burny

Is step 9 correct? I'm pretty sure the transfer case uses gear oil 75-90

is503

So for all of you who are wondering if the shortcut method (removing the the actuator w/out removing the transfer case) works? I'm excited to report that my dealer gave me 2 options. One is ofcourse the $2k method of removing everything, 2nd was the shortcut way for $680. I immediately took the opportunity and told them that my 4hi/4lo works perfect, as long as it works after the procedure, I'll proceed with the shortcut method. Sure enough, I got my gx back the next day, I test it out in 4lo, 4hi and everything works great. Comes w/ 1-year warranty. I'm happy.

fjc32

Does Lexus or Toyota dealer sell the small oil seal o-ring? what is the part number?

I just bought the 90301-56009,

Thanks

fjc32

Talked to Longo Lexus. The parts guy (after checking with the mechanics) told me the small oil seal o ring is included in the kit, 04362-60120. They want $55 for the kit but since I needed it by tomorrow, it was not too bad.

My friend is going to pick up both 04362-60120 and 90301-56009 and take my new "used 470" to repair shop.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I just picked up my new to me '03 gx470, the previous owner drove the leaking transfer case until it eventually started popping and clicking and sort of broke internally, so she decided to sell it to me =). if you give it just a hair of throttle it drives fine but any more and you can tell its broken cause it starts clicking.

Picked up a used transfer case from a 2005 and dropped it in with the help of my brother took about 4 hours from start to finish. drives like its brand new again, and the 2005 doesn't appear to have the leak that the 03 one had.

It seems like for most people fixing the leak in time is all you need to do via the shortcut method and your case can be saved from actual damage, as I did not find alot of info regarding people who had to replace a broken one.

One thing I would like to add for others who have to replace the whole transfer case if its broken is that you should remove the center console trim and get to the part around the transfer case shifter. Unlike the 4runner which has full electronic, the GX has the shifter for high and low and this needs to come out before you can pull out the transfer case as the GX has a forward shirft type transfer case where the shifter goes into the transmission side, not the actual transfer case.

so to remove the shifter what you do is remove the console trims, remove the large rubber boot around the TC shifter (4 bolts you can also use a phillips screw driver for the lower 2), then there is a small boot over the base of the shifter, and you lift that up a few inches and there is a C clip holding the shifter in. remove the C clip by hand cause its large enough to do so and the shifter pull straight up and out.

After the shifter is out you can remove the T-Case like normal. unbolt both driveshafts which are 8 nuts and washers total, then there are 8 bolts holding on the case 5 facing the transmission, 3 facing the transfer case (drivers side). you need swivels and extensions for the top ones, and some patience.

not a difficult job but if you forget to remove the shifter you will be in the wierd situation of the transfer case coming out like a half inch (engaging low on the shifter) and then it will just be stuck hanging above your head probably while you wonder why its not coming out fully which is probably not a good idea. Pull this shifter for ease and for safety. good luck and thanks for all the great info in this thread the pictures are helpful to figure out whats going on.

chauds2000

Hello guys. I've been a fan of German vehicles in general but always am caught up doing some repair work on my BMW. Bought GX470 for family just because of general perception that Toyota requires minimum maintenance. So here I am, have 67k miles on my 2008 GX470 and noticed oil leaking from the transfer case recently. I changed transmission seals on my BMW at 100k miles and thought they should have lasted longer.

Read about this issue and replacing the O-ring and rack oil seal. Many did DIY on this others got it done from dealer n indy using short method. I do plan to take it to dealer to see if it could be covered under 70k warranty but my guess it its passed 6 yr limit. Most threads on this topic mention this problem in 03/04 models and service bulletin mentions it being fixed for later year. But mine is 2008 n seeing same problem. Does anyone have any thoughts about it. Does 2008 year model also have shown this problem for others? Please update.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

its not necessarily a year specific problem it seems the older ones just have them more often.
Its unfortunate that it happens but its not that bad to do the shortcut method or even to drop the transfer case and replace it the original way its not that hard of a process, everyone just likes to complain about it but it really only takes 30 minutes after dropping the case to do, the hardest part is removing the case.
The shortcut method though you can do on the car in like 20 minutes without dropping the case, and if it doesn't work, you can still drop the case and fix it, so yeah I would say go for it. I only removed my whole case because the transfer case was broken, otherwise I would have definitely attempted the shortcut method.

you were not wrong on the toyota requiring minimal maintanence. mine has a ridiculous amount of miles on it, and after fixing that one little leak, drives like its brand new still. the trans and transfer case are really quite strong on these vehicles, this is really one of the only major problems you have to deal with on all the toyota's with electronic buttons or dials to shift to 4hi, 4lo (4runner), or center diff lock (4unner and gx470).

