warriorplu

Hi I just bought an gx470 from the auction. How do I bypass the factory amp? I have an aftermarket radio and amp for install. Or maybe just bypass the factory amp and use the aftermarket radio to power the factory speakers? I have factory navigation but no rear DVD that I can see. It says DVD on the nav screen but I didn't see a screen in the back unless it's hidden. Any help is greatly appreciated

warriorplu

Year is 2004

chiph9

While replacing the radio and amp on a navigation-equipped GX is technically possible, it would be a huge expense and you'd also lose access to the climate controls (other than the "Auto" button, they're run via the touch-screen)

If you have the Mark Levinson option, I think you'll find it's one of the best factory systems ever made, with smooth response, good vocals, and good soundstage.

The "DVD" you see on the nav screen is where the nav data is stored. There's a DVD reader under the front passenger seat where the disc is read. For a 2004, you can update the data (but not the UI) to 2013 road data, which is as new as it'll ever be.

Chip H.

warriorplu

well I came across another Lexus at the auction yesterday so I want to sell the Gx and use the new one as my daily driver. Already have someone who wants to buy it now. The amps are too expensive for the person who wants to buy the truck now. Am I able to retain the factory radio and still use the aftermarket radio? Maybe relocate the factory to another spot and bypass the amp completely?

chiph9

Either go all the way and live with only "Auto" climate function, or do nothing.

BTW, the Mark Levinson speakers are 8 ohms. Your replacement amp would need to be ok with driving that load (most car audio speakers are 4 ohm).

Chip H.

erkelbot

It's a bottomless pit of time and energy. Live with the ML and focus on stuff that matters. I like my audio too, but since what's there is decent there are other ways of having fun with these trucks.

TDYalden

I know this is a rather old thread but given that the GX470's are still out there, en masse, and going strong, I can't imagine I'm the only person who has wanted to tackle this little project, which I did recently (last weekend).

That being said, Beat Sonic manufactures a module (MVA-81 - $280 on Amazon) that you simple plugin to your factory wiring harnesses. It allows you to install a *single-DIN* aftermarket headunit while still retaining full climate controls and NAV. All-in-all, I only spent about $700 for both module and headunit. Now the speakers, that was a different story. I did a full-sweep (all speakers) and added a sub. The grand total for that was a little over $2,500. I went with:

Front Doors: JBL Stadium Tweeters and JBL Stadium 2" Mid's

Center Channel: JBL Stadium 2" Mid (single - pictured)

Rear Door JBL Stadium 6.5" two-way mid/tweet combos

"Barn Door" JBL Stadium 2" Mid's

Sub - Fosgate P3D2-12 dual-voice coil 12" powered by a Fosgate Prime mono amp into a 3.5Ω load

I used the passive crossovers that came with the JBL's and even though I'm still running through the factory amp, the improvement in sound quality is absolutely phenomenal! If something happens and the ML amp decides to die on me (after all, it's now driving somewhere around a 2Ω load versus the expected 8Ω), I'll simply map out the speakers and replace the ML amp with a small 4-channel after-market amp and a "brick" amp for the center channel (run mono).

I upgraded the headunit to an Alpine CDE-HD149BT. The climate controls work perfectly.

This is the center channel.

The sub is a Fosgate P3D2-12 Punch 12" dual-voice coil powered by a simple Fosgate Prime amp into a 4Ω load. (Technically it's more like 3.5Ω.) Since the amp works on convection, I mounted it to some aluminum rails, to aid in heat dissipation, that I painted to match the interior.

captainva

iTrader: (1)

Fixed that for you

TDYalden

I hope it does die. It'd be the excuse I needed to upgrade it with something better. But I have no desire to rattle windows with my setup so I'm sure it's more 'if' than 'when.'

angelslex

Nice work! Was looking to the beat sonic but I'm afraid with the front 6x9 and rear door.6.5 not being 8 ohms.
I can only get 4ohms. Does your the Amp clips when you turn it up to a certain volume or amount of time?
Have you seen the other video where the guy puts the tape deck in the glove box? If I'm gonna bypass the amp then I don't have to use the beat sonic $350 with steering control.

montanagx

I was just look at the BeatSonic with that exact head unit, Alpine CDE-HD149BT .... how do you like the unit? Which steering wheel adapter did you use? I've read elsewhere that not all of them work well with the Alpines?

TDYalden

I like the headunit a great deal! It was exactly what I was looking for. The only place I could find one "new" was eBay. If you can find one, I think you'll be quite pleased. Aesthetically, one of the things I liked most was the white, dot matrix display versus the colored seven-segment displays most everyone, even Alpine, is using now. I find the white blends better with the subdued lighting of the interior and is a much sleeker, cleaner look that doesn't visually assault like those atrocious seven-segment displays. However, the key/deciding factor is, and always should be, "How does it sound?" It sounds fantastic! The only real issue was trying to squeeze the headunit into the dash along with the BeatSonic module. I wound up sliding the BeatSonic module behind the passenger-side dash. (You'll see a metal bar that runs the extent of the passenger side dash - I zip-tied it to that, being mindful of the airbag. Don't want that thing deploying with a BeatSonic module in your face.) Even then, it was still a very tight squeeze for the headunit.

