Earlier 470s & front axle replacement?
02-21-13, 09:57 PM
#16
Lexus Test Driver
No real rough driving or off roading per say. 20 miles a day on pot hole stricken streets on the way to work and the occasional back country dirt roads of west Texas. Other than that the miles are all city streets and Interstate.
I climb under the truck once a week to check the boots and the seal with the axle and transmission. I keep expecting to find a bad axle but havent yet, knock on wood.
I climb under the truck once a week to check the boots and the seal with the axle and transmission. I keep expecting to find a bad axle but havent yet, knock on wood.
Last edited by infinirx; 02-22-13 at 12:19 AM.
02-22-13, 07:24 AM
#17
Agreed, I think they help the thread as well.
There is no core charge so you don't send em the used one. They are aftermarket axles made in China (hence the low price). In my opinion the boot kits are expensive because they (toyota) know most people would rather keep the original OEM axle that came on their truck rather than take the gamble that I did and ditch it for an aftermarket one.
I like to do as much work on the truck as I can, only want to send it too the shop as a last resort. That being said, when I looked at rebooting vs. a new axle the price of parts was fairly equal but the time, hassle, work that went into rebooting was double that of just replacing it. I had to replace the passenger side axle either way because it began to grind, so it made no sense to turn around and just do boots on the driver side for the above reason.
There is no core charge so you don't send em the used one. They are aftermarket axles made in China (hence the low price). In my opinion the boot kits are expensive because they (toyota) know most people would rather keep the original OEM axle that came on their truck rather than take the gamble that I did and ditch it for an aftermarket one.
I like to do as much work on the truck as I can, only want to send it too the shop as a last resort. That being said, when I looked at rebooting vs. a new axle the price of parts was fairly equal but the time, hassle, work that went into rebooting was double that of just replacing it. I had to replace the passenger side axle either way because it began to grind, so it made no sense to turn around and just do boots on the driver side for the above reason.
02-22-13, 08:14 AM
#18
Again, thank you all for the great information. UPDATE: Took the truck back into the dealer this morning, told them that i want to see all the CV boots and make a decision then about how to proceed.
CV Boots are not cracked, in expected condition for 120k miles, and only leaking grease from the clamps.
I am going to reclamp both sides as well as have them pack in whatever grease they can and save myself $1100!!! As you said, the clamps are cheap and the labor is simple.
Thank you again! I have been schooled by the best here on the forum!
CV Boots are not cracked, in expected condition for 120k miles, and only leaking grease from the clamps.
I am going to reclamp both sides as well as have them pack in whatever grease they can and save myself $1100!!! As you said, the clamps are cheap and the labor is simple.
Thank you again! I have been schooled by the best here on the forum!
02-22-13, 10:04 AM
#19
Lexus Test Driver
dont even pay them to do that. You can do it all yourself with a common food injector and some worm driven smooth side clamps. Like these: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/283/=llapf6 430 Ss Smooth-band Worm-drive Hose Clamp, 1-1/4" To 2" Clamp Dia Range, 3/8" Band Width
then get you some cv grease from your local auto parts store and a food injector with a plastic needle. Unclamp the boots and pack the grease into the food injector. Slide that plastic needle underneath the boot lip and squeeze all that grease back in there. It may take 2-3 injectors worth. Reclamp with new hose clamps.
Enjoy a beer. You just saved yourself hundreds in labor cost...all for 15 minutes of work.
then get you some cv grease from your local auto parts store and a food injector with a plastic needle. Unclamp the boots and pack the grease into the food injector. Slide that plastic needle underneath the boot lip and squeeze all that grease back in there. It may take 2-3 injectors worth. Reclamp with new hose clamps.
Enjoy a beer. You just saved yourself hundreds in labor cost...all for 15 minutes of work.
02-22-13, 10:52 AM
#20
Lexus Test Driver
Agreed, I think they help the thread as well.
There is no core charge so you don't send em the used one. They are aftermarket axles made in China (hence the low price). In my opinion the boot kits are expensive because they (toyota) know most people would rather keep the original OEM axle that came on their truck rather than take the gamble that I did and ditch it for an aftermarket one.
