Instructions: Complete 100% trans flush with filter change
10-28-16, 03:10 PM
#16
Great writeup, just did mine at 120k. It worked like a charm, shifts much more smoothly now. Dealership was supposed to have done it at one of the service intervals the PO took it to them for according to Carfax, judging by how black it was they didn't do more than a simple drain and refill, if that even.
Paid version of Torque wouldn't output tranny temp from either of the two settings. The formula here works - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...anny-temp.html BUT I think it's coming from the wrong sensor. According to this post - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...ml#post1366316 one sensor is right before the radiator, one is in the transmission itself, this one registers cooler than the other. The first post uses the warmer formula.
I let the hotter fluid reading heat up to 58*C in reverse, then cool to 54* in park, the lower reading was 49*C at this point and didn't drop as quickly as the warmer reading so I was able to get both within the desired range and pulled my overflow to get the level right.
Paid version of Torque wouldn't output tranny temp from either of the two settings. The formula here works - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...anny-temp.html BUT I think it's coming from the wrong sensor. According to this post - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...ml#post1366316 one sensor is right before the radiator, one is in the transmission itself, this one registers cooler than the other. The first post uses the warmer formula.
I let the hotter fluid reading heat up to 58*C in reverse, then cool to 54* in park, the lower reading was 49*C at this point and didn't drop as quickly as the warmer reading so I was able to get both within the desired range and pulled my overflow to get the level right.
11-03-16, 08:12 AM
#17
Driver School Candidate
This is the routine I used at 90k miles. Really simple process and I never burned myself or anything lol. Maybe 30 minutes total time spent.
Drained exactly 4 quarts out of the drain plug on a cold engine.
Pumped 4 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump. (really impressed with how much fluid you can get out of a quart container with that thing!)
Disconnected the top hose on the cooler and used a piece of 3/8 tubing to run into a paint measuring bucket.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3 quarts. (Only the last quart had any red tint to it at all.)
Pumped 3 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3 quarts. (Looked 50/50 red/brown in the clear tubing and bucket)
Pumped 3 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3.5 quarts. (Looked 70/30 red/brown in the clear tubing and bucket)
Pumped 4 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Reinstalled the fill plug.
I did the temp check mode method to check the level. Jumped the OBDII port and pulled the overflow on the trans pan. Almost exactly the 1/2 quart extra I put in on the last round came back out at this point.
Cole
Drained exactly 4 quarts out of the drain plug on a cold engine.
Pumped 4 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump. (really impressed with how much fluid you can get out of a quart container with that thing!)
Disconnected the top hose on the cooler and used a piece of 3/8 tubing to run into a paint measuring bucket.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3 quarts. (Only the last quart had any red tint to it at all.)
Pumped 3 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3 quarts. (Looked 50/50 red/brown in the clear tubing and bucket)
Pumped 3 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Cranked engine - pumped out 3.5 quarts. (Looked 70/30 red/brown in the clear tubing and bucket)
Pumped 4 quarts into the fill port with a $5 harbor freight pump.
Reinstalled the fill plug.
I did the temp check mode method to check the level. Jumped the OBDII port and pulled the overflow on the trans pan. Almost exactly the 1/2 quart extra I put in on the last round came back out at this point.
Cole
Will share this with my Garage shop…
Whats the fluid are you using and where to buy it from ?
Thanks for your help
11-03-16, 11:09 AM
#18
Pole Position
You pretty much want to use the Toyota WS (World Standard) fluid. But there are aftermarket choices available.
Chip H.
Chip H.
11-23-16, 05:34 PM
#19
Performed this job last week using these instructions... thanks!
Broke two pan bolts in the process, drilled one out and used a nut and bolt in its place. The other one snapped while tightening, haven't done anything with that one yet as it is not leaking so I might just leave it. The fluid level check process seems intimidating but is actually quite simple.
My truck has 120K and the fluid was completely black and very gritty. Magnets were covered with metal sludge but that is normal. No big pieces of metal that I could see.
Transmission shifts much smoother than before although I still experience rough downshifts when cold. Anyone else experience this? Maybe I just never noticed it before but it was definitely more pronounced with the old fluid.
The fluid probably needs to be changed at 100K and after that I think you are taking a chance based on what I saw as far as conditoner of the fluid.
Broke two pan bolts in the process, drilled one out and used a nut and bolt in its place. The other one snapped while tightening, haven't done anything with that one yet as it is not leaking so I might just leave it. The fluid level check process seems intimidating but is actually quite simple.
My truck has 120K and the fluid was completely black and very gritty. Magnets were covered with metal sludge but that is normal. No big pieces of metal that I could see.
Transmission shifts much smoother than before although I still experience rough downshifts when cold. Anyone else experience this? Maybe I just never noticed it before but it was definitely more pronounced with the old fluid.
The fluid probably needs to be changed at 100K and after that I think you are taking a chance based on what I saw as far as conditoner of the fluid.
11-24-16, 12:37 PM
#20
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Ya it's a bad design by Aisen to have the tops of the bolt holes open to the environment like that, makes it very easy for them to get cruddy and seize. I recommend everyone soak the tops of those bolt holes in a good penetrating oil such as Kroil or the homemade ATF-mineral spirits mix.
