Where is the Bump Stop?
12-06-11, 03:48 AM
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Where is the Bump Stop?
Need some help identifying the "Bump Stop". Is this part #'s 48597A/48530G the bump stop? Does anyone know what part #'s 48306A and 48036 do? Thanks.
12-06-11, 09:41 AM
#2
Essentially their job is to act like a super stiff "spring" and slow the axle down and stop/reverse it as it approaches the body, avoiding damage to the chassis (from the axle just slamming into the chassis), and unsettling the handling as little as possible.
In *some* cars the suspension engineers actually want the bump stops in play during day to day driving and they play the role of a stiffer secondary/progressive spring. In others, they're a last-ditch effort to avoid metal on metal contact when the suspension compresses farther than it should. In the GX, I'm guessing they're more the latter, but I'm not a suspension engineer, and I've felt how bad the ride gets when you spend a lot of time bouncing off of the bump stops.
12-06-11, 10:06 AM
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Hey Stiles_s,
I suspected 48306A and 48036 were the "bump stops" you were referring to. So, to gain some insight from your experience... You've already replaced the OEM Shocks with new ones at approx 60K miles and I suspect you haven't had any issues since. Is it reasonable to conclude that if the shock absorbers were "bad", then hitting the bump stops would be a regular occurrence going over speed bumps or pot holes? Would you agree with that? If you're only hitting the bump stops infrequently, could this attributed to the height sensors?
Additionally, do you know if the GX's Adaptive Variable Suspension (AVS) adjusts itself when adding passengers (additional weight in second row seats)?
Thanks for your inputs.
I suspected 48306A and 48036 were the "bump stops" you were referring to. So, to gain some insight from your experience... You've already replaced the OEM Shocks with new ones at approx 60K miles and I suspect you haven't had any issues since. Is it reasonable to conclude that if the shock absorbers were "bad", then hitting the bump stops would be a regular occurrence going over speed bumps or pot holes? Would you agree with that? If you're only hitting the bump stops infrequently, could this attributed to the height sensors?
Additionally, do you know if the GX's Adaptive Variable Suspension (AVS) adjusts itself when adding passengers (additional weight in second row seats)?
Thanks for your inputs.
12-07-11, 02:32 AM
#4
OK, I am not stiles_s. Hope he doesn't mind that I put in my 2 cents.
Let's talk bumper stops. I know they have been around for at least 70 years, probably more. Usually, the rubber bumper stop (big block of rubber), is mounted to the frame, in a location above the rear end, where it can contact the axle shaft on either side of the rear end. Sometimes the axle shaft has a flat plate welded in that location, sometimes not. It is a safeguard against metal to metal contact. If you rotate your own tires, the blocks are visible when you remove the rear wheels.
Most cars started out with leaf springs. You can even see big ones on stage coaches or buggies. Put enough leaf springs together and you can loose fillings in your teeth. Then along came coils springs, which are much smoother. Then air bags, like riding on a ballon. I had air ride in my 1985 Caddy.
Now lets talk basic shocks. Most shocks are filled with hydraulic oil. They usually have an equal resistance in either direction. In other words 50/50. I used to do a lot of drag racing an actually wanted a 90/10 shock on the front. The front end would come up quickly, to throw weight on the back end for traction, then come down slowly. Hence 90/10. Shocks are similar to what we see on some exercise equipment. They provide resistance in either direction.
The two variables on how long they last, are age and actual use (mileage). Even the best shock, can die of old age. Not all worn out shocks leak oil. New shocks out of the package, you can barely move in either direction with your hands, even if you put one end on the ground. Severely worn out shocks, have very little resistance. I used to unbolt the bottom end of the shock and work it up and down with my arms. No resistance and they are shot. And your bumper stops are definately hitting the rear end.
In average cars with shocks or struts, if you put your knee on the bumper and push down hard and let go, the car/ truck should go down, come back up, and just slightly bounce once. It should not continue to bounce like a bobble head doll. I don't recommend putting knees on our front bumper, just hands.
When you load more people in the car, or hook up a trailer, the compressor comes on, because the height sensors tell it to, and pump more air into the rubber bags, lifting the back of the car (car should be running).
The ride control switch (4 position), only controls the rear. It regulates fluid or air, to make the rear end more or less likely to move up and down.
