charlie@jd

what happens if you put it on the lift and didn't turn off the height adjustment?

mann777

Your height Sensors will re-adjust with the current abnormal height and MIL warning would appear on the cluster and to erase it you need to have the DTC tool or go to the Dealer or Autozone.

plunger

The typo got me also. I went to the Toyota dealership to order my gaskets. I'm 1 gasket short due to typo. Parts guy liked me because I had the parts number all written down where as he is used to seeing people with limited English trying to explain parts.

I didn't read all of the comments before I printed it off and went on my way. Can the OP please put a note about the typo in the 1st post?



Lexus dealership wanted $20 for that rear diff plug on #3. Online it's $10 Also, it would have been a special order for the dealership and I would have had to return for it.

mann777

Thanks Plunger....I have been longing to do the correction, just slipped out my mind....Apologies for the Data typo error.

clubsport

wow, so toyota suggests we use mobil or royal purple - don't they have their own blend?

plunger

I did the rear differential a 2007 GX 470 yesterday. It was pretty easy. The dealer noted a leak at the rear drain plug. They were going to drain fluid and put in a new washer. It's under warranty but I'm doing everything myself, the stuff I can handle that is.

I used a 15/16" socket, didn't have a 24mm. My 1/2" breaker bar was too long to break the fill bolt so I used an electric impact gun to hammer it loose but it didn't break free. I went back to the breaker bar and go it free with no problems, the impact gun hammered it a bit so it helped. Also, don't remove the fill bolt completely or else fluid will run down. Break the seal but don't remove.

I removed the drain bolt and discovered there were two washers on it Don't know if this is what caused the leak or did they put on two washers because it was leaking. It must have been a DIYer. This GX was a CPO.

I also bought a 1 gallon jug of gear oil. Turns out my screw on cap pump did not fit this large bottle. Only the smaller bottles. I used an orange fluid transfer pump I had bought just in case if I ever needed it. These fluid transfer pumps are messy. Avoid it at all cost and use the screw cap type. I'm going to buy a small quart bottles next time or one big bottle and pour it into the smaller bottle for pumping. I've done this rear diff change on a different car before and there were zero mess with the correct bottle pumper.

There were a few metal flakes on my drain bolt. Also when wiping away, it was metal in color. There was a lot of this grey paste. I've done 1 other rear diff change and a lot of ATF changes for other cars and this was the worst of the magnetic bolts. There must have been a lot of metal on metal grinding. It only has 62k miles too.

After I put on the new washer, there was no signs of leaking. But I will keep an eye on it. I don't think I will use that rear diff housing to jack up the rear ever. The jack point is the circle around the drain bolt.

Also, for the front under engine cover you need to remove to access the oil filter, transmission or front differential, use a floor jack, bottle jack or something to hold it up while you remove and reinstall. I used a cheap small floor jack. It will save you a lot of grief.

hammer0008

Just did the the rear and transfer case. No problem. The rear was really dirty at 55k. Transfer case was clean.

However the front diff is giving me problems. I can not get the drain plug off.

1. hammered with a plastic hammer
2. pb blaster
3. 1/2 breaker bar and 3 feet copper pipe

that hex nut won't budge!!!

Vinniety

iTrader: (1)

You couldn't get it off using #3 on your list. DAM!!! I really don't think there is any other way unless you try to use a air ratchet which i really wouldn't just in case something gives way and snaps, like the case itself. Keep spraying the pb blaster for a few nights and continue to try. It eventually will give. It has to, HAHA good luck!!

ALAN553

I could not get the bolt loose on the front diff either. Allen did not seat deep enough to get enough torque on the bolt, kept slipping off, tried everything. I wound up stipping the bolt. Had to take it to lexus and they drilled it out and replaced the oil for me...only charged me 25 bucks so i was okay with that. I think the way to get that bolt out is to take front tire off and approach it head on with an electric impact wrench.

plunger

Breaker bar wouldn't do? Try using your foot to press on the breaker bar next time. Have a person hold the breaker bar + socket in place if it wont stay on its own and you press with your foot to break it free. Your legs are much stronger than your arms.

I hope you weren't using a copper pipe. They are really weak. You were probably using a grey steel pipe.

mann777

I suggest you use a Hex Impact Sockets, with Impact Bar wrenches as they would be better. As the area is limited to work, it would be the best shot or if could borrow power tools on a loaner basis from pepboys. That would be the best bet ! Dont make it worse by slipping it more, then the grips become limited.

plunger

Another way is to suck out all of the fluid from the fill bolt if you're in a jam. You can buy the fluid transfer pump from Walmart or any auto parts store for $10-20.

That's if you didn't have any problems taking the top fill bolt off.

mann777

Plunger removing the fluids will not help as the problem lies on the thread of the drain bolts, due to ingress of water,moist humid & salt laden atmosphere, these tends to cause mild corrosion. I would suggest using impacts or borrowed tools.
Synopsis:- When two different metals or grades of the same metal are in contact, especially when moisture is involved there is a potential for electrochemical corrosion, this is what has happened.

plunger

What I was implying was that if he needed to get the fluid out in a jam, pump it out without removing the stuck drain bolt.

hammer0008

It would be easy if it was empty of gears, but with gears inside, there is no easy straight path to the bottom of the oil pan where I imagine most of the dirty oil is.

If the impact hexes don't work, I may settle for that though as M1 would be good for 100k miles.