Disable Tire Pressure Sensors?
06-20-16, 05:36 AM
#46
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Don't just stick the ground wire under the existing nut, ADD a nut and put your ground wire between the two nuts. I tried to ground under the existing nut and did not get
a good ground at first.
a good ground at first.
06-20-16, 10:01 AM
#47
06-22-16, 08:14 AM
#50
Can someone post a pic of screw location where it's grounded to? I tried to ground it to the screw directly ahead, surrounded by white plastic. Yes, I added a nut. No workie!!
There are 3 possible screw locations facing the firewall that I can see. One far left surrounded by white plastic, one directly in the middle surrounded by white plastic, and one far right with metal box/bracket attached. Which one?
There are 3 possible screw locations facing the firewall that I can see. One far left surrounded by white plastic, one directly in the middle surrounded by white plastic, and one far right with metal box/bracket attached. Which one?
Last edited by NTH; 06-22-16 at 08:18 AM.
06-23-16, 07:28 AM
#51
Update....I attempted this mod again yesterday. I've come to conclude that this mod will not work on 07 (and newer?). Yes, I cut the blue wire, and grounded the correct end but regardless what I tried, the light remained on. Oh well 
06-23-16, 10:00 AM
#54
Lol! No I'm not color blind.
Ok after you snip the blue wire, half is attached to the white connector and half is in the wire loom. I've tried grounding both ends but no dice.
What I observed after cutting the wire was flashing then went steady.
Do you reconnect the white connector back to the TPMS box after grounding?
Ok after you snip the blue wire, half is attached to the white connector and half is in the wire loom. I've tried grounding both ends but no dice.
What I observed after cutting the wire was flashing then went steady.
Do you reconnect the white connector back to the TPMS box after grounding?
06-24-16, 02:13 AM
#55
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put the plug back in the box the way it was
the fact that the light is on steady means you're on the right path
you obviously aren't successfully grounding the wire that leads to
the harness
the fact that the light is on steady means you're on the right path
you obviously aren't successfully grounding the wire that leads to
the harness
06-25-16, 01:43 PM
#56
When i cut the blue wire and strip the end, i can disable the light by just touching it to the fully metal screw (of course i had to amend another wire to the end because it was too short) The only problem i can imagine is the grounding load is not making a good contact.
06-26-16, 07:13 AM
#57
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Here are my previous instructions:
Use a snap clamp and fabricate a ground lead wire with a loop connector. Place both wires in the crimper and squeeze it closed. Take the new ground wire and touch it to the threaded stud nearby. Do this while the key is in the on position. You can actually watch the indicator light go out if it's a good ground. Note that after you cut the wire the light will stay steadily on and not blink. That way you know you cut the right wire. If the light still blinks you may have cut the wrong one.
Now listen up guys. Listen UP!!!!!
1 - OK so you've cut the blue wire, good.
2 - Peel back some of the tape on the harness so you can have about an inch
or two of the blue wire free to work with.
3 - Put the box and white plug with all the wires back together.
4 - Go to the auto parts store and find the electrical aisle. (Bring your 10 year old daughter with you so she can help you with her formative shopping skills. Maybe just send her into the store alone because from what I've been reading I think she'll be more successful at the WHOLE task at hand.)
5 - Buy the smallest amount of wire (save money) with the fewest amount of strands in it you can find for use in automobile wiring.
6 - Don't leave the store yet. Buy a small box of connectors that can connect to the wire you just selected a few moments ago. The connector should be the type that is round and flat with a hole (AN EYELET) that can be put on the threaded post at the fire wall under the glove box. This connector should have a vinyl coated stem where the wire is inserted and smashed (gently smashed) with a hammer on the sidewalk to affix the wire and connector firmly together.
7 - Don't leave the store yet. Have your daughter grab some connectors which can accommodate two wires inserted (WITHOUT EVEN STRIPPING THE WIRES - wow, amazing stuff, huh?) and a little metal guillotine that is squeezed with a pair of pliers to connect the metal strands inside the wires. These connectors should also have an exterior "door" that is then closed (snapped) over the completed crimping.