Here comes the opinion. 70k, 80k miles, shocks are not working as good as day one. A worn shock can contribute to the rear end touching the bumper stop, even if the height sensors are working properly. With everything working properly, you will occasionally hit the bumper stops when going fast over a speed bump or hit a big chuck hole. Our cars are designed for a smooth ride and to even out the load, which is normally put on the rear of the vehicle. Mann77, can probably take you deeper into the rabbit hole, if you want to go there.
Let's talk bumper stops. I know they have been around for at least 70 years, probably more. Usually, the rubber bumper stop (big block of rubber), is mounted to the frame, in a location above the rear end, where it can contact the axle shaft on either side of the rear end. Sometimes the axle shaft has a flat plate welded in that location, sometimes not. It is a safeguard against metal to metal contact. If you rotate your own tires, the blocks are visible when you remove the rear wheels.
Most cars started out with leaf springs. You can even see big ones on stage coaches or buggies. Put enough leaf springs together and you can loose fillings in your teeth. Then along came coils springs, which are much smoother. Then air bags, like riding on a ballon. I had air ride in my 1985 Caddy.
Now lets talk basic shocks. Most shocks are filled with hydraulic oil. They usually have an equal resistance in either direction. In other words 50/50. I used to do a lot of drag racing an actually wanted a 90/10 shock on the front. The front end would come up quickly, to throw weight on the back end for traction, then come down slowly. Hence 90/10. Shocks are similar to what we see on some exercise equipment. They provide resistance in either direction.
The two variables on how long they last, are age and actual use (mileage). Even the best shock, can die of old age. Not all worn out shocks leak oil. New shocks out of the package, you can barely move in either direction with your hands, even if you put one end on the ground. Severely worn out shocks, have very little resistance. I used to unbolt the bottom end of the shock and work it up and down with my arms. No resistance and they are shot. And your bumper stops are definately hitting the rear end.
In average cars with shocks or struts, if you put your knee on the bumper and push down hard and let go, the car/ truck should go down, come back up, and just slightly bounce once. It should not continue to bounce like a bobble head doll. I don't recommend putting knees on our front bumper, just hands.
When you load more people in the car, or hook up a trailer, the compressor comes on, because the height sensors tell it to, and pump more air into the rubber bags, lifting the back of the car (car should be running).
The ride control switch (4 position), only controls the rear. It regulates fluid or air, to make the rear end more or less likely to move up and down.
Here comes the opinion. 70k, 80k miles, shocks are not working as good as day one. A worn shock can contribute to the rear end touching the bumper stop, even if the height sensors are working properly. With everything working properly, you will occasionally hit the bumper stops when going fast over a speed bump or hit a big chuck hole. Our cars are designed for a smooth ride and to even out the load, which is normally put on the rear of the vehicle. Mann77, can probably take you deeper into the rabbit hole, if you want to go there.
12-07-11, 03:31 AM
#5
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
OK, I am not stiles_s. Hope he doesn't mind that I put in my 2 cents.
Let's talk bumper stops. I know they have been around for at least 70 years, probably more. Usually, the rubber bumper stop (big block of rubber), is mounted to the frame, in a location above the rear end, where it can contact the axle shaft on either side of the rear end. Sometimes the axle shaft has a flat plate welded in that location, sometimes not. It is a safeguard against metal to metal contact. If you rotate your own tires, the blocks are visible when you remove the rear wheels.
Most cars started out with leaf springs. You can even see big ones on stage coaches or buggies. Put enough leaf springs together and you can loose fillings in your teeth. Then along came coils springs, which are much smoother. Then air bags, like riding on a ballon. I had air ride in my 1985 Caddy.
Now lets talk basic shocks. Most shocks are filled with hydraulic oil. They usually have an equal resistance in either direction. In other words 50/50. I used to do a lot of drag racing an actually wanted a 90/10 shock on the front. The front end would come up quickly, to throw weight on the back end for traction, then come down slowly. Hence 90/10. Shocks are similar to what we see on some exercise equipment. They provide resistance in either direction.
The two variables on how long they last, are age and actual use (mileage). Even the best shock, can die of old age. Not all worn out shocks leak oil. New shocks out of the package, you can barely move in either direction with your hands, even if you put one end on the ground. Severely worn out shocks, have very little resistance. I used to unbolt the bottom end of the shock and work it up and down with my arms. No resistance and they are shot. And your bumper stops are definately hitting the rear end.
In average cars with shocks or struts, if you put your knee on the bumper and push down hard and let go, the car/ truck should go down, come back up, and just slightly bounce once. It should not continue to bounce like a bobble head doll. I don't recommend putting knees on our front bumper, just hands.
