llebcire

Installing factory hitch and was removing the 17mm bolts by hand. One pictured (passenger side) snapped the nut loose that's welded into the frame (best guess) as it now just spins.

Looking for options/opinions:

The frame appears to be boxed on all sides so there isn't access spot - it feels like the back is closed off as well but I'd like to hear from someone who knows before I pull the bumper to look.

Is there an access hole that I'm missing so that I could wedge something between the frame and the nut so that I can remove it?

Do I need to have a body shop create an access hole, re-weld the nut, then close the access?

12 bolts in a 6500 lb hitch seems to be a bit of overkill - looks like the 6500 lb limitation is from the vehicle/brakes/etc. and not the hitch. Thoughts on running without this one bolt?

Thanks!

-Eric

z0lt3c

iTrader: (1)

Those are the most important bolts in the design. It would probably be fine but depends on vale of what you are towing.

I would suggest drilling it out and using a hexicoil type insert vs gaining access through frame. If that was your only probably with the nuts threading and bolts snapping, you are ahead of the game.

llebcire

Thanks for the reply!

There's nothing to drill out as the bolt is now free floating attached to the nut inside the frame. After I cut the bolt I'll have an opening in the frame rail slighy larger than the bolt and only as thick as the frame - wouldn't think it would be enough for a tap to grip tightly enough to add any structural signifigance.

-Eric

BurgBoxstr

Agreed, gaining access thru frame not best or obviously easiest idea. Once you cut bolt loose (you'll not be able to retrieve captive part though), best bet would be to use a blind threaded insert (aka pem-sert). They make them for high load applications such as this; check w/ local Grainger or Fastenal store.

Good luck

llebcire

Great advice BurgBoxstr! Guess it's along the same lines as what z0lt3c mentioned but I'd never thought of a blind threaded insert.

I'll cut the bolt and find an insert somewhere locally.

Hopefully this will be the worst of what I run into installing this hitch

-Eric

llebcire

Stage one complete - now to find the insert and pick up some Permatex

-Eric

Exhaust hanger did a great job giving me a hand.

llebcire

Here's what I ended up getting in a 12mm configuration:

http://avkfasteners.com/products.AL.php#pn_standard



-Eric

redrocks

Cool! Are you going to hammer them into the existing hole or use the installation tool?

llebcire

Great question - I had the same one!

After discussing with the distributor and looking at the installation video, there isn't an installation tool per se. The tool they reference is essentially a high speed drill.

I will open up the existing hole with a drill until the insert fits snugly then insert and tighten by hand.

Shouldn't be too tough!

-Eric

redrocks

What kind of drill bit are u using? Titanium? Or something better?

llebcire

Just using a standard bit.

GM frames are like butter, Ford's are pretty tough so this should be in between.

Also, the frame opening is the correct size I just need to open the old frame plate inside the rail.

redrocks

Thanks for the info.

llebcire

So this insert didn't work - just spun in the hole and as I found by messing with one it takes a tremendous amount of force to get this thing to crush.

Looks like I have a couple of options:

J-bolt - can't find anything in the way of specs

Having a body shop weld a stud into the frame

Create an "access hole" above the opening so I can get a nut into the frame - thinking 3/4" x 1.25" - don't know if it would affect the structural stability of the frame but I can't imagine it would.

-Eric

Let me know if pics don't work - using Picasa as Photobucket seems to be having issues.

BurgBoxstr

Blind threaded inserts only work after you get them to compress. Of course getting them to compress is easiest when the are sized right for the hole. Not sure how you attempted to get it to compress but if you haven't already, put a nut on the bolt a bit below the head. Then put a fender washer (or two) on. Thread this all into the insert (order should be: insert - washer - nut - bolt head) so washer/nut is snug up against insert's collar. Put into hole and while using wrench/socket to keep bolt (and thus insert) still, tighten down the nut against the washer. This will cause the insert to compress and flange out... obviously use a high strength bolt too.

Good luck

Otherwise, you could just mount using most of the bolts and then take to a local weld shop...

llebcire

Install failed - I couldn't get the bolts on both frame rails to align. When one was aligned the other was off by 1/2" - 3/4".

So - either my vehicle's frame is tweaked or something happened to the vehicle this hitch came from (was her parent's but purchased pre-owned). I didn't see any evidence the entire time I've been under my vehicle that the frame has been massaged back into place.

I was able to get the bolt installed and will leave in place (with nut & lock washer) until I find another hitch.

-Eric