8 - Buy or shoplift the items you daughter has procured in the electrical aisle.
9 - Drive home. Use the GPS if you forgot where home is.
10 - Don't be offended by my reference to your 10 year old daughter. From what I've read you should never have attempted this modification.
11 - Now that you're home, cut off a 14 inch piece of the wire you bought and strip
one half inch of the coating off at one end. Twist the bare strands so they can be inserted into one of the eyelet connectors you just bought (or stole). Lay the assembled wire and eyelet down on the driveway and give it a firm smack with a hammer to crimp the vinyl section of the eyelet onto the 14 inch piece of wire. If done properly you have now fabricated a wire that can be used to ground the circuit.
12 - OK, now, crawl under the glove-box with the ground wire you've fabricated and one of the guillotine connectors your daughter picked out for you. Place both the UNSTRIPPED end of the ground wire and the UNSTRIPPED blue wire from the harness into the guillotine connector and crimp it so as to connect the two wires. Snap closed the little "door" on the connector. Place the eyelet end of the fabricated ground wire on the threaded stud nearby and the light will permanently go OUT (turn the ignition key to the "on" position without starting the car for this test).
You'll need a nut the same size as the one on the stud to sandwich the eyelet and obtain a good ground. The nut is metric, so take it off and go to a hardware store and have your daughter go in to the hardware store and buy one the same size.
Go home (GPS again) and affix the original nut on the stud the way it was. Put the eyelet on the stud. Put the new nut on top of the eyelet and tighten it onto the stud. Put the cover back on under the glove-box and take your daughter out for ice cream. She deserves it. No ice cream for you.
13 - Thank me.
Use a snap clamp and fabricate a ground lead wire with a loop connector. Place both wires in the crimper and squeeze it closed. Take the new ground wire and touch it to the threaded stud nearby. Do this while the key is in the on position. You can actually watch the indicator light go out if it's a good ground. Note that after you cut the wire the light will stay steadily on and not blink. That way you know you cut the right wire. If the light still blinks you may have cut the wrong one.
Now listen up guys. Listen UP!!!!!
1 - OK so you've cut the blue wire, good.
2 - Peel back some of the tape on the harness so you can have about an inch
or two of the blue wire free to work with.
3 - Put the box and white plug with all the wires back together.
4 - Go to the auto parts store and find the electrical aisle. (Bring your 10 year old daughter with you so she can help you with her formative shopping skills. Maybe just send her into the store alone because from what I've been reading I think she'll be more successful at the WHOLE task at hand.)
5 - Buy the smallest amount of wire (save money) with the fewest amount of strands in it you can find for use in automobile wiring.
6 - Don't leave the store yet. Buy a small box of connectors that can connect to the wire you just selected a few moments ago. The connector should be the type that is round and flat with a hole (AN EYELET) that can be put on the threaded post at the fire wall under the glove box. This connector should have a vinyl coated stem where the wire is inserted and smashed (gently smashed) with a hammer on the sidewalk to affix the wire and connector firmly together.
7 - Don't leave the store yet. Have your daughter grab some connectors which can accommodate two wires inserted (WITHOUT EVEN STRIPPING THE WIRES - wow, amazing stuff, huh?) and a little metal guillotine that is squeezed with a pair of pliers to connect the metal strands inside the wires. These connectors should also have an exterior "door" that is then closed (snapped) over the completed crimping.
8 - Buy or shoplift the items you daughter has procured in the electrical aisle.
9 - Drive home. Use the GPS if you forgot where home is.
10 - Don't be offended by my reference to your 10 year old daughter. From what I've read you should never have attempted this modification.