When you load more people in the car, or hook up a trailer, the compressor comes on, because the height sensors tell it to, and pump more air into the rubber bags, lifting the back of the car (car should be running).
The ride control switch (4 position), only controls the rear. It regulates fluid or air, to make the rear end more or less likely to move up and down.
Here comes the opinion. 70k, 80k miles, shocks are not working as good as day one. A worn shock can contribute to the rear end touching the bumper stop, even if the height sensors are working properly. With everything working properly, you will occasionally hit the bumper stops when going fast over a speed bump or hit a big chuck hole. Our cars are designed for a smooth ride and to even out the load, which is normally put on the rear of the vehicle. Mann77, can probably take you deeper into the rabbit hole, if you want to go there.
Let's talk bumper stops. I know they have been around for at least 70 years, probably more. Usually, the rubber bumper stop (big block of rubber), is mounted to the frame, in a location above the rear end, where it can contact the axle shaft on either side of the rear end. Sometimes the axle shaft has a flat plate welded in that location, sometimes not. It is a safeguard against metal to metal contact. If you rotate your own tires, the blocks are visible when you remove the rear wheels.
Most cars started out with leaf springs. You can even see big ones on stage coaches or buggies. Put enough leaf springs together and you can loose fillings in your teeth. Then along came coils springs, which are much smoother. Then air bags, like riding on a ballon. I had air ride in my 1985 Caddy.
Now lets talk basic shocks. Most shocks are filled with hydraulic oil. They usually have an equal resistance in either direction. In other words 50/50. I used to do a lot of drag racing an actually wanted a 90/10 shock on the front. The front end would come up quickly, to throw weight on the back end for traction, then come down slowly. Hence 90/10. Shocks are similar to what we see on some exercise equipment. They provide resistance in either direction.
The two variables on how long they last, are age and actual use (mileage). Even the best shock, can die of old age. Not all worn out shocks leak oil. New shocks out of the package, you can barely move in either direction with your hands, even if you put one end on the ground. Severely worn out shocks, have very little resistance. I used to unbolt the bottom end of the shock and work it up and down with my arms. No resistance and they are shot. And your bumper stops are definately hitting the rear end.
In average cars with shocks or struts, if you put your knee on the bumper and push down hard and let go, the car/ truck should go down, come back up, and just slightly bounce once. It should not continue to bounce like a bobble head doll. I don't recommend putting knees on our front bumper, just hands.
When you load more people in the car, or hook up a trailer, the compressor comes on, because the height sensors tell it to, and pump more air into the rubber bags, lifting the back of the car (car should be running).
The ride control switch (4 position), only controls the rear. It regulates fluid or air, to make the rear end more or less likely to move up and down.
Here comes the opinion. 70k, 80k miles, shocks are not working as good as day one. A worn shock can contribute to the rear end touching the bumper stop, even if the height sensors are working properly. With everything working properly, you will occasionally hit the bumper stops when going fast over a speed bump or hit a big chuck hole. Our cars are designed for a smooth ride and to even out the load, which is normally put on the rear of the vehicle. Mann77, can probably take you deeper into the rabbit hole, if you want to go there.
Your 2 cents are very welcomed (as are all CL members). The objective here is to share information that may be useful to others. As some members have noted, they've cycled through the height adjustment switch (N-L-H-N) to remedy (temporarily) rough/harsh suspension ride. I'm trying to determine whether the rough/harsh ride is attributed to AVS not working correctly or the shock absorbers themselves. Yes, I'm aware of the "bounce" test whereby you push hard on the corners of the vehicle to see the vehicle bounce response. Yes, shocks life expectancy is dependent on several factors.
Thanks for your inputs. Welcome to the CL!
12-07-11, 04:04 AM
#6
I do cycle my height up and down as other do, when I think about it, before pulling out of my driveway. In my mind, it keeps the parts moving maybe less likely to fail? Approaching 60,000 miles, don't have that problem yet. Keep my gas tank always above half, so that is an extra 80lbs, and carry about 150lbs in equipment. Very rarely do I hit the bump stops.
12-07-11, 03:07 PM
#7
OK, I am not stiles_s. Hope he doesn't mind that I put in my 2 cents.
Let's talk bumper stops. I know they have been around for at least 70 years, probably more. Usually, the rubber bumper stop (big block of rubber), is mounted to the frame, in a location above the rear end, where it can contact the axle shaft on either side of the rear end. Sometimes the axle shaft has a flat plate welded in that location, sometimes not. It is a safeguard against metal to metal contact. If you rotate your own tires, the blocks are visible when you remove the rear wheels.
