acer1001

I have not been here in a while. Sold my IS250 and picked up a 2004 GX470 for the family. Installed a new double DIN head unit a few months ago and finally got around yesterday to installing the backup camera. Since I had the rear hatch open I decided to replace the rear hatch lock actuator motor as well. Hooked everything up and turned on prior to closing the interior panels and eveything worked fine (reverse lights, locks, backup camera, started up fine). So I closed up all the panels and go to start the car and I get nothing but random flashing from the dash once I get ignition to ON. I also get a steady clicking from the fuse area. Checked the fuses and I also tried to hookup to Techstream to see if any errors, but of course I get nothing (it can't connect to the vehicle). I disconnected the negative for 20 mins or so and tried starting again with the same outcome. So I disconnected the camera wires from the reverse light (thinking maybe the GND wire was shorting somewhere to chassis?) and disconnected the negative battery cable for a while and tried once again... same flashing instrument cluster lights and no luck . Anyone have any ideas? Gotta get the wifes vehicle back up and running.

LoneHiker

The clicking could be a self-resetting breaker in the fuse panel. Which would indicate a short to ground somewhere. Try pulling breakers until it stops, and find out what that breaker is used for.

You mentioned a ground shorting to chassis, but in this case you would be looking for a hot wire shorting to chassis.

I'd put money on something shorting out behind the head unit. It's likely you pulled a connection loose or something when hooking up the camera. Hopefully it didn't fry a module in the process.

acer1001

Thanks. I pulled radio 1 and 2 fuses in the engine bay which cut the clicking up there. I'm still getting clicking from new the drivers footwell. Tried pulling fuses there and got nothing. I know the stereo has a fuse... should I try pulling that? The only hot wires that could have shorted are the reverse sense wire to the radio (which identifies when to switch the reverse camera on) or the reverse light positive wire. I disconnected the reverse sense wire from the reverse light, so it shouldn't have any power going to it now. Also eliminated the possible short from the reverse light wire. Any ideas which other fuses/relays I should be looking for? Do I need to try to get to the fuse built into the stereo?

BlackCat81

Did you try jump starting it? Because it sounds like the battery is dead. Lol

acer1001

Yeah tried a jump without luck and battery shows 12V. Disconnected the stereo as well, no luck. It feels like a GND failure of some sort that wont even let acc or IGN or anything work. I prefer sticking to the mechanical side, but I've done plenty of stereo installs without a hitch. I could live with a non-functioning stereo, but I gotta get this at least able to start. If i shorted the reverse light power wire, what should I look for upstream that could have been damaged, or which fuse would I need to pull?

BlackCat81

If your reverse light wiring is shorted, see if you have 12v at the bulb. If you do, you're fine. If not, worry about that then.

acer1001

My problems seem much greater than that at this point. Does anyone know if I can replace the ECM (plug and play)? What is the ECM link to the immobilizer, is it a matter of reprogramming or is it a new immobilizer and locks along with ECM?

chiph9

Can you restate the problem, as it now exists?
I lost track there...

Chip H.

tz693

+1

All circuit ground wires are tied to chassis. The V8 needs a little more juice to start. Try to push the gas pedal in the jumping car when jump start.

acer1001

Check out the video I uploaded to see how it is acting. Instrument cluster acts like it is on the fritz (randomly flashing lots of lights in ACC and ON positions (forget about even trying to crank). Battery shows 12V with voltmeter and jump start did not have any impact on the way car is acting. Techstream gives an error of ECU not supported or not responding for ALL the vehicle ECUs when I plug in to the OBD. I am still completely pretty puzzled how all this happened right after simply connecting a backup camera to the reverse light wires and replacing the rear hatch lock actuator motor. Worst case in my mind is the reverse light positive wire shorted to chassis (not sure where, very simple wiring to camera and head unit) or the new lock actuator motor drew too much current? Would either of those scenarios cause this kind of failure? I'm an hour and a half from the Lexus dealer and I'm not sure if the Toyota dealership will touch it since they didn't really want to make a spare key for it. I will be calling some shops/Lexus/Toyota dealer tomorrow to see what the consensus is. My options seem to be tow it somewhere, or try to source a used or new ECM if that's the issue and see what the process is for ECM replacement if it can be at least partially DIY (programming ECM to immobilizer and set VIN if those steps are needed).

tz693

It looks like some of the circuit was resetting. Check all the fuses in and out for sure. One thing you can check the battery is to watch the voltage during ignition.
Good luck.

chiph9

This sure sounds like a half-dead battery. Agree on watching voltage when cranking - it should be able to maintain at least 10 volts over 20 seconds crank-time.

Chip H.

IanB2

Another vote for dead battery.

acer1001

Thanks everyone for the advice! Guess I should have listened more closely instead of chasing ghosts. After two days of pulling fuses and relays and redoing wiring, i borrowed a charger and a few hours later, it cranked up. I didn't know low voltage would cause the instrument cluster to act nuts and throw a ton of check engine codes. That'll teach me not to overanalyze the problem next time!

tz693

Good to figure out