Great work and nice write-up. Appreciate if you can post the picture of the old belt and the fraying section.
after careful inspection old vs new, its not fraying, but rather just where the stitching seems to end. not even sure why they are like this, but new belt has the same.
and i noted in another post, i thought the belt markings on new belt were off, but they are not, i had to turn belt around so that the arrow marks on belt face forward. i saw other installs on u tube where the arrows were facing rearward, but then they guy noted he just transferred marks from old to new and put belt on, his timing is good but belt is on backwards. i verified my old belt marks to new belt marks and they match up (verified 3 times just to be sure).
and btw, the autozone site gives some ok pics and torque settings for stuff.
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here's oem and new belt fiber strands. they have a direction, so be sure your new belt matches the direction of the old belt (and i mean direction of the fiber ends, etc). the markings on my new belt matched the direction of these strands. if the open ends of new belt dont match the old belt when you put new belt on using new belt markings (in my case arrows forward) then you need to investigate further. it makes a big diff how the open ends of these strands enter a gear tooth as the belt goes around.
and then here's the crank seal. so, you will need a very sharp awl to get the old seal out. i drove point up into middle of seal section at about 60 degrees from crank centerline, but i also tilted the awl so point was more towards the crank and not the AL housing. the steel of crank is much harder and less likely to gal if you went to aggressive with awl, etc. i used small hammer to easily hit awl so point would pierce into seal. you know how deep the seal is, juts look at the new one, so dont bang awl in too deep. then you pry it out, use small piece of wood as a wedge to pry against, etc. for new seal, i put light coat of full synth motor oil on inside and outside of seal, it will basically push in with fingers, i then use a blunt piece of wood to lightly tap the seal into seating area, make some easy taps all around the seal to make sure the whole seal is in place.
and some extra notes.
i can see where some things can go wrong when a dealer tries to jam all this work into 8hrs or work. sure, it can be done, but i have already found dealer work to be lacking in quality. take your time and do it right. as example, taking that extra 30-45min to make sure the water pump seal surfaces are clean and free from burrs is well wort the extra time. if you use any type of rag to wipe the surfaces (i use old cotton T shirts, usually with lacquer thinner on just the metal parts) be sure to used compressed air (lightly) to blow off any rag fibers. make sure gasket is clean, blow off to make sure, do not use cleaners on this part.
also, you need a torq wrench, several of them. the specs range from in-lb to almost 200ft-lb. the harbor freight ones are accurate enough for this work. i use half-drop of blue locktight on all threaded fasteners, this helps achieve torq setting target and help to prevent backout, etc. you dont want to over-do anything. proper torq is a must, and using too much locktight is bad.
just some additional info. while doing this service i highly recommend replacing the fan bracket support. the bearing on mine had some minor bearing grease "oozing" out on the backside, and, there is a small wobble on the shaft. i'll post pics later.
and then some would say a tad obsessive, but while i could i used my porting/polishing tools, small cone stone and polishing point to knock down the sharp edges, might not seem like much but it helps fluid flow.
be sure to clean out the groove and faces good, i used very small screwdriver to scrap out what i could from the groove, then used a small brass wire wheel on dremel, followed by lacquer thinner cleaning with lint free rag.
as for applying the rtv, well, i pierced small hole in center of tube then held tip of tube flat against the face centered over groove, then squeeze out rtv to fill groove while moving around to fill the whole groove. then add a light coat using same method to the water pump face keeping the track about centered where the neck groove will meet. not too much goop, you dont want a huge amount squishing out on the inside, etc. this all works better if you have a cone dispenser to screw onto the rtv tube, then you can simply fill the groove with a bead that sticks up like the pic shown, etc. you have to remember that the two faces are machined fairly flat, thus any goop on the faces will squish out, etc. you only need 13ft-lb on this housing (neck to water pump).
got it up and running today, no issues at this 1st 15min of idle run. did my AC refill too using Yellow Jacket #49987 and a harbor freight 3cfm 2-stage vac, i am getting 40F out the vent according to my IR temp gun. 26oz of 134a, one 12oz Dupont w/ dye, and another 14oz. i need to recheck coolant. i am also installing a HID conversion kit.
What's the difference between a premium timing belt service and a regular one ?
i suspect the "premium" means they install more new parts, whereas non-premium might be minimal items? i believe Toyota maintenance for 90k is the same for everyone, no choice unless dealer goes beyond that?