Most cars started out with leaf springs. You can even see big ones on stage coaches or buggies. Put enough leaf springs together and you can loose fillings in your teeth. Then along came coils springs, which are much smoother. Then air bags, like riding on a ballon. I had air ride in my 1985 Caddy.
Now lets talk basic shocks. Most shocks are filled with hydraulic oil. They usually have an equal resistance in either direction. In other words 50/50. I used to do a lot of drag racing an actually wanted a 90/10 shock on the front. The front end would come up quickly, to throw weight on the back end for traction, then come down slowly. Hence 90/10. Shocks are similar to what we see on some exercise equipment. They provide resistance in either direction.
The two variables on how long they last, are age and actual use (mileage). Even the best shock, can die of old age. Not all worn out shocks leak oil. New shocks out of the package, you can barely move in either direction with your hands, even if you put one end on the ground. Severely worn out shocks, have very little resistance. I used to unbolt the bottom end of the shock and work it up and down with my arms. No resistance and they are shot. And your bumper stops are definately hitting the rear end.
In average cars with shocks or struts, if you put your knee on the bumper and push down hard and let go, the car/ truck should go down, come back up, and just slightly bounce once. It should not continue to bounce like a bobble head doll. I don't recommend putting knees on our front bumper, just hands.
When you load more people in the car, or hook up a trailer, the compressor comes on, because the height sensors tell it to, and pump more air into the rubber bags, lifting the back of the car (car should be running).
The ride control switch (4 position), only controls the rear. It regulates fluid or air, to make the rear end more or less likely to move up and down.
Here comes the opinion. 70k, 80k miles, shocks are not working as good as day one. A worn shock can contribute to the rear end touching the bumper stop, even if the height sensors are working properly. With everything working properly, you will occasionally hit the bumper stops when going fast over a speed bump or hit a big chuck hole. Our cars are designed for a smooth ride and to even out the load, which is normally put on the rear of the vehicle. Mann77, can probably take you deeper into the rabbit hole, if you want to go there.
Let's talk bumper stops. I know they have been around for at least 70 years, probably more. Usually, the rubber bumper stop (big block of rubber), is mounted to the frame, in a location above the rear end, where it can contact the axle shaft on either side of the rear end. Sometimes the axle shaft has a flat plate welded in that location, sometimes not. It is a safeguard against metal to metal contact. If you rotate your own tires, the blocks are visible when you remove the rear wheels.
Most cars started out with leaf springs. You can even see big ones on stage coaches or buggies. Put enough leaf springs together and you can loose fillings in your teeth. Then along came coils springs, which are much smoother. Then air bags, like riding on a ballon. I had air ride in my 1985 Caddy.
Now lets talk basic shocks. Most shocks are filled with hydraulic oil. They usually have an equal resistance in either direction. In other words 50/50. I used to do a lot of drag racing an actually wanted a 90/10 shock on the front. The front end would come up quickly, to throw weight on the back end for traction, then come down slowly. Hence 90/10. Shocks are similar to what we see on some exercise equipment. They provide resistance in either direction.
The two variables on how long they last, are age and actual use (mileage). Even the best shock, can die of old age. Not all worn out shocks leak oil. New shocks out of the package, you can barely move in either direction with your hands, even if you put one end on the ground. Severely worn out shocks, have very little resistance. I used to unbolt the bottom end of the shock and work it up and down with my arms. No resistance and they are shot. And your bumper stops are definately hitting the rear end.
In average cars with shocks or struts, if you put your knee on the bumper and push down hard and let go, the car/ truck should go down, come back up, and just slightly bounce once. It should not continue to bounce like a bobble head doll. I don't recommend putting knees on our front bumper, just hands.
When you load more people in the car, or hook up a trailer, the compressor comes on, because the height sensors tell it to, and pump more air into the rubber bags, lifting the back of the car (car should be running).
The ride control switch (4 position), only controls the rear. It regulates fluid or air, to make the rear end more or less likely to move up and down.
Here comes the opinion. 70k, 80k miles, shocks are not working as good as day one. A worn shock can contribute to the rear end touching the bumper stop, even if the height sensors are working properly. With everything working properly, you will occasionally hit the bumper stops when going fast over a speed bump or hit a big chuck hole. Our cars are designed for a smooth ride and to even out the load, which is normally put on the rear of the vehicle. Mann77, can probably take you deeper into the rabbit hole, if you want to go there.
