What did you do to your GX TODAY?
06-10-15, 07:38 PM
#541
Driver School Candidate
I have 145k on original O2's. This is NOT because I want to. I agree with the 100k maximum in spec life span. My replacement list is long due to lack of previous owner maintenance. I will swap out the up streams after my halfshaft swap. My pre OBD Fords and jeeps would average 80-120k miles before MIL would code O2 below spec. Post '95 OBD ones lasted longer, go figure.
06-13-15, 05:41 AM
#542
Strutmasters
finally had enough of fooling with the air suspension in the rear....strutmasters coil springs are being installed!! with 237K and the being the original owner I expect another 100K out of this vehicle and now that I don't have to worry about the back end....what a relief!!!
06-13-15, 08:32 PM
#543
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NJ
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Hey everyone. Was a CL member at least 10 years ago,don't even remember my old SN (and my old email address is long gone),something like "lexustech" since they were my employer back then.
Anyway on to the GX...
Accomplished today:
Tomorrow:
Anyway on to the GX...
Accomplished today:
- Replaced air filter with a Spectre Performance filter,similar to a K&N but synthetic material
- Replaced cabin filter with a Purolator replacement
- Replaced rusted out and leaking original rear shocks with Edelbrock IAS VS3
Tomorrow:
- Front wipers
- Front struts - Edelbrock IAS VS3 with the original springs
- Rear brakes (if I still have the energy and drive after doing the struts LOL) - EBC Greenstuff with new rotors
06-14-15, 05:54 AM
#544
So you get 17 mpg on old o2 sensors and that is enough to tell me your o2 sensors must be good, and also that I am probably not familiar with how a air fuel sensor works. Thats some pretty good diagnostic skills there buddy, your evidence is um, well subjective.
I could bore you guys for days about the difference between narrowband o2 sensors and the newer wideband air fuel ratio sensors. I am fully aware of all the technical differences between the 2, and if you were too you would realize they are made out of essentially the same sensor but one has a gas pump to stabilize the output voltage so it doesn't switch like the older ones. this in no way makes the o2 sensor last longer, if anything it would last the same or less time due to the continuous output vs switching.
air fuel sensors do not have a longer life expectancy than 100k, and to be honest they go weak after 70-80k but no one changes them then. technically its supossed to be done with the timing belt and that varies from 60-120k depending on how much the person cares and what the car calls for.
and I never said they wouldn't work at 150k, they just aren't working efficiently like a new one would.
please keep your old sensors if it makes you happy, try 200k since you guys don't think they don't wear out like a normal sensor, heck maybe even push 300k, cause it works 100% until the light comes on right?? (not really though).
the recommended interval is still 100k no matter what your scanner tells you which has a really basic trip detection logic where the sensor must basically be inoperable to throw the code.
as the sensor wears out the output voltage will decrease until eventually it bottoms out the ecu's trip detection logic. emphasis on eventually.
Let use a beer analogy. lets say if you drink 10 beers you are drunk.
what happens when you have drank 9 beers? would you say you are just as efficient as when you had no beers in your system? if you did it would be hard to believe cause after one more beer you would be drunk.
you can technically say you are not drunk though, but you can't say you are operating with 100% efficiency.
I could bore you guys for days about the difference between narrowband o2 sensors and the newer wideband air fuel ratio sensors. I am fully aware of all the technical differences between the 2, and if you were too you would realize they are made out of essentially the same sensor but one has a gas pump to stabilize the output voltage so it doesn't switch like the older ones. this in no way makes the o2 sensor last longer, if anything it would last the same or less time due to the continuous output vs switching.
air fuel sensors do not have a longer life expectancy than 100k, and to be honest they go weak after 70-80k but no one changes them then. technically its supossed to be done with the timing belt and that varies from 60-120k depending on how much the person cares and what the car calls for.
and I never said they wouldn't work at 150k, they just aren't working efficiently like a new one would.
please keep your old sensors if it makes you happy, try 200k since you guys don't think they don't wear out like a normal sensor, heck maybe even push 300k, cause it works 100% until the light comes on right?? (not really though).
the recommended interval is still 100k no matter what your scanner tells you which has a really basic trip detection logic where the sensor must basically be inoperable to throw the code.
as the sensor wears out the output voltage will decrease until eventually it bottoms out the ecu's trip detection logic. emphasis on eventually.
Let use a beer analogy. lets say if you drink 10 beers you are drunk.
what happens when you have drank 9 beers? would you say you are just as efficient as when you had no beers in your system? if you did it would be hard to believe cause after one more beer you would be drunk.
you can technically say you are not drunk though, but you can't say you are operating with 100% efficiency.
Last edited by BlackCat81; 06-14-15 at 06:03 AM.
