burny

That would be about $60 per drain and fill. That seems reasonable, but I'll get my hands dirty to save that $180

Wronglane

I agree,I told my wife if you cannot do it and you need it done,the price is not bad,but,like yourself,the money you save can go toward something else.......like bills.

Wronglane

Did the transfer case tonight.That was easy. No pump was necessary.

Wronglane

Quick update. The day after changing the fluids,I checked for leaks and noticed that the front differential fill bolt was leaking a bit. I did changed all the gaskets/crush washers. Every plug was torqued to specs with the front drain plug at 48 ft lbs and the fill plug to 29 ft lbs.

I simply tightened it more using a 3/8 " ratchet.. I did not use a torque wrench this time. I can say that taking it off for the fill,it was way tighter than 29 ft lbs judging from the amount of force I had to use taking it off.

No leaks!

burny

I never torque these bolts to specs. I just go by feel just like I do with oil drain bolt or any other bolt on the vehicle.

Wronglane

I,also have never torqued an oil drain plug on any vehicle.

Update on Lexus price for fluid change on front and rear differentials,and also,the transfer case.

Toyota of Morristown..........$250.00

Tri-County Lexus................$325.00

TyneeGX

I just changed the fluid in all 3 cases last weekend. Very basic procedure, easy to follow, just make sure you have the right sockets and clearance for a breaker bar. My rear case had limited clearance, my breaker bar wouldn't fit. Luckily, the bolt was so loose, my rachet got it off without any effort.
Side note, you may want to just do this procedure if you are on the fence. Reason being, some of my bolts were much looser than i thought they should be. Just over finger tight. My truck has 120,000 miles, and all the fluid came out dark brown and smelled bad. And I can't smell very well (been sprayed by a skunk twice, couldn't tell). The truck had led an easy life up to 100,000. All maintenance done at dealer, driven by a guys wife in flat Texas, etc.
Also, make it easy on yourself, and get a set of 4 wheel ramps from an auto parts store. Sure beats jacking up each corner of the truck.

ok, on to drive shaft lube...

burtoncr

The center differential is a Torsen which is an LSD.

IanB2

Yup, but it's not in the front or rear axle, which is what we were discussing. The Torsen unit is an electronically controlled diff as well, not mechanical, and as such does not require any special gear oils or additives for the LSD to properly function.

I jack mine up from the front crossmember, and the rear diff, whole front/rear at the same time. Why would you jack up each corner individually? Where would you place the jackstand, as you'd already have a jack in the spot I'd want the jackstand to go.

burtoncr

Not to belabor this further, but a Torsen diff is mechanical and works off friction. It's just not a clutch pack diff. Additives aka friction modifiers change the characteristics of how a diff operates, ie when it locks up, by changing the coefficient of friction. Many Torsens use friction modifiers in their oils (Audi, Subaru). The short of it is: if Toyota designed the Torsen to require friction modifiers then it would say in the maintenance manual (and probably the user manual as well) or it would imply it by requiring a very specific Toyota oil which I don't think it does.

IanB2

My response should have read "purely mechanical", the context of the original comment remains that we were discussing F&R diffs for the purposes of what gear oil was appropriate.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the torsen is purely mechanical and mainly gear operated (planetary sun gears), so you can put any of the types of oils in it. the only thing electronic is actually separate on the black box that moves a secondary shift rail that moves the sleeve for center lock over the center diff lock gear. if you open one up you can see the holes for where the second main shift rail normally goes, like say on a 6 speed fj cruiser it has the same exact housing as our transfer cases but uses 2 main shift rails and no secondary rails on an electronic black box, so everything is controlled via one physical lever.

here I am referring to the primary shift rails as the thick metal ones that run in the normal place on the top of the box, a shifter normally mounts to the end of this.
the secondary ones I am referring to are black and plastic type rail that comes out of the end of the electronic box and is actuated by the box when you push the button or dial.

4runner v8 limited with torsen = 2 secondary rails on the black box: one for high/low via round dial on the dash, one for center lock actuated by button on console.
gx470 = one primary rail shifter actuated for high/low, and secondary rail on black box for center lock activated via button on console.
fj cruiser 6spd = 2 primary rails that are lever actuated for high low and center lock. there are no electronic buttons or dials on this one.

the fj cruiser is the most reliable one because it has no "black box" or electronics so it has no o-ring that can leak.
only thing it has are sensors to tell the lights on the dash and ecu when you are in the different modes, which all the cases have on the side on the top.

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

I don't think the diff changes are in lexus maintenance program?
Because I checked the service records I don't see any of these cars have them done unless it was for a leak. Same for my IS and SC they don't seem to have it listed and run in the rear end forever until someone like us come along.

The rear diff plugs doesn't look like it had been touched at all.
Bad for use owners who bought the truck 100k+ most of them still had the original fluid in them.

By the way, is 75W90 OK to use in the diffs because the manual says 85W90 or SAE 90
The transfer case calls for 75W90 though so can I just buy as many quarts of Redline MT90 75W90 and fill all 3 cases?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the long complicated answer internet warriors will give you about what the manual says is that you have to use whats in the manual which isn't really available (an not even actually followed by many toyota techs)...
the rest of us use a good 75w90 in all 3. some people say 75-140 or the 80/90w90 (you could go crazy with all the different recommendations lol). the 140 would be for the rear end if you have some kind of locker or offroad alot as its thicker etc... but it doesn't dissipate heat as well as the other stuff for lets say alot of road cruising (most GX's fall into this category). look it up lots of info on 4runner forums search gear oil weight and 4runner or tundra. they all use the same diffs front and rear, only difference is our transfer case has a torsen center diff in it, but everyone uses 75w90 for the T-case anyways so not even that difference matters much. I put some Royal purple in my T-case cause it was on sale... otherwise any quality synthetic in the transfer case should do in that weight.

I know I used to use off the shelf no name brand 75w90 in my 85 toyota pickup axles, well because its not the kind of truck you splurge on, and it worked flawlessly even in freezing temps.
Short of the diff running completely dry, or adding enough stress to it via supercharger or lockers... they are pretty hard to damage. just make sure it has some type of fluid in it at all times, and no water, water = bad. if you go through a small river or stream its time to do a drain and refill, even if the fluid was newish.

08gx470v8

You guys made this too easy. Thanks!