Great reply, thanks. Sorry if it feels like I'm monopolizing. Just have a lot of thoughts about suspension after years fiddling w/it.
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12-07-11, 03:16 PM
#8
Ancient,
Your 2 cents are very welcomed (as are all CL members). The objective here is to share information that may be useful to others. As some members have noted, they've cycled through the height adjustment switch (N-L-H-N) to remedy (temporarily) rough/harsh suspension ride. I'm trying to determine whether the rough/harsh ride is attributed to AVS not working correctly or the shock absorbers themselves. Yes, I'm aware of the "bounce" test whereby you push hard on the corners of the vehicle to see the vehicle bounce response. Yes, shocks life expectancy is dependent on several factors.
Thanks for your inputs. Welcome to the CL!
Your 2 cents are very welcomed (as are all CL members). The objective here is to share information that may be useful to others. As some members have noted, they've cycled through the height adjustment switch (N-L-H-N) to remedy (temporarily) rough/harsh suspension ride. I'm trying to determine whether the rough/harsh ride is attributed to AVS not working correctly or the shock absorbers themselves. Yes, I'm aware of the "bounce" test whereby you push hard on the corners of the vehicle to see the vehicle bounce response. Yes, shocks life expectancy is dependent on several factors.
Thanks for your inputs. Welcome to the CL!
I have a theory why the cycling helps, but it's just a theory.
The height adjustment on our trucks is pretty crude in terms of accuracy and repeatability. Especially when it is in "maintainance" mode -- trying to keep it roughly at the same height. In daily use, without cycling, the rear height of my truck can vary up to an inch on either side. I hear the compressor kicking in, or some air escaping, as it adjusts. It just isn't super accurate. Cycling up/down is like a big "reset" button, where it gets to measure from scratch and isnt' trying to do a rough equalization of the two sides to keep things in sync.
So, the reason I think cycling works is that you can end up with one or both sides of the truck *below* spec in daily use. I think the POTS system is a fairly blunt instrument with some tolerances built in.
If your'e below spec, then you're more likely to be coming into contact with the bump stops -- especially if your shocks are worn.
Cycling the shocks does a more accurate job of resetting to factory height, which in turn probably gives you a bit of additional breathing room between the axle and the bump stop.
Just my theory
12-07-11, 05:24 PM
#9
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
The AVS is still a wildcard/mystery to me, so I'm just going to assume it mostly works like a typical adjustable shock -- at least against the same principles. What I'm curiuos about is whether or not it tries to adapt to its own weakening/aging, causing harshness. Kind of like the old dude down the street
I have a theory why the cycling helps, but it's just a theory.
The height adjustment on our trucks is pretty crude in terms of accuracy and repeatability. Especially when it is in "maintainance" mode -- trying to keep it roughly at the same height. In daily use, without cycling, the rear height of my truck can vary up to an inch on either side. I hear the compressor kicking in, or some air escaping, as it adjusts. It just isn't super accurate. Cycling up/down is like a big "reset" button, where it gets to measure from scratch and isnt' trying to do a rough equalization of the two sides to keep things in sync.
So, the reason I think cycling works is that you can end up with one or both sides of the truck *below* spec in daily use. I think the POTS system is a fairly blunt instrument with some tolerances built in.
If your'e below spec, then you're more likely to be coming into contact with the bump stops -- especially if your shocks are worn.
Cycling the shocks does a more accurate job of resetting to factory height, which in turn probably gives you a bit of additional breathing room between the axle and the bump stop.
Just my theory
I have a theory why the cycling helps, but it's just a theory.
The height adjustment on our trucks is pretty crude in terms of accuracy and repeatability. Especially when it is in "maintainance" mode -- trying to keep it roughly at the same height. In daily use, without cycling, the rear height of my truck can vary up to an inch on either side. I hear the compressor kicking in, or some air escaping, as it adjusts. It just isn't super accurate. Cycling up/down is like a big "reset" button, where it gets to measure from scratch and isnt' trying to do a rough equalization of the two sides to keep things in sync.
So, the reason I think cycling works is that you can end up with one or both sides of the truck *below* spec in daily use. I think the POTS system is a fairly blunt instrument with some tolerances built in.
If your'e below spec, then you're more likely to be coming into contact with the bump stops -- especially if your shocks are worn.
Cycling the shocks does a more accurate job of resetting to factory height, which in turn probably gives you a bit of additional breathing room between the axle and the bump stop.
