Need new O2 sensor
07-24-12, 12:11 PM
#4
07-24-12, 11:53 PM
#7
It need not be all sensors, need to know which one exactly got bonked. You can check by yourself, but "DONT" apply voltage to the sensors, but measuring it is ok. Try getting a good volt meter and check the resistance and you will know for sure the amount it returns. I had mine replaced around 2 years back, Picked it up from http://www.sparkplugs.com
Here is the test method, which you can do it at home ( Courtesy Rick)
Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.
Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph.
Here is the Part Number and Cost from the Denso Website. Anywa you check from Sewell what is the offer for CL and then decide to purchase. hope this helps
Here is the test method, which you can do it at home ( Courtesy Rick)
Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.
Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph.
Here is the Part Number and Cost from the Denso Website. Anywa you check from Sewell what is the offer for CL and then decide to purchase. hope this helps
Last edited by mann777; 02-27-13 at 09:41 PM.
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07-25-12, 01:54 AM
#8
Here is another bit in Sensor Information for GX. Once you know the fault codes. Here is how you could target the fault sensors. This is the proper identification of engine bank 1
and engine bank 2 for correct A/F sensor and oxygen sensor replacement for 2UZ-FE Engines
S Bank 1 (B1) refers to the bank that includes cylinder No. 1.
S Bank 2 (B2) refers to the bank opposite bank 1.
S Sensor 1 (S1) refers to the sensor that is located before the catalytic converters.
S Sensor 2 (S2) refers to the sensor that is located after the catalytic converters.
and engine bank 2 for correct A/F sensor and oxygen sensor replacement for 2UZ-FE Engines
S Bank 1 (B1) refers to the bank that includes cylinder No. 1.
S Bank 2 (B2) refers to the bank opposite bank 1.
S Sensor 1 (S1) refers to the sensor that is located before the catalytic converters.
S Sensor 2 (S2) refers to the sensor that is located after the catalytic converters.
Last edited by mann777; 02-27-13 at 09:41 PM.
07-26-12, 01:14 PM
#9
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I just recently had P0031 fail on me.
My 2 cents to throw in after all the info given above me is search on Advance Auto Parts for a good price. Sometimes you can grab a good price on one when you make a purchase and get a $50 gift card.
To get the cheapest price out there with no other little "extras", amazon will be the cheapest option.
Cheers
My 2 cents to throw in after all the info given above me is search on Advance Auto Parts for a good price. Sometimes you can grab a good price on one when you make a purchase and get a $50 gift card.
To get the cheapest price out there with no other little "extras", amazon will be the cheapest option.
Cheers
07-27-12, 07:53 AM
#10
It need not be all sensors, need to know which one exactly got bonked. You can check by yourself, but "DONT" apply voltage to the sensors, but measuring it is ok. Try getting a good volt meter and check the resistance and you will know for sure the amount it returns. I had mine replaced around 2 years back, Picked it up from http://www.sparkplugs.com
Here is the test method, which you can do it at home ( Courtesy Rick)
Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.
Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph.
Here is the Part Number and Cost from the Denso Website. Anywa you check from Sewell what is the offer for CL and then decide to purchase. hope this helps
Here is the test method, which you can do it at home ( Courtesy Rick)
Testing O2 sensors on the workbench.
Use a high impedence DC voltmeter as above. Clamp the sensor in a vice, or use a plier or vice-grip to hold it. Clamp your negative voltmeter lead to the case, and the positive to the output wire. Use a propane torch set to high and the inner blue flame tip to heat the fluted or perforated area of the sensor. You should see a DC voltage of at least 0.6 within 20 seconds. If not, most likely cause is open circuit internally or lead fouling. If OK so far, remove from flame. You should see a drop to under 0.1 volt within 4 seconds. If not likely silicone fouled. If still OK, heat for two full minutes and watch for drops in voltage. Sometimes, the internal connections will open up under heat. This is the same a loose wire and is a failure. If the sensor is OK at this point, and will switch from high to low quickly as you move the flame, the sensor is good. Bear in mind that good or bad is relative, with port fuel injection needing faster information than carbureted systems. ANY O2 sensor that will generate 0.9 volts or more when heated, show 0.1 volts or less within one second of flame removal, AND pass the two minute heat test is good regardless of age. When replacing a sensor, don't miss the opportunity to use the test above on the replacement. This will calibrate your evaluation skills and save you money in the future. There is almost always *no* benefit in replacing an oxygen sensor that will pass the test in the first line of this paragraph.
Here is the Part Number and Cost from the Denso Website. Anywa you check from Sewell what is the offer for CL and then decide to purchase. hope this helps
P0051 Generic H02S bank (2) Sen (1) heater circuit low.
Now looking at the photo Mann777 posted which part number is for the o2 that i need. I know its Bank 2 (B2) refers to the bank opposite bank 1.
S Sensor 1 (S1) refers to the sensor that is located before the catalytic converters.
but what is the part number? Is it upstream or downstream hahaha sorry hahah..
07-27-12, 11:15 AM
#13
Lead Lap
exhaust flows like a river... pre-cat (S1) is upstream of post-cat (S2). Error code points to the specific one too as you're discovering.
Sidebar... I'm curious why B1/B2 have different part #s for S2 sensor. That is rather unusual but think it only applies to Denso b/c IIRC Bosch is same replacement p/n O2 for S2. Who knows...
Anyhow, again upstream is what you need. Unlike headlights/bulbs, don't bother replacing other side at same time as O2s rarely if ever go out at same time unless a major fouling issue i.e serious blow by, etc. Keep that in the back of your head b/c if you ever get an error code pointing to more than one O2 at a time, issue likely isn't O2s but rather "upstream" from them.
Incidentally, if you search on your error code P0051 in this forum, you'll find a nice thread w/ good pix and a tip about tool needed to remove an O2 sensor (look for my post w/in about AdvancedAuto O2 tool loaner program
).
Good luck
Sidebar... I'm curious why B1/B2 have different part #s for S2 sensor. That is rather unusual but think it only applies to Denso b/c IIRC Bosch is same replacement p/n O2 for S2. Who knows...
Anyhow, again upstream is what you need. Unlike headlights/bulbs, don't bother replacing other side at same time as O2s rarely if ever go out at same time unless a major fouling issue i.e serious blow by, etc. Keep that in the back of your head b/c if you ever get an error code pointing to more than one O2 at a time, issue likely isn't O2s but rather "upstream" from them.
Incidentally, if you search on your error code P0051 in this forum, you'll find a nice thread w/ good pix and a tip about tool needed to remove an O2 sensor (look for my post w/in about AdvancedAuto O2 tool loaner program
).Good luck
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