I like to do as much work on the truck as I can, only want to send it too the shop as a last resort. That being said, when I looked at rebooting vs. a new axle the price of parts was fairly equal but the time, hassle, work that went into rebooting was double that of just replacing it. I had to replace the passenger side axle either way because it began to grind, so it made no sense to turn around and just do boots on the driver side for the above reason.
There is no core charge so you don't send em the used one. They are aftermarket axles made in China (hence the low price). In my opinion the boot kits are expensive because they (toyota) know most people would rather keep the original OEM axle that came on their truck rather than take the gamble that I did and ditch it for an aftermarket one.
I like to do as much work on the truck as I can, only want to send it too the shop as a last resort. That being said, when I looked at rebooting vs. a new axle the price of parts was fairly equal but the time, hassle, work that went into rebooting was double that of just replacing it. I had to replace the passenger side axle either way because it began to grind, so it made no sense to turn around and just do boots on the driver side for the above reason.
02-22-13, 07:39 PM
#21
Everything I read about Cardone, there is nothing but good said about them. That was what ended up helping me decide to go with new axles instead of over priced OEM refurbs.
02-22-13, 08:07 PM
#22
Lexus Test Driver
100% positive. I had "made in China" stamped on both Cardone Select CV axle boxes that the axles came in. I didn't actually see any markings (of any kind) on the axes themselves. NAPA sells the exact same axle (Cardone Select) that has been rebranded as their own and I've had parts managers at 2 NAPA locations confirm they are made in China.
Everything I read about Cardone, there is nothing but good said about them. That was what ended up helping me decide to go with new axles instead of over priced OEM refurbs.
Everything I read about Cardone, there is nothing but good said about them. That was what ended up helping me decide to go with new axles instead of over priced OEM refurbs.
03-04-13, 07:05 PM
#23
Lexus Test Driver
I am kind of hoping its just a loose or busted clamp. We are gonna look it over in the morning when we change the rotors and brakes. I have yet to see the problem myself.
03-04-13, 07:44 PM
#24
Again, thank you all for the great information. UPDATE: Took the truck back into the dealer this morning, told them that i want to see all the CV boots and make a decision then about how to proceed.
CV Boots are not cracked, in expected condition for 120k miles, and only leaking grease from the clamps.
I am going to reclamp both sides as well as have them pack in whatever grease they can and save myself $1100!!! As you said, the clamps are cheap and the labor is simple.
Thank you again! I have been schooled by the best here on the forum!
CV Boots are not cracked, in expected condition for 120k miles, and only leaking grease from the clamps.
I am going to reclamp both sides as well as have them pack in whatever grease they can and save myself $1100!!! As you said, the clamps are cheap and the labor is simple.
Thank you again! I have been schooled by the best here on the forum!
03-19-13, 06:27 PM
#26
03-20-13, 12:17 AM
#28
Other than getting the axle nut free the most trouble i had was getting the new axle seated into the tranny... took a second set of hands to finally get it in there. My buddy pushing the axle in and me using a wooden stake and rubber mallett against the lip that seats up next to the tranny to coax it in.
Last edited by bauer26; 03-20-13 at 12:30 AM.
03-20-13, 12:43 AM
#29
Lexus Test Driver
It ain't bad so long as you get the right axle nut socket, 37mm??? i can't remember exactly, and a breaker bar. If you're borrowing the socket from autozone or where ever take the axle nut that comes with the new axle into the store with ya.... had i done so i would have saved myself 3 trips in the middle of the work
Other than getting the axle nut free the most trouble i had was getting the new axle seated into the tranny... took a second set of hands to finally get it in there. My buddy pushing the axle in and me using a wooden stake and rubber mallett against the lip that seats up next to the tranny to coax it in.
Other than getting the axle nut free the most trouble i had was getting the new axle seated into the tranny... took a second set of hands to finally get it in there. My buddy pushing the axle in and me using a wooden stake and rubber mallett against the lip that seats up next to the tranny to coax it in.