Just my theory
12-07-11, 06:03 PM
#10
redrocks, how many miles do you have on your truck? Are the shocks stock?
stiles_s, I agree with your thinking. Weak shocks, riding on the low side of the height sensor, equals, hitting the bump stops.
stiles_s, I agree with your thinking. Weak shocks, riding on the low side of the height sensor, equals, hitting the bump stops.
12-07-11, 07:08 PM
#11
Instructor
I'm not sure if this was touched upon during this thread or an old one I read but here it goes. As the truck ages and the shocks become "less" effective I believe you can compensate by adjusting the ride height sensor. Basically you can adjust within a certain limit where you want "normal" to be. Adjusting slightly higher would give that much more space between the bumper and the axle. I have hit the bumper stops before but not very common. My question is How is the adjustment made? Is it a bolt, screw etc.?
12-07-11, 09:09 PM
#12
ROSCOGX470 There is another thread, with a posting in the start of December. On page 3, there is a picture of the ride height sensors and how to adjust with basic tools. Hopefully, I copied this link correctly:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...version-2.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gx-...version-2.html
12-08-11, 04:29 AM
#13
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Have 62K miles on original OEM shocks. Shocks are not leaking and pushing down on corners of vehicle doesn't cause excessive bounce. Additionally, problem does not occur all the time (every few months). Weak or worn shocks would exhibit problems regularly/daily, right?
12-08-11, 05:05 AM
#14
redrocks, in the same boat, about the same mileage, but two years less in age of shocks. Worn shocks can cause cupping in the tires. Cupping would be high and low spots in the tires/ tread. If your tires are wearing evenly, then you shocks are probably still fine.
Obviously, alignment can cause uneven wear, but not necessarily cupping. Never see too many comments on alignment. Thank the full truck frame for that and the components.
Shocks keep your tires in contact with the road. Did enough racing to be a lengend in my own mind. Tapping your breaks once, before going into a curve, sets up the suspension, to keep in contact with the road. Breaking hard, once in the curve. lowers the supension/ travel, and you could loose traction easier over any bumps in the road. Don't plan to race my 5000 lb plus, with the aerodynamics of brick, top heavy truck, anytime soon. However, it is a good suggestion for driving on ice or snow, to do most of the breaking in a straight line, before that curve.
Obviously, alignment can cause uneven wear, but not necessarily cupping. Never see too many comments on alignment. Thank the full truck frame for that and the components.
Shocks keep your tires in contact with the road. Did enough racing to be a lengend in my own mind. Tapping your breaks once, before going into a curve, sets up the suspension, to keep in contact with the road. Breaking hard, once in the curve. lowers the supension/ travel, and you could loose traction easier over any bumps in the road. Don't plan to race my 5000 lb plus, with the aerodynamics of brick, top heavy truck, anytime soon. However, it is a good suggestion for driving on ice or snow, to do most of the breaking in a straight line, before that curve.
12-08-11, 06:03 AM
#15
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
redrocks, in the same boat, about the same mileage, but two years less in age of shocks. Worn shocks can cause cupping in the tires. Cupping would be high and low spots in the tires/ tread. If your tires are wearing evenly, then you shocks are probably still fine.
Obviously, alignment can cause uneven wear, but not necessarily cupping. Never see too many comments on alignment. Thank the full truck frame for that and the components.
Shocks keep your tires in contact with the road. Did enough racing to be a lengend in my own mind. Tapping your breaks once, before going into a curve, sets up the suspension, to keep in contact with the road. Breaking hard, once in the curve. lowers the supension/ travel, and you could loose traction easier over any bumps in the road. Don't plan to race my 5000 lb plus, with the aerodynamics of brick, top heavy truck, anytime soon. However, it is a good suggestion for driving on ice or snow, to do most of the breaking in a straight line, before that curve.
Obviously, alignment can cause uneven wear, but not necessarily cupping. Never see too many comments on alignment. Thank the full truck frame for that and the components.
Shocks keep your tires in contact with the road. Did enough racing to be a lengend in my own mind. Tapping your breaks once, before going into a curve, sets up the suspension, to keep in contact with the road. Breaking hard, once in the curve. lowers the supension/ travel, and you could loose traction easier over any bumps in the road. Don't plan to race my 5000 lb plus, with the aerodynamics of brick, top heavy truck, anytime soon. However, it is a good suggestion for driving on ice or snow, to do most of the breaking in a straight line, before that curve.
Thanks for your inputs. It helps to get the crowdsourcing to get inputs to gain collective knowledge/thoghts on the root cause of this problem.