As for the steering wheel control, I went with the Metra ASWC-1 (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and had to simply solder two wires into the vehicle-side 20-pin connector (just sheer back the insulation on the two wires about 1" - 2" - don't cut the wires!).
The color codes are:
SWC-1 (Pin 7) Brown to Green\Orange
SWC-2 (Pin 8) Brown/White to Black/Green
However, do not solder GND (SWG/ground) to Pin 6 (even Metra will tell you this). It needs to go to a good paint-free, metal point on the chassis. Otherwise, you'll have some wonky and unreliable results with the SWC. And make sure to solder those two wires. Don't use wire taps as it won't provide good enough contact.
And this particular SWC works very, very well.

When it was all said and done, I used some tesa tape (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPBB6L8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to wrap everything up nice and tight. (Note: It's much easier to wrap everything before you put it back in the dash, then just finish out the install by wrapping the remaining connectors.) Tesa tape is what's used at the factory for wrapping wires/harnesses. And you get 5 rolls with that Amazon link (above) so you'll have waaaaaaaaaaay more than you could possibly need.

If you've never pulled your dash apart, here's the BestSonic How-To: https://images.carid.com/beat-sonic/...sers-guide.pdf
Another great How-To (with pics): https://www.carstereoremoval.com/htm...X47003_07P.htm
And here's the BeatSonic install manual (on my personal Dropbox): https://www.dropbox.com/s/t9fpcfk2zi...VA-81.pdf?dl=0 complete with a diagram of the SWC install. (For some reason, it won't let me upload the manual to this thread.)

I hope that helps. And make sure to take plenty of 'after' pictures.

montanagx

Wow thank you TDYalden for the detailed response, this is a huge help and push to go ahead and get this done! Funny you should mention the display, that's one of the many reasons it appeals to me, the newer head units look like a night at the disco
I have exactly NO soldering experience, is this a must, or is there an adapter that can be used? I guess two wires doesn't sound like a big deal, but if I can avoid it ........

TDYalden

You're very welcome.

I know it's a bit intimidating, having no soldering experience, but it's really very, very straightforward. There are a number of videos on how to do it effectively and efficiently. Here's a great video for beginners:
The thing is, I do the exact reverse of what this YouTuber shows (not that he's wrong but there's a reason why I don't do it the "right" way). In his video, he's getting the wire hot first, then applies the solder to the solder point/joint. This helps the solder to bond better to the wire; however, on thicker wire, or in tight spaces, you'll find that as you're heating up the wire, you can easily begin to exceed the rated temperature of the wire's insulation, either on your joint or on adjacent wires, and thus melt the insulation before you're able to effectively solder your joint. I've seen more than one instance where someone melted the insulation, trying to solder, and we had to replace a decent stretch of wire just for that one solder point.

Therefore, what I do is apply a small amount of rosin flux ( ) to the surface I'm soldering. (It's just a thick paste and can be applied via toothpick or any small, flat applicator.) Then, I'll apply solder to the tip of my hot (15-30W) soldering iron (anything larger/hotter will definitely invite melted insulation) and then apply that melted solder to the wire with the flux on it - it bonds and penetrates the wire almost instantly. You just want enough solder to decently cover the tip of your iron - it'll form a small droplet, that's perfect - and then the rosin flux will draw it straight on to the wire when applied. My method works perfectly and I've never had to worry about melted insulation. Just keep your solder point/joint as isolated from other wires as possible and try to limit the application of your tip to the joint to no more than about 2-3 seconds max to reduce the applied heat.

And if you find that you have a little excess flux (it'll be a brown, sticky substance on the wire) you can easily wipe it off with some rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Just make sure you don't spill the rubbing alcohol on your vehicle's painted interior trim. The alcohol will take the paint off very quickly.

One thing to remember, always, always disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before undertaking any endeavor that involves your electrical system.

It won't hurt to find some scrap wire and practice on a few pieces to get the hang of soldering. Once you see what's involved, and get your feet wet, you'll see how simple it really is. Speaking of being wet, make sure to periodically clean the tip of your soldering iron by gently rubbing it on a wet sponge. This will make the process go much more smoothly.

Let us know how it turns out!

TDYalden

Thank you! 😃

To answer your questions, I rarely crank it up above 15 (volume goes to 35 on the new unit) so I don't rattle anyone else's windows. I'm driving about a 2Ω load and the amp gets a tad warm but nothing of any magnitude since most of the heft of required power is relegated to the sub via the Fosgate amp. I've driven about an hour straight, before, with the new setup and had it cranked louder than I should have but the amp never experienced a thermal event or clipped - not once.

Yes, I have seen the video of the glovebox headunit. Honestly, as impressive a feat as that was, it was a whole lot of unnecessary work (but probably necessary, at that time, as the MVA-81 most likely wasn't available). I've had my vehicle for about the last five years and never once used the tape deck. I can't imagine many, if any, actually would. Honestly, if you get the BeatSonic, you can put the tape deck in mothballs and forget about it. Just remember, that tape deck is integral and critical to the functionality of vehicle navigation and climate control. You wouldn't think it, but it is. Without that beat sonic module, you lose everything in that respect. And while I know the $280 for the BeatSonic is a bit much, in hindsight, it's absolutely worth every penny.

I hope that helps! 😊