11 - Now that you're home, cut off a 14 inch piece of the wire you bought and strip
one half inch of the coating off at one end. Twist the bare strands so they can be inserted into one of the eyelet connectors you just bought (or stole). Lay the assembled wire and eyelet down on the driveway and give it a firm smack with a hammer to crimp the vinyl section of the eyelet onto the 14 inch piece of wire. If done properly you have now fabricated a wire that can be used to ground the circuit.
12 - OK, now, crawl under the glove-box with the ground wire you've fabricated and one of the guillotine connectors your daughter picked out for you. Place both the UNSTRIPPED end of the ground wire and the UNSTRIPPED blue wire from the harness into the guillotine connector and crimp it so as to connect the two wires. Snap closed the little "door" on the connector. Place the eyelet end of the fabricated ground wire on the threaded stud nearby and the light will permanently go OUT (turn the ignition key to the "on" position without starting the car for this test).
You'll need a nut the same size as the one on the stud to sandwich the eyelet and obtain a good ground. The nut is metric, so take it off and go to a hardware store and have your daughter go in to the hardware store and buy one the same size.
Go home (GPS again) and affix the original nut on the stud the way it was. Put the eyelet on the stud. Put the new nut on top of the eyelet and tighten it onto the stud. Put the cover back on under the glove-box and take your daughter out for ice cream. She deserves it. No ice cream for you.
13 - Thank me.
07-14-16, 05:15 PM
#58
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Thanks all. This worked perfectly on my 2006 GX470. I spliced a piece of wire to the grounding nut referenced above and connected with a loop connector. After removing the nut, I added a washer then the loop connector before replacing the nut. Worked first time.
07-15-16, 04:56 AM
#59
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OK Slatts, nice going. The washer's a good idea as well, provides an all metal environment. My concern is the plastic washer is a little convex and may not
enable an adequate electrical connection. That stud (if you used the same one I did)
is for securing hardware (Hence the plastic washer) and not for circuitry. That's why
I went with a second nut to prevent the possibility of arching interruption. If you ever see the light come back on, that may be the culprit. Nonetheless, thanks for writing. When you get new tires, switch the valves over to conventional rubber ones because the TPMS stems have rubber rings OUTSIDE the stems which will dry-rot and eventually, and ever so slowly, begin to seep air. (Yet another problem with the sensors (besides the internal battery dying).
enable an adequate electrical connection. That stud (if you used the same one I did)
is for securing hardware (Hence the plastic washer) and not for circuitry. That's why
I went with a second nut to prevent the possibility of arching interruption. If you ever see the light come back on, that may be the culprit. Nonetheless, thanks for writing. When you get new tires, switch the valves over to conventional rubber ones because the TPMS stems have rubber rings OUTSIDE the stems which will dry-rot and eventually, and ever so slowly, begin to seep air. (Yet another problem with the sensors (besides the internal battery dying).
09-18-16, 08:59 PM
#60
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2007 GX470 TPMS Disable
OK Slatts, nice going. The washer's a good idea as well, provides an all metal environment. My concern is the plastic washer is a little convex and may not
enable an adequate electrical connection. That stud (if you used the same one I did)
is for securing hardware (Hence the plastic washer) and not for circuitry. That's why
I went with a second nut to prevent the possibility of arching interruption. If you ever see the light come back on, that may be the culprit. Nonetheless, thanks for writing. When you get new tires, switch the valves over to conventional rubber ones because the TPMS stems have rubber rings OUTSIDE the stems which will dry-rot and eventually, and ever so slowly, begin to seep air. (Yet another problem with the sensors (besides the internal battery dying).
enable an adequate electrical connection. That stud (if you used the same one I did)
is for securing hardware (Hence the plastic washer) and not for circuitry. That's why
I went with a second nut to prevent the possibility of arching interruption. If you ever see the light come back on, that may be the culprit. Nonetheless, thanks for writing. When you get new tires, switch the valves over to conventional rubber ones because the TPMS stems have rubber rings OUTSIDE the stems which will dry-rot and eventually, and ever so slowly, begin to seep air. (Yet another problem with the sensors (besides the internal battery dying).