revisiting the infamous "clunk", permanent solution?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Location: ca
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
revisiting the infamous "clunk", permanent solution?
My 2004 at 84,000 miles is finally doing the "clunk". It now occurs frequently at stop lights where there is a clunking sensation almost resembling someone lightly rear ending the vehicle.
I have seen many threads about this, however, they are all rather old and do not provide solutions to the problem.
So I was wondering if there is an update or permanent solution to this.
I did take it to the dealership where the service advisor mentioned an "updated driveshaft" that they could put in for $8-900. He didn't exactly confirm the fact this definitely would resolve the problem so I was not all that confidant.
thanks for any input.
I have seen many threads about this, however, they are all rather old and do not provide solutions to the problem.
So I was wondering if there is an update or permanent solution to this.
I did take it to the dealership where the service advisor mentioned an "updated driveshaft" that they could put in for $8-900. He didn't exactly confirm the fact this definitely would resolve the problem so I was not all that confidant.
thanks for any input.
#2
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
its been covered in many of the threads here including this sticky at the top
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...h-new-tsb.html
there is an updated drive shaft that fixes the problem part number: 37110-60A40
its just under $300 from toyota and you can install it yourself its about 8 bolts, or you can go to the dealer and spend the 8-900 for the same job.
I would try toyota if you have to get it done by someone as they may give you a more fair labor on it.
still I would do it myself its not a difficult job and the car is plenty tall enough to not need a lift even.
this thread has helpfull pics towards the bottom.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...riveshaft.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...h-new-tsb.html
there is an updated drive shaft that fixes the problem part number: 37110-60A40
its just under $300 from toyota and you can install it yourself its about 8 bolts, or you can go to the dealer and spend the 8-900 for the same job.
I would try toyota if you have to get it done by someone as they may give you a more fair labor on it.
still I would do it myself its not a difficult job and the car is plenty tall enough to not need a lift even.
this thread has helpfull pics towards the bottom.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...riveshaft.html
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-06-15 at 10:04 AM.
#4
There is no permanent solution per say. The shaft requires routing greasing. I had the newer version of the shaft installed several years ago and it was great a for a while, but my clunking has returned. Presumably a greasing of the drive shaft will fix it for the time being.
#6
I believe it to be more of a function of lack of maintenance on my part i.e. greasing the shaft.
The new shaft improved things dramatically - I was getting a hard clunk every time I slowed down. This was a number of years ago (8 I think) and in that time I think I've only greased the shaft once and it really needs it more than that.
The new shaft improved things dramatically - I was getting a hard clunk every time I slowed down. This was a number of years ago (8 I think) and in that time I think I've only greased the shaft once and it really needs it more than that.
#7
Pole Position
For those that have DIY'd this -- is there clearance to get a 14mm socket on a torque wrench in there? Maybe with a short extension?
Chip H.
Chip H.
Trending Topics
#8
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
edited and added a picture
the 17mm is just the size of the bolt head on the back of the flange that you need to hold with a box wrench to remove the 14mm nuts from the other side.
In fact, on mine the 17mm bolts were stuck in place from factory, so there was no need to hold it even except to keep the flange from turning on you.
The only part you need to remove and then put back and torque is the 14mm side which is just the nut.
hold the bolt head with a box wrench (or not if yours is already welded in place, still holding it provides extra support), and then remove the 14mm nut.
A "long" breaker bar is recommended to break the nuts loose the first turn, they are on tight if they have not been removed recently they can put up a fight.
Pb blaster the night before is never a bad idea on all 8 nuts, but the breaker bar does the trick every time on these.
I just did this when dropping the transfer case. differential side should be the same thing more or less.
dont overthink it, grab 14mm socket + breaker bar (removal) + torque wrench (installation), and a 17mm box wrench (hold bolts for support) and you should be good.
Make sure to lock the wheels in place when removing the driveshaft and pull up the parking brake.
Just leaving it in park will not treat you well when you pull the rear driveshaft unless you want your GX to end up on top of you.
this is what the back of the transfer case flange looks like for the rear driveshaft to bolt to.
as you can see the bolts are stuck in place already, not 100% if its like that normally or just old lol.
the 17mm is just the size of the bolt head on the back of the flange that you need to hold with a box wrench to remove the 14mm nuts from the other side.
In fact, on mine the 17mm bolts were stuck in place from factory, so there was no need to hold it even except to keep the flange from turning on you.
The only part you need to remove and then put back and torque is the 14mm side which is just the nut.
hold the bolt head with a box wrench (or not if yours is already welded in place, still holding it provides extra support), and then remove the 14mm nut.
A "long" breaker bar is recommended to break the nuts loose the first turn, they are on tight if they have not been removed recently they can put up a fight.
Pb blaster the night before is never a bad idea on all 8 nuts, but the breaker bar does the trick every time on these.
I just did this when dropping the transfer case. differential side should be the same thing more or less.
dont overthink it, grab 14mm socket + breaker bar (removal) + torque wrench (installation), and a 17mm box wrench (hold bolts for support) and you should be good.
Make sure to lock the wheels in place when removing the driveshaft and pull up the parking brake.
Just leaving it in park will not treat you well when you pull the rear driveshaft unless you want your GX to end up on top of you.
this is what the back of the transfer case flange looks like for the rear driveshaft to bolt to.
as you can see the bolts are stuck in place already, not 100% if its like that normally or just old lol.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 05-07-15 at 11:21 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
coolhand
RX - 2nd Gen (2004-2009)
6
01-30-07 09:03 PM
Hartawan
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
13
05-14-06 03:19 AM