If you ever wonder why our cars have one rod and seal in that plastic actuator, when 4runners have 2 rods and 2 seals, its because we have a shifter for 4hi and 4lo, so we don't need the plastic motor to shift that fork for us. 4runners have no shifter just a dial, so they have an electronic way to shift the 4hi and 4lo fork also.

if you look at a FJ cruiser manual case, it has a shifter for 4hi, 4lo and center diff lock is included on the shifter. this type of case is a completely manual shifted case and does not have the black box on the back known to leak.
If I knew for certain that it would have fitted in the G470 (it probably doesn't easily), I would have thrown one of those boxes in as they are the most reliable cause they have no actuator to leak out of. only problem is I think the FJ is a top shift case (shifter comes out of top of TC), and the G470 is a front shift transfer case (shifter comes out of transmission forward of the transfer case). This means the shifter would be in the wrong place in the console, and worse than that, the input shaft on the 2 cases have a different number of splines. I was thinking of taking the front half of my old TC and the back half of a FJ manual one and make a hybrid that would fit and work, but shifter would still be in wrong place possibly, but would be a pretty solid setup for offroad use. you also dont want a FJ auto TC cause they are not full time 4wd anyways, thats my comparison of the 3 types of transfer cases. we couldn't use a 4runner case either cause we don't have the buttons for 4hi and 4lo and its not worth replicating.

4runner and gx470 Transfer cases are going to leak sooner or later, do not ignore it cause if you let the diff run dry it will break internally eventually (the previous owner drive for 150k on a leaky transfer case before it broke, just kept topping it off until it got low one time and failed). just change the seal and refill with good fluid and it should be good for a long time. I have been meaning to take mine apart and see what exactly failed, and maybe start a gx470 / fj cruiser manual box hybrid build.

chauds2000

Ok.. took it in to dealer the other day. He quoted $300 for re sealing the transfer case. To my surprise was told water pump leaking as well. Seriously! at 64k miles. That was another $1050 job. On return, taking a look around the TC leak area it does seem like its leaking from the front of transfer case where the drive shaft connects to the TC. Oil seem to be splashing and sticking to under body in that area. could it be some other seal? Any thoughts?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that called the ouput seal. those can leak also just less common. there are on the front and rear flanges. you need a 30mm socket to remove the drive flanges to change the seal, and to do it properly you need a new stake nut, but you can also reuse the old one, but the manual says to use a new one.
look in here for pics on how to take the front flange off, our transfer cases are very similar except we have different shift rails.
you will unstake the 30mm nut, remove the 30mm nut (can be tricky), tap the flange with a rubber mallet (dont need a fancy puller slides off with a whack), then you can replace the seal.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...ak-within.html

on another note, this thread above also shows how to replace the actuator motor the right way.

I just popped open a gx470 transfer case, there are definately 2 snap rings on the actuator, so whoever is doing the shortcut method, has 2 snap rings floating around the case somewhere.
on a 4runner there would be even more snap rings are there are 2 rods (center diff lock and hi.low), vs the GX that only has 1 electronic shift rod for center diff lock.
after seeing that I would probably not do the shortcut method everytime if you have the ability to drop the case that would probably be best for the longrun.

chauds2000

Thanks for info. Getting ready for this job. Found the seals at ebay since Colonial had charge for small order plus too much shipping for two seals. I think its the same specs on ebay. One question. To remove the flange and change the seal does it require TC fluid drain. I'm sure my actuator o-ring is not leaking at the moment so will like to replace front seal only at this point. Your thoughts?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the front output flange sits pretty low on the diff, so likely some fluid is going to come pouring out as soon as you remove the seal. how fast and how much fluid not really sure, I would probably drain it and refill it.

470reasons

Haven't visited this thread in quite awhile.

When doing the o-ring replacement the 'easy' way, the rack shaft is NOT removed from the case. The solenoid housing comes off the rack teeth. So, no clips come off the shaft as the shaft stays in the case. Did mine the 'easy' way about a year ago and no problems! Shifts in/out of lock just fine. Believe me, I did not get much sleep the night before I did the repair. Was worried something would go terribly wrong. Worked out fine, but this 'easy' repair method is still a gamble in my opinion. If someone asked me to do it on their GX for them, I would decline. Just no way to tell for sure if the solenoid is going to sync back up correctly when reinstalling the unit on the teeth. Do this at your own risk

EDIT: If you do the 'easy' repair I would suggest the following:
To test the repair, go to an empty parking lot on a rainy day. Do some tight turns. Take a deep breath, lock the diff and do some tight turns. If the diff is locking, the difference will be apparent when doing tight turns locked/unlocked. A wet surface will allow the tires to slip. Sand or gravel would also be good test surfaces. If the diff does not lock, take the GX to the dealer and pay the money. If the diff does not sync up properly and starts doing something weird (not sure what that would be) the diff can be returned to unlocked manually. To manually unlock the diff, remove the solenoid housing like you did when replacing the o-ring. Push the rack rod all the way into the transfer case. Reinstall the solenoid housing so it is holding the rod all the way in. Now the GX can be driven to the dealer. I figured this out when doing the research for the repair. Knowing the GX could be brought back to 'normal' if I screwed up, did give me some confidence. (Bring the proper tools with to the parking lot.)

chiph9

This is the important part!

Probably could also do this on a loose dirt road, so the tires can slip more easily.

Chip H.

470reasons

LOL! Yes. If you want to really screw up thw drive train, do the test on dry concrete with oversize tires. SNAP!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that is a good point didn't realize the actuator came out without the shaft. when I opened it up and saw the c clips I was surprised how many were backing these out by hand, but if the rod stays in then that makes perfect sense, as long as you don't move things around a bunch pulling it out and putting it back in shouldn't be a big deal.
I have an extra actuator sitting here if someone needs one PM me and we can work something out, keeping it as a spare otherwise but I doubt Ill need it after changing my whole transfer case.