Booyah

Do the rear pistons in the calipers just push in like the front or does it have that special screw in piston that takes a special wrench to twist them in ??

tightlinez

The rear has a single piston caliper and it pushes in like the fronts..

Booyah

Awesome thanks alot

Tact

iTrader: (1)

I replaced my wife's '04 GX470 rotors and pads about a year ago and the rotors are warped again. The brakes just now started to make a grinding noise. I can't believe brakes and rotors are needing replaced after just one year.

Being that the rotors are just a year old and might be within specs, is it advisable to just turn the rotors as opposed to buying new again. I've always heard that when you turn them they don't last as long as new. Any truth to that? If I won't get as much life by turning I guess I'll buy new again.

BTW.....Great write-up with pics.

vxphan

I replaced this two year ago, same material from Sewel. This good for 34K miles. At 15K miles, the pulse again started badly. Today I just replaced a new set with after market Raybestos R300 and Duralast Cmax Ceramic. Much better improvement. Let see what happen in 15K miles.

RCsGX

How many miles did you drive within that year? Maybe you have a stuck / dragging caliper? Maybe you just need new pads.


When you turn a rotor you're removing material from it.



Did you replace the rotors or just the pads?

Niteblu

To avoid warping, I have found that whenever I replace the rim/tire, use a cross pattern and torque to 45 ft-lbs and then to spec at 83 ft-lbs . Also after service check torque, shops tend to "jackhammer" the lug nuts on.

ALAN553

I used to subscribe to that theory. Always used a torque wrench to tighten lugs. If for no other reason than to be able to get them off in an emergency. But I was recently enlightened. Rotors dont warp, the shudder is from the build up of brake material on the surface. Maybe from poor break in procedures, maybe from poor materials. Proper torque has never prevented this truck from getting the brake shudder.

danmm7

Fully agree!

Poor quality brake pads or frequently overheated pads or pads that were not bedded properly WILL cause the rotor "warping" by depositing on the surface over time.

Heavy cars/trucks put more stress on the brakes, even in normal driving = more heat on the pads = more deposits = more frequent "warping".
Invest in the highest possible quality brake pads that can handle high, frequent heat and you'll have a lot less rotor issues.

LexTrip

So where the parts in the OP sold as "Each" or Pairs? IE would I need to order 2 of each or 1 of each?

Also has anyone replaced the stock with after market upgrades... IE cross drilled or slotted rotors and high performance pads to help prevent future "warping"

Thanks,

LEXus_for_road_TRIPs

RCsGX

Need 1: PAD KIT, DISC BRAKE PART # 04465-35290
Need 1: SHIM KIT, FR DISC BR PART# 04945-35120 (shims can be re-used if you wanna save a few bucks)
Need 2: DISC, FR PART # 43512-60151


I've seen a few threads of members running aftermarket rotors and or pads. I'm at work and don't have the links saved in my bookmarks. If you do a google search or a search on this site you'll find them.

stiles_s

I installed some Hawk LTS pads on my existing rotors at the point where I was experiencing some pulsing (aka warping) on my 2nd set of factory rotors & pads.

Since then the LTS pads have scrubbed away the deposits (happened during the bedding phase). No more pulsing. A little bit of squealing but no more pulsing

RCsGX

How come this isn't a sticky!!>>

MODS if you can, please make this thread a sticky. This would go great w/ the spark plugs and diff oil change stickies.

RCsGX

I created a PDF in case the pictures get lost over the years.

470reasons

Great writeup. Love the pictures. I'd add just one more step:

Before installing, clean the new rotors with brake cleaner, rubbing alcohol, or other solvent to remove any residual oil. The rotors are shipped from the factory with an anti-rust coating. Pre-cleaning is better than having those nice new brake pads do the dirty work.