06-18-15, 03:15 PM
#549
08-05-15, 09:47 PM
#551
I changed the front brakes today.
The pads were what one might call totally shot. I've driven German cars for so many years I was waiting for a sensor to go off to tell me the brakes were approaching the limits. Driving the truck the other day I experienced some fade and warped rotor sensation. Time to change!
Getting to it.
Brembo parts (rotors and pads).
OMG worn out pads.
Easy job. A bit time consuming, its all the prep and cleanup involved in home wrenching. Rotors took a lot of brute force to come off. I suspect they were OEM and never removed (83k!).
Pads and rotors from Autohaus AZ (no affiliation) @ $170 shipped free to my door
Time to get to the rears next week.
The pads were what one might call totally shot. I've driven German cars for so many years I was waiting for a sensor to go off to tell me the brakes were approaching the limits. Driving the truck the other day I experienced some fade and warped rotor sensation. Time to change!
Getting to it.
Brembo parts (rotors and pads).
OMG worn out pads.
Easy job. A bit time consuming, its all the prep and cleanup involved in home wrenching. Rotors took a lot of brute force to come off. I suspect they were OEM and never removed (83k!).
Pads and rotors from Autohaus AZ (no affiliation) @ $170 shipped free to my door
Time to get to the rears next week.
Last edited by Lumbergh; 08-13-15 at 07:57 AM.
08-09-15, 06:33 PM
#554
Put in some Amsoil Dominator® Coolant Boost and did a "drain and fill" on the PS reservoir w/ Amsoil ATF. It still is pretty dirty so I'll do that a few more times until it starts looking red again.
08-13-15, 07:48 AM
#555
Changed rear brakes (rotors and pads).
Could not find a detailed write up like is available for the excellent ones out there for the front, so I watched a few youtubes on 4runner rears.
Changing GX470 Rear brakes and rotors:
Jack truck and remove wheel.
Remove 2 x 17mm piston assy retaining pin/bolts ("cylinder slide pin" - Toyota term)
Lift out piston assy and support, use "c" clamp to compress piston to full retract
Pull out pads, remove old shims and clean shims
Remove 2 x 17mm bolts retaining "brake cylinder mounting" (Toyota term) and remove mount
Remove rotor (a little PB blaster on center and some knocks with 5lb sledge helps here, e-brake must be off (obviously)
Clean hub and apply some anti-seize to hub - rotor contact area
Install new rotor (just slides on)
Replace mounting clips supplied with brake kit with new on "brake cylinder mounting"
Reinstall "brake cylinder mounting" and 2 x 17mm bolts
Install shims on pads, make sure to use desired anti-squeal on back side of shims
Install new pads (l/r)
Reinstall piston assy ("disc brake cylinder assembly" {Toyota term}) [2 x 17mm bolts/pins] (Clean and Lube these bolts prior to reinstall with desired grease)
Reinstall wheel and lower truck.
Clean up.
Easy job, 2 hours working slowly. Could be done faster, especially if you have a lift.
I used Brembo pads and rotors from Autohaus AZ (my go to web parts retailer - no affiliation). $130 shipped free to my door for rotors x2 and pad kit
Could not find a detailed write up like is available for the excellent ones out there for the front, so I watched a few youtubes on 4runner rears.
Changing GX470 Rear brakes and rotors:
Jack truck and remove wheel.
Remove 2 x 17mm piston assy retaining pin/bolts ("cylinder slide pin" - Toyota term)
Lift out piston assy and support, use "c" clamp to compress piston to full retract
Pull out pads, remove old shims and clean shims
Remove 2 x 17mm bolts retaining "brake cylinder mounting" (Toyota term) and remove mount
Remove rotor (a little PB blaster on center and some knocks with 5lb sledge helps here, e-brake must be off (obviously)
Clean hub and apply some anti-seize to hub - rotor contact area
Install new rotor (just slides on)
Replace mounting clips supplied with brake kit with new on "brake cylinder mounting"
Reinstall "brake cylinder mounting" and 2 x 17mm bolts
Install shims on pads, make sure to use desired anti-squeal on back side of shims
Install new pads (l/r)
Reinstall piston assy ("disc brake cylinder assembly" {Toyota term}) [2 x 17mm bolts/pins] (Clean and Lube these bolts prior to reinstall with desired grease)
Reinstall wheel and lower truck.
Clean up.
Easy job, 2 hours working slowly. Could be done faster, especially if you have a lift.
I used Brembo pads and rotors from Autohaus AZ (my go to web parts retailer - no affiliation). $130 shipped free to my door for rotors x2 and pad kit
Last edited by Lumbergh; 08-13-15 at 08:00 AM.