GX - 1st Gen (2004-2009) Discussion topics related to the 2003 -2009 GX470 models

Oil type, who changes, and warranty impact

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Old 07-19-12, 06:27 AM
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PDubs
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Default Oil type, who changes, and warranty impact

Need some help deciding on how best to NOT void my Lexus-brand used car warranty. Tried searching but could not find info on this. I was told that I could change my own oil as long as I kept all my receipts for what was purchased. Just some questions regarding my 05 GX470:

- Can I move to full synthetic oil? Car has 86k miles, although I have to check with the dealer what was added previously since they serviced it with the previous customer
- Is the oil weight 5w30?
- What is the filter size?
- Anyone know of any issues if I do this in my own garage? Don't want to void the extended warranty.
Old 07-19-12, 07:43 AM
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ALAN553
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regular oil, synthetic, your garage, my garage, just keep records if you are dealing with a warranty, synthetics last longer, oil filters also regular or synthetic, mobile 1, royal purple, amsoil, bosch all make synthetic fiber filters to match the extended drain interval of synthetic oil. Filter size? no sizes, just part numbers, different from manufacturer to manufacturer. oh and the wt is 5W-30, should be on the oil cap.
Old 07-30-12, 12:12 PM
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Rgf49er
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the dealer uses a blend. you can go to jiffy lube or do it yourself. the filter is a pain to get too but you can do it. I have over 152k and have used a blend. NO issues with the engine
Old 07-30-12, 01:40 PM
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PDubs
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Thanks guys. I completed my first oil change this weekend. That was pretty much the most pain in the *** filter I have had to deal with in a long time.
Old 07-30-12, 03:34 PM
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RickC5
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Originally Posted by PDubs
Thanks guys. I completed my first oil change this weekend. That was pretty much the most pain in the *** filter I have had to deal with in a long time.
Just changed mine for the first time last week. Pulling the front skid plate really improves filter access. Not a complicated or ugly job, just takes some time & maybe an electric drill to remove/replace all the bolts--what I used. I also replaced some of the bolts with stainless steel bolts coated with anti-sieze.
Old 07-30-12, 08:21 PM
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PDubs
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Next on my list for sure: electric drill with socket extensions!
Old 07-31-12, 05:35 AM
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RickC5
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Originally Posted by PDubs
Next on my list for sure: electric drill with socket extensions!
I use a Makita adjustable-torque drill purchased a year ago @ Home Depot. It replaced a Sears Craftsman drill that was almost twice as heavy and larger in size too. The Makita is outstanding!

But, Sears is the place to go for the socket driver bits. A set of (1) 1/4" bit and (1) 3/8" bit was either $4 or $6 for both. Great deal and they work fine.
Old 07-31-12, 08:49 AM
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PDubs
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Thanks Rick, going to Sears tonight while it's fresh in my head.
Old 07-31-12, 09:42 AM
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aledavidov
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you should be used metric sizes on lexus ?
Old 07-31-12, 02:44 PM
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EricGreen
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Mine took 6.6 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30 and I used the factory Toyota D3 filter. I remember the filter being a little messy. I also remember the skid plate bolts being metric??? It's been a while though and I've only done it once.

Last edited by EricGreen; 08-01-12 at 08:33 AM.
Old 07-31-12, 02:56 PM
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RickC5
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Originally Posted by aledavidov
you should be used metric sizes on lexus ?
Socket sets manufactured in the USA utilize a 1/4" or 3/8" or 1/2" "drive" which is the size of the square shank that the different sockets fit on. Then you use the correct size socket for the bolts you are going to loosen or tighten.

To remove the skid plate on our GXs, you need to use both 10mm and 12mm sockets. IIRC, there are four 12mm bolts and about five or six 10mm bolts. BTW, you must first remove the small plastic plate that looks like two NACA scoops and then remove the large front skid plate. The large skid plate has two small hooks on the front that can be disengaged once the bolts are removed. This all takes about three minutes with a drill.
Old 07-31-12, 06:44 PM
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cdew002
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With all the rust that area is prone to develop, I would advise avoiding an electric drill. Much more likely to strip the threads that way.
Old 07-31-12, 06:53 PM
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RickC5
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Originally Posted by cdew002
With all the rust that area is prone to develop, I would advise avoiding an electric drill. Much more likely to strip the threads that way.
To each his own--it worked perfectly for me & I'll surely use it again. If one wishes to be extra cautious, then each bolt can be started by hand & then spun-in with the drill.

BTW- There's minimal rust out here in western Colorado. Only bare steel will develop a little bit of surface rust if exposed tothe elements.
Old 08-01-12, 08:55 AM
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PDubs
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Here's the link I used to change the oil, which basically mirrors what Rick mentioned above. Went to Sears and they had the 3/8" and 1/4" for $7 total after taxes. I'm glad someone else used about 6.5 quarts of oil as well as mine came out to the same requirement.

I agree that the rust is something that needs to be monitored, but this is my third car in 12 years that has never left Texas and I have not seen rusty bolts on any of them (knock on wood).
Old 08-01-12, 06:14 PM
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clubsport
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or just park near the gravel and take the filter off from the top...


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