I broke one on mine as well, I solved it by using a 3/4" self-tapping screw and just drilling it right through the old bolt (the bolts are very soft so it drills easily). I put some blue loc-tite on the screw also.
The condition of my fluid mirrors the results that new2005GX experienced. One other thing that I observed though, as I mentioned in my initial post, is that I turned the old filter upside down to drain residual fluid from the top (where the screen catches contaminants) and metal filings poured out of the old filter, lots of them. That's why I think a 100k mile filter change is a good idea.
I broke one on mine as well, I solved it by using a 3/4" self-tapping screw and just drilling it right through the old bolt (the bolts are very soft so it drills easily). I put some blue loc-tite on the screw also.
The condition of my fluid mirrors the results that new2005GX experienced. One other thing that I observed though, as I mentioned in my initial post, is that I turned the old filter upside down to drain residual fluid from the top (where the screen catches contaminants) and metal filings poured out of the old filter, lots of them. That's why I think a 100k mile filter change is a good idea.
Last edited by LoneHiker; 11-24-16 at 12:42 PM.
11-25-16, 03:35 AM
#21
Job is not done unless filter is changed. Otherwise, you are wasting your time changing the fluid since the filter is an integral part of the system responsible for keeping your Trans clean.
For the bolts, yes, spraying some PB or other may help but your best bet is a small torch to put some heat on the bolts as you attempt to loosen each one. I should have done this but was in a rush as always so I could drive the car that afternoon. Man I miss having a third vehicle for these situations but couldn't justify the insurance expense or the money required to keep yet another car running.
Front shocks are next! Need to change out Arnott/Bikstein for OEM FJ shocks (looks like 4runner fronts are xreas only?). Truck riding much better with new rear bags even though the old ones looked to be in fine shape.
For the bolts, yes, spraying some PB or other may help but your best bet is a small torch to put some heat on the bolts as you attempt to loosen each one. I should have done this but was in a rush as always so I could drive the car that afternoon. Man I miss having a third vehicle for these situations but couldn't justify the insurance expense or the money required to keep yet another car running.
Front shocks are next! Need to change out Arnott/Bikstein for OEM FJ shocks (looks like 4runner fronts are xreas only?). Truck riding much better with new rear bags even though the old ones looked to be in fine shape.
11-25-16, 03:38 PM
#22
Unless Toyota/Aisin have changed their recommendations the filter has for decades been consistently regarded as a lifetime part. It's still just a screen, yes? It's going to keep oil clean regardless of how new it is - the metal filings it catches aren't going to lost mass and fall through, and unless it's extremely dirty flow rate isn't going to be diminished. By that point the filter would probably be the least of your worries. I've opened a couple pans before and both screens were almost entirely clean, felt like a waste of time. I didn't bother this time, maybe at 200k+ but wouldn't hype the importance of a filter change. Significantly more time and potential for things to go wrong for little if any benefit.
11-25-16, 04:49 PM
#23
You have a point but considering there is no way you can possible get all of the crap out of the pan without dropping it, you may as well change the filter while you have the pan off. I'd have to imagine that the filter functions better when clean trapping more particles that are in suspension instead of cycling them through the transition but I could be wrong. For the cost of the filter, it just seems like a no brainer. Regardless, this was one of the best things I have ever done to this truck to improve the performance of it in terms of bang for Buck. So much smoother shifting and seemingly smoother in general operation, especially on the highway.
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freddiekd (07-28-17)
11-25-16, 07:01 PM
#24
I didn't drop the pan at all on this truck, time didn't allow for it. From the first post's reference of initial draining via the overflow plug I'm not sure if older trucks lacked the drain plug altogether or not. Agree that if you're dropping the pan it would only make sense to replace or at least clean the screen. Either way it's worth changing the fluid, I also noticed driveability improvements.
11-26-16, 10:55 AM
#25
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I didn't drop the pan at all on this truck, time didn't allow for it. From the first post's reference of initial draining via the overflow plug I'm not sure if older trucks lacked the drain plug altogether or not. Agree that if you're dropping the pan it would only make sense to replace or at least clean the screen. Either way it's worth changing the fluid, I also noticed driveability improvements.
11-26-16, 01:33 PM
#26
Exactly! I couldn't figure out initially why your instructions had you removing the overflow plug vs the drain plug but then I realized that there was no need to mess with the drain plug if you were dropping the pan anyway.
I also think it would be a good idea to do another drain and fill in a few thousand miles if you have never changed the fluid and are past 100K. Rationale being that even though the described method is more thorough than the "gradually mix in new fluid" method, you still can't completely remove all of the contaminants in the valve body. Doing a subsequent drain and fill should ensure the trans is good to go for another 100K. Not sure if I will bother, still deciding if I will keep the truck or not. I've nearly replaced every wear item possible at this point though so it probably makes sense to keep it.
I also think it would be a good idea to do another drain and fill in a few thousand miles if you have never changed the fluid and are past 100K. Rationale being that even though the described method is more thorough than the "gradually mix in new fluid" method, you still can't completely remove all of the contaminants in the valve body. Doing a subsequent drain and fill should ensure the trans is good to go for another 100K. Not sure if I will bother, still deciding if I will keep the truck or not. I've nearly replaced every wear item possible at this point though so it probably makes sense to keep it.
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