out for the passenger plug near the windshield and I lay it on the side. Minutes later I heard my wife telling my baby daughter to put that back! I look over and I saw her just swinging it like it was a fly swatter. I was like bring this over here now !!!

Thanks again RCs!!!

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Old 07-20-14, 01:59 PM
